Sailing Norway

[dustysheehan]

Hi all,



I’m putting together a rough itinerary for next sailing season - onboard my 31 footer, which is wintered in Stockholm. I’ve seen lots of good things about Norway and would like to spend the 2022 season exploring the fjords around Bergen and then sailing up to the Lofoten islands, likely leaving the boat in that area for the winter of 2022-23 and then using the following 2023 season to meander back south.



My question for the group: How difficult would you expect the sailing to be, particularly the portion from Bergen north to the Lofoten Islands? I understand this section has minimal islands / skerries to provide protection from Atlantic swell and, with the wind primarily being onshore northerlies, things can get ugly. Is it just a matter of picking a good weather window or is it likely to be tough going regardless of the weather conditions?



Thanks for any help you can give me. Many thanks.

 

[jdc]

It depends so much on the boat, but we found sailing in Norway pretty enjoyable. You just have to be a bit patient and wait for the forecast which suits:the inside passage (inside the skerries) is pretty essential. There are only a few headlands which can't be bypassed. Once N of Kristiansund (note the U, not A) it's all inside the skerries as far as (and beyond) Lofoten.

 

[shaunksb]

. Once N of Kristiansund (note the U, not A) it's all inside the skerries as far as (and beyond) Lofoten.

We did this (spectacular) trip in about a week albeit in a Discovery 55 with a couple fo over nighters but there was nothing my lightweight 30’ er couldn‘t have handled. The weather can change quite quickly, you need to be prepared to break cover even for only half days and particulary as you get further north towards Bodo there are plenty of sheltered harbours and anchorages you can sit out a 12 hour blow.

As said you just need to be a little patient and you will be extremely well rewarded.

_______________________

 

[Sybarite]

Sailing Uma did that recently. They have lots of videos on Youtube.

 

[Paul HD]

Hi all,



I’m putting together a rough itinerary for next sailing season - onboard my 31 footer, which is wintered in Stockholm. I’ve seen lots of good things about Norway and would like to spend the 2022 season exploring the fjords around Bergen and then sailing up to the Lofoten islands, likely leaving the boat in that area for the winter of 2022-23 and then using the following 2023 season to meander back south.



My question for the group: How difficult would you expect the sailing to be, particularly the portion from Bergen north to the Lofoten Islands? I understand this section has minimal islands / skerries to provide protection from Atlantic swell and, with the wind primarily being onshore northerlies, things can get ugly. Is it just a matter of picking a good weather window or is it likely to be tough going regardless of the weather conditions?



Thanks for any help you can give me. Many thanks.

Here is a great channel to watch. It may be a source of useful info. Jarle is a great guy and very helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdAuOl7cpIQX6L9YsahzVpA

 

[TrondS]

There are a few places to be aware of when boating in Norway. All are mentioned in the coastal pilot guide (Den norske los) online here: Farvannsbeskrivelsen Den norske los (kartverket.no)

Coming around the coast from the south, you have the Lindesnes (south point), then Lista and the long stretch of Jæren, with few places to seek shelter. My rule of thumb for Lista and Jæren is to follow roughly the 200 meter depth curve, or go even further out, to avoid the often confused seas closer to land. From Stavanger and all the way north to Stad, you can sail inshore in the fjords. Further north you can sail inshore parts of the way.
Wait for a good weather window to sail around Lista and Stad!
Next area to be aware of is Hustadvika (Where the cruise ship Viking sky got into trouble a few years ago).

Here is a link to a website with nautical maps (sjøkart), regular map (kart), aerial photos (flyfoto or hybrid) of all Norway. I have marked a good route from right north of Stavanger to Bergen, and from Bergen to Stad. I have used these routes many times myself, but haven't any personal experience further north.
The numbered points are areas where you want a good weather window to cross. (zoom in to see the details)

Gule Sider® Kart

Charts in Norway are generally very accurate. But notice that the soundings up north can be old and make the charts a little less accurate. A lot of lighthouses has got an update with new sectors last couple years, so updated charts is an advantage.

 

[KenF]

Note that the chart above (gule sider kart) is quite out of date wrt to harbours, marinas and bridges, at least in my neck of the woods - Ryfllke, Stavanger area. Looks good for navigation though (zoom in to get bridge clearance heights). There is an amphodromic point between Tananger and Egersund (Jaeren) so tidal fluctuations are very small.

