Sailing in the Ionians - any advice for a first-timer?

In May the place will just be starting to wake up from hibernation. The flotillas will be starting to get their act together but will not yet be a real problem as they are later in the year. There are more places than you can shake a stick at to visit in the southern Ionian, all about 2 - 4 hours sailing apart, so it's almost a case of take a chart, blindfold yourself and stick a pin in - and go there and have a great time.

Hiekel is OK as a guide and the latest edition is more or less up to date but Sail Ionian will almost certainly have their yearbook or equivilent cruising notes. they might well send you a copy if you asked them so you could do some planing.

We're particulary fond of Kastos and Kalamos, both of which have some nice and not too expensive tavernas and bars. Ithica is also nice and in May should not be too overcrowded. Sivota is worth a visit and Poros on Kephalonia makes a nice change; get there early, get a seat in one of the bars on the hill and then watch the fun and games as late comers discover the little sandbar in the middle of the harbour......:rolleyes:

Have fun.
 
duncan99210 said:
In May the place will just be starting to wake up from hibernation. The flotillas will be starting to get their act together but will not yet be a real problem as they are later in the year. There are more places than you can shake a stick at to visit in the southern Ionian, all about 2 - 4 hours sailing apart, so it's almost a case of take a chart, blindfold yourself and stick a pin in - and go there and have a great time.

Hiekel is OK as a guide and the latest edition is more or less up to date but Sail Ionian will almost certainly have their yearbook or equivilent cruising notes. they might well send you a copy if you asked them so you could do some planing.

We're particulary fond of Kastos and Kalamos, both of which have some nice and not too expensive tavernas and bars. Ithica is also nice and in May should not be too overcrowded. Sivota is worth a visit and Poros on Kephalonia makes a nice change; get there early, get a seat in one of the bars on the hill and then watch the fun and games as late comers discover the little sandbar in the middle of the harbour......:rolleyes:

Have fun.
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Duncan,

Super advice - thanks very much.

I hope not to be the one finding the sandbar!

Enjoy your year afloat. Like the blog by the way...

Andy
 
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RichardS said:
Spartachori on Meganisi is well worth a visit. It's an uphill zigzag walk from the anchorage to the taverna in the village itself at the top of the hill but the views are superb. Watch the sun going down and think how lucky you are!

Richard
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Of course, you can always use the taverna on the beach at Port Spiglia and avoid the walk. Make sure you try the saganaki, both prawn and mussels.
If you are on a 'food tour' the cheese pies at Yannis in Sivota are also great and cheap. Really you can't go far wrong anywhere in the Southern Ionian and if you've never been, ignore the warnings about how busy Fiscardo is, it's worth getting in earlyish, no later than 2pm and spending the afternoon there. You can easily swim from there and the quayside tavernas are all worth a visit, just avoid the one where you have to walk around the harbour to the far
side, he's a rip-off. Enjoy.​
 
A fairly comprehensive guide to the area is at http://jimbsail.info/mediterranean/greece/inland-ionian, including a small map. There's plenty there about "must sees" and "avoids". And surprisingly, there are a few restaurants around which provide rather fine food - a little above Greek average prices, but well below UK prices! I had a great time hunting those down.
 
We did a Flotilla holiday there many years ago with our 2 eldest lads. It was b**** hot, but it was August.

Only cautionary advice that might be still valid, do make sure of the depth when you anchor, the water is so clear that you can see the bottom at 80ft. Our yachts had no sounders then, and although we did not have a problem we witnessed another yacht trying to anchor in water deeper than their chain. Entertained us for some time as they kept trying, thought they were dragging, pulled it all up and tried again. Eventually we were able to shout to them that they must get much nearer the beach.
 
AMCD300 said:
I've just booked a week's charter in the Ionians (lefkas) at the end of May. Can't wait :D

Not having sailed in this area before I would appreciate any advice regarding good ports-of-call, worthwhile Tavernas, places to avoid, nice anchorages etc.

I am chartering with Sail Ionian, based in Vilho bay on the Eastern side of the island. I know they will give me good advice but you lot have been around the block a bit and may be able to give me some nuggets too.

Thanks in anticipation.....

Andy
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Hi Andy,

I've chartered with Sail Ionian before and they couldn't have done more to make our time on board as enjoyable as possible. Neil, Di and the team are great.

Here's another vote for Spartakhori, it's just around the corner from where you'll meet the boat and makes for the perfect first night stop. It can get busy with flotillas but the chap who runs the pontoons and taverna knows what he's doing and is a great help when you're getting used to the boat.

Other recommendations would include the sea caves on the western side of Meganisi's "tail" or the southern tip of Levkas - they're an amazing spectacle.

Sivota is gorgeous with a sheltered, horse shoe-shaped quayside plus plenty of room to anchor in the middle of the port if you fancy it.

Vasiliki is one of Europe's hottest windsurfing spots and is therefore rather breezy at times! It has a great buzz in town, though, if you fancy that sort of thing and the scenery is spectacular.

Whatever you do it is a stunning place to spend time on a boat, enjoy!

Jack
 
Jim, would you mind if I corrected something.
Sami is a useful stop to visit either the (over-rated?) stalagmite decorated Droghorati Cave, or travel in a punt around the half drowned Mellissani Caves, both within 5km. Both can also easily be reached from Ay. Euphemia. Ferries to Killini, on the Peloponese.
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The ferry from Sami goes to Patras, also one goes to Astakos. The ferry to Killini goes from Poros.
 
Whiskey Bravo said:
if you've never been, ignore the warnings about how busy Fiscardo is, it's worth getting in earlyish, no later than 2pm and spending the afternoon there. You can easily swim from there and the quayside tavernas are all worth a visit, just avoid the one where you have to walk around the harbour to the far
side, he's a rip-off. Enjoy.​
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In Fiskhardo it's also well worth a walk out to the two lighthouses, the old Venetian one and the "modern" 18th century one. Views from there are great.

