Sailing in the Ionians - any advice for a first-timer?

AMCD300

AMCD300

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I've just booked a week's charter in the Ionians (lefkas) at the end of May. Can't wait :D

Not having sailed in this area before I would appreciate any advice regarding good ports-of-call, worthwhile Tavernas, places to avoid, nice anchorages etc.

I am chartering with Sail Ionian, based in Vilho bay on the Eastern side of the island. I know they will give me good advice but you lot have been around the block a bit and may be able to give me some nuggets too.

Thanks in anticipation.....

Andy
 
I can't wait to get back to my boat that I left at Platarias last summer!

It's all fantastically beautiful.

Wind might be a problem there's usually either too much or none at all.

Ports tend to be rather informal affairs with no booking, whoever gets in first gets a place and it's €20 for water and power if you want it otherwise free. Anchorages are usually easy enough to find. Keep an eye on the wind, if you're in a sheltered place you might not notice that it's picked up.

Imray's North Ionan chart is good. Mine's on the boat so I can't tell you the ref no. I seem to remember it's got detailed maps of all the ports and shows where fuel is etc.

Don't get caught with fishing gear (rods or spearguns) you'll get a mighty fine, which you should pay without arguing (I honestly don't knw what happens if you argue, but if you don't argue it all passes off without drama). Foreigners are not allowed to fish from boats. You can apply for a licence to fish from the shore, but your boat will need to be a registered greek boat if you want to fish from it. Better just take an underwater camera and photograph the fish. You're chartering right, so ignore what I've just wrote. You can apply for a fish licence at the Port Captain's office.

Be wary of mobos misbehaving, they do really stupid things and pretend not to understand why you're complaining. Best to stay calm (look who's talking) and be careful.

I like Mythos beer but Alfa is also drinkable (blonde eurofizz really, but just the thing ice cold on a hot afternoon). I also drink retsina, but don't tell anyone!

Um ... doesn't really matter where you go. You're only there for a week, and a lifetime wouldn't really be long enough!
 
Zen Zero said:
Um ... doesn't really matter where you go. You're only there for a week, and a lifetime wouldn't really be long enough!
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That about sums it up. Loads of great lunchtime anchorages all over the place. Watch out for winds pouring down off the hills, but nothing much else to worry about. I thought Fiskardo was a bit commercial and hence crowded, but all the usual places to spend a night in a taverna are good in their own ways. As the man said, it's all good!
 
Zen Zero said:
I like Mythos beer but Alfa is also drinkable (blonde eurofizz really, but just the thing ice cold on a hot afternoon). I also drink retsina, but don't tell anyone!
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Retsina is an acquired taste, I imagine, since in decades of visiting Greece I have successfully avoided it!

"Fix" used to be the ethnic beer which vanished for years but has now reappeared. Not sure I can tell the difference between it, Mythos and Alfa.

Mike.
 
Never heard of needing a licence to fish and certainly never been asked for one. We sailed in the Agean all the way up to Corfu with a dirty great rod trawling off the back of the boat and have a small rod for harbours etc. Never a word been said by harbour masters or police plenty who have been around our boat. :confused::confused::confused:

Platarias is really nice, Paxos & Anti Paxos if you make it that far, Parga is OK but we prefer the bay next to it. So much to see and so many places to visit. Charter co. will be able to give you loads of options.

Niall
 
Abelike and Atheni at the north east of Meganisi are both delightful and there is a decent taverna at the latter. We also like Fiskado. It is much more lively than most other places but if you go stern to on the far side of the bay from the quay you get the best of both worlds.
 
Treat yourself to a copy of Rod Heikell's Ionian Pilot before you go as this will whet your appetite and give you lots of background information. As already suggested find out the route of the flotillas and avoid going to the same ports as them. If you are going in the UK half term school week at end of May you will find it very busy with family groups.

You have a choice of sticking in the Southern Ionian or going through the Levkas Canal north to Corfu, which will potentially give you more sailing, but is demanding in only a week. So best to stick to the South where there are more than enough good overnight stops comfortable day sails (well probably quite a bit of motoring) with lunchtime stopovers. probably not worth going south of Fiskardo but there are good harbours on all the islands and some on the mainland.

Enjoy!
 
That time of year won't be many mobos around, too early in the year for them! Biggest problem will be the hoards of flotilla boats being shepherded into harbours not quite big enough to take them all - usually with the added fun of a late afternoon cross wind! Usually good humoured though.
 
AMCD300 said:
Just like here in Italy then... :rolleyes:
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I get so angry with mobo drivers! (cue film of Yosemite Sam having a tantrum)



Hope you are keeping well ZZ - coming anywhere near Naples this year?
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I'm fine. Just getting fatter and fatter. I'd like to come to see something at the Teatro San Carlo before the end of the season, we'll see. By train rather than boat, me own boat is in Greece now, I managed to escape from Salerno, but won't be able to return for several seasons, at least not to the commercial harbour. I might be passing by on a delivery Fiumicino to Bari, possibly stopping at Procida, but more likely Ischia. We'll see!

How are you?
 
Spartachori on Meganisi is well worth a visit. It's an uphill zigzag walk from the anchorage to the taverna in the village itself at the top of the hill but the views are superb. Watch the sun going down and think how lucky you are!

Richard
 
Zen Zero said:
I might be passing by on a delivery Fiumicino to Bari, possibly stopping at Procida, but more likely Ischia. We'll see!

How are you?
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Great, thanks. Looking forward to getting out on the water again. Damn these Italians - fair weather sailors the lot of them...

If you are looking for somewhere to moor around Procida look at chiaiolella, around the other side of the island. I go there for lunch when day sailing and it is very agreeable. If there is 'no room at the inn' anywhere else it might be worth a shot.

Drop me a line if you know some dates and if I can get away from work it would be nice to meet for a prosecco etc....

Andy
 
RichardS said:
Spartachori on Meganisi is well worth a visit. It's an uphill zigzag walk from the anchorage to the taverna in the village itself at the top of the hill but the views are superb. Watch the sun going down and think how lucky you are!

Richard
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Thanks, Richard. I see the hill on the map...will probably need to stretch the legs out by then anyway. I could always get the kids to pull me up the hill - why have a dog and bark yourself, right?!

Thanks for the advice.
Andy
 
Very difficult to avoid the flotillas; there's just too many of em. However, many harbours have an anchorage just outside (check the pilot). As mentioned, Fiskardo is one of them and it's much nicer out there with a line to shore. If you want to use this tactic to avoid the crowds, you might want to book an outboard (if it doesn't come as standard).
 
SimonD said:
Very difficult to avoid the flotillas; there's just too many of em. However, many harbours have an anchorage just outside (check the pilot). As mentioned, Fiskardo is one of them and it's much nicer out there with a line to shore. If you want to use this tactic to avoid the crowds, you might want to book an outboard (if it doesn't come as standard).
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Understood - thanks
 
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