Also for anybody rounding exposed Lindesnes (from KritiansAnd to Stavanger/Bergen say), a permanent northerly tidal set (flowing N) and a N'ish wind can make for very interesting (!) conditions.

 

[TrondS]

Note that the chart above (gule sider kart) is quite out of date wrt to harbours, marinas and bridges, at least in my neck of the woods - Ryfllke, Stavanger area. Looks good for navigation though (zoom in to get bridge clearance heights).

The charts should be up to date for navigation, including bridges. But I agree that all harbors and marinas are not marked on the charts.
The aerial photos can be old in some areas.

 

[temptress]

Hi all,



I’m putting together a rough itinerary for next sailing season - onboard my 31 footer, which is wintered in Stockholm. I’ve seen lots of good things about Norway and would like to spend the 2022 season exploring the fjords around Bergen and then sailing up to the Lofoten islands, likely leaving the boat in that area for the winter of 2022-23 and then using the following 2023 season to meander back south.



My question for the group: How difficult would you expect the sailing to be, particularly the portion from Bergen north to the Lofoten Islands? I understand this section has minimal islands / skerries to provide protection from Atlantic swell and, with the wind primarily being onshore northerlies, things can get ugly. Is it just a matter of picking a good weather window or is it likely to be tough going regardless of the weather conditions?



Thanks for any help you can give me. Many thanks.

It is some years ago now but I sailed my Sigma 362 from OSLO to Lofoten and back in 92 (or was it 91?).... It's a long way and a short season up there. Especially in a 31 footer. as there are sooo many places to see before you get there.

I'd maybe think spliting the trip into 3 legs over 3 years:

Year 1 Bergan and area,
Year 2 Lofoten and back south,
Year 3 more exploring on the way home.

 

[jdc]

Our passage through the northern half was more of a rushed trip N->S before it got too late in the season, but I concur with Temptress that you could very happily spend a couple of years cruising there. The Norwegian electronic raster charts seemed very accurate (more than, at that time, I could say for Navionics).

 

[srm]

Bergen north to the Lofoten Islands? I understand this section has minimal islands / skerries to provide protection from Atlantic swell a

A good start would be to buy a set of small scale passage charts to get an overview. Around 95% plus of your passage can be inside the islands.

Sailing is good inside the islands, much like being on a large lake. Navigation is by eyeball with well marked channels. Unless there is a frontal system going through you will often be sailing on the sea breeze in the summer. Calm mornings, wind starting around 11 pm increasing to around 4 pm then dying down into the evening. When wanting to make distance along the coast we often started early in the morning and motored in a calm until the wind picked up.
Similar wind patterns in the fjords so sail in during the afternoon, spend the night in calm conditions and motor out before the wind picks up unless you enjoy short tacking.
I have got caught out a few times at anchor with a night breeze blowing out of valleys.
Katabatic (falling) winds when near high land and steep cliffs can be entertaining, flat calms interrupted by gale force blasts. Norwegians treat them with great respect.

To my mind the best cruising ground. I ran a charter yacht on the west coast for 5 years, mainly north of Bergen plus a few seasons just cruising. Don't try to do too much in one go. Sail close to the edges of the channels and enjoy the scenery, you won't see all that much out in the middle of the main sounds.

The large scale 1:50000 Norwegian charts are needed to find anchorages etc. small boat anchorages are marked on the charts. You can cross two or three charts in a day hence the smaller scale passage charts to avoid heading down dead ends and plan your route. Passage charts are still needed if using a chart plotter for the same reason. Anchorage guide books are obtainable in Norwegian bookshops, the main one was published by the lifeboat association.

Its well worth spending a few seasons on the coast and exploring the small, hidden anchorages and bays as well as the obvious tourist traps.

 

[TrondS]

A subscription to Harbour guide can be a good idea.
The app "uthavner" (android only, I believe) also shows a lot of anchorages.

Pay attention to the Norwegian COLREG rule #44:
Pleasure crafts less than 20 meter, and sailing vessels, shall not interfere with commercial traffic.

@srm has some good comments about winds and charts.

 

[Koeketiene]

Planning a cruise up there in a year or two.
Found this quite useful for planning purposes: The Norwegian Cruising Guide

 

[dustysheehan]

Thanks everyone for the lengthy feedback.

I hadn't appreciated just how much of my intended route can be done inside the islands and skerries - great to hear it's 90%+. I think that'll make things much easier. And some great resources with maps and such that will be a real help.


Thanks for the help!