I'm currently planning to be in the Ionian for the last 3 weeks of May, but it's not set in stone yet.​
 
I agree Sail Ionian are very good. Shouldn't be too busy at that time of year, however the perennial problem in the Ionian is that the harbours start to fill up just as the wind gets good in the afternoon! So you can have a good sail or get a good berth for the night but it's difficult to do both when it's busy. I recommend that you get the hang of long-lining, it's not difficult and then you can have a good sail, get in late and anchor just outside with a long line to the shore. My top tip is in big Vathi (Ithaca) use the North Quay instead of the Town Quay, it's much quieter and Dmitri's Taverna has great cheese pie!
 
@wave22: I am happy with Med mooring, sailing mainly in the Med since learning to sail, but long lining is definately on my list of skills to master this time around - thanks for the tips.

@pipemma: IM sent

:)

Andy
 
I have sailed the South Ionian many times in the past (chartering). It does get busy in high season, but outside of July and August it really is not too bad. The thing that transformed it for us, was getting confident at anchoring off in the evenings. It just meant that we could rock up when we wanted, enjoy the afternoon winds and not stress about getting in to secure a space on the quay. The last company we charted with (Nisos Yacht Charter) fitted Rocna anchors and loads of chain which made it quite easy. As mentioned above make sure the boat you are chartering has at least 60m of chain on it so you have plenty of options open to you.

One boat we chartered many years ago out of Lefkas Town only had about 35m of chain (on a 37ft) and it was terrible. We couldn't anchor anywhere securely. It is the first thing I ask any charter company now - how much chain on the boat!?

If you are not confident anchoring off, get the charter company to give you some advice and even better a "crash course" in it when you arrive. There are certain techniques which really do make it easier if you know what they are!

There are so many lovely places to head for in the South Ionian. I personally would not bother heading up north through the canal. Here is a list of places to try and go to:

Desimini Bay on Lefkas (anchor off) - taverna on beach is great
Spartachori and Little Vathi on Meganissi
Kioni and Vathi on Ithica (can be windy in both of these!)
Fiscardo on Cephalonia
Kalamos and Port Leone on Kalamos
There is also a really good taverna called the Seaside in Geni,. You need to anchor off in Vhlio Bay and tender across to it. Well worth while. I think that is where Sailing Ionian base is (but on otherside of bay).

Not sure how many nights away you get from base, but there is more than enough there to keep you entertained. We have booked again for July and can't wait! We have been going there for the last 8 years and really do not want to try anywhere else.
 
calsdv said:
I have sailed the South Ionian many times in the past (chartering). It does get busy in high season, but outside of July and August it really is not too bad. The thing that transformed it for us, was getting confident at anchoring off in the evenings. It just meant that we could rock up when we wanted, enjoy the afternoon winds and not stress about getting in to secure a space on the quay. The last company we charted with (Nisos Yacht Charter) fitted Rocna anchors and loads of chain which made it quite easy. As mentioned above make sure the boat you are chartering has at least 60m of chain on it so you have plenty of options open to you.

One boat we chartered many years ago out of Lefkas Town only had about 35m of chain (on a 37ft) and it was terrible. We couldn't anchor anywhere securely. It is the first thing I ask any charter company now - how much chain on the boat!?

If you are not confident anchoring off, get the charter company to give you some advice and even better a "crash course" in it when you arrive. There are certain techniques which really do make it easier if you know what they are!

There are so many lovely places to head for in the South Ionian. I personally would not bother heading up north through the canal. Here is a list of places to try and go to:

Desimini Bay on Lefkas (anchor off) - taverna on beach is great
Spartachori and Little Vathi on Meganissi
Kioni and Vathi on Ithica (can be windy in both of these!)
Fiscardo on Cephalonia
Kalamos and Port Leone on Kalamos
There is also a really good taverna called the Seaside in Geni,. You need to anchor off in Vhlio Bay and tender across to it. Well worth while. I think that is where Sailing Ionian base is (but on otherside of bay).

Not sure how many nights away you get from base, but there is more than enough there to keep you entertained. We have booked again for July and can't wait! We have been going there for the last 8 years and really do not want to try anywhere else.
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Calsdv:

Thanks for the comprehensive reply - I will certainly ask the folks at Sail Ionian for anchoring advice, although strangely enough I seem to know more about med mooring and anchoring (having learnt to sail in the Med) than mooring alongside. I am looking forward to long-lining though - that will be a new one on me. As you say though, it will give me more (moor!) options should the berths be full.

We are going for a full week, but with some assisted skippering (to help settle the wife and kids in) I will only probably have 4 nights on my own. If it goes well, however, we are thinking about coming back later in the season.

Thanks again for the advice - I'm about to look through the pilot now...

Andy
 
Zen Zero said:
Be wary of mobos misbehaving, they do really stupid things and pretend not to understand why you're complaining. Best to stay calm (look who's talking) and be careful.
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Just for the record, this mobo "driver" has just finished sorting out the insurance claim for the 4,000 euro damage to my boat, caused by a badly behaving yachtie off Sivota Mourtos

Fairer advice would be "beware of other boats behaving badly". Most of the anti social behaviour in the Ionian is created by charter and flotilla yacht crews. I could could give endless examples.
 
mjcoon said:
Don't.
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Don't need to. Anybody who has spent any time there already knows, including the many yachties I count as friends.
In fairness, most of the problems come down to the charterer's unavoidable unfamiliarity with their boat and in the case of flotillas the flotilla leaders have a lot to answer for with their loud butlins style approach to engendering party "spirit".
I know several taverna owners who won't have them in, regardless of the extra revenue generated.
 
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