Saildrive Seized Screws/Nuts

[paulrae]

Problems never come along in ones, do they? I thought of posting this under an alias, as these are pretty trivial, but hey, I can take the prospective abuse.

Two troublesome nuts/screws on my saildrive - the prop and the oil drain.

Number 1: To replace the saildrive anode I've removed the folding prop and the locknut (on VP MD2030), easy peasy. The main nut which holds the hub onto the saildrive just won't budge. I've jammed the hub against the hull using a block of wood, but that didn't work. As I'm particularly talented at breaking kit using brute force and ignorance, and this is an expensive piece of kit, I'm keen not use that talent on this occasion. I've tried soaking with WD40, but to no avail. Could I use heat without damaging the saildrive internals?

Number 2: Should be dead easy. Trying to remove the oil drain screw in the saildrive leg, no joy. After removing old antifoul around contact areas, tried 'persuading' the crew to turn with reasonable taps on a hammer on the end of a large screwdriver held at a suitable angle, again to no avail.

Your collective experience would be much appreciated. I'm really reluctant to get a man in for something so trivial, /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. I may have to, though as we're going into the water two weeks on Friday /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[savageseadog]

The Yanmar nut is left hand thread, is Volvo?

Anything to do with screwdrivers , only top quality will do. Make sure you have Facom, Snap-On or whatever and absolutely the right size and type. expect to pay 5-20 pounds depending on size.

 

[tcm]

if it isn't lefthanded- the Final Solution nutwise is a nut-splitter. A decent ironmongers (probly not b+q) will have one. You need a new nut to hand cos the nut has had it, altho the thread should not be damaged.

*some* yanmar threads for prop are right handed? At least, i think they are on SD50?...

 

[paulrae]

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

It's not a LH thread, according to the manual - I've also tried tightening it a little to break any 'seal' before slackening off, again to no avail.

The 'nut' isn't just a typical nut, it's a Volvo nut, consisting of a long body to engage with the end of the splined drive shaft and a threaded centre for the locking bolt that screws into its centre, so I don't know how success a nut splitter would be /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks again.

 

[starboard]

For oil drain screw use a very large ended screw driver with square shaft.........put a shifter on the shaft close to the screw, that will give you extra purchase and that usually does it for me!!

 

[PeterGibbs]

Oil nut: It's a regular thread but you need a very wide bladed screwdriver to avoid scuffing the slot. Do it this way - get a grip or adjustable spanner and grip it on the screwdriver blade just close to the screw and apply maximum hand force, clockwise as you look up at it. It will take it.

I have seen a yard use a percussion screwdriver on this nut - it will take it, but I am a bit more hesitant myself! I have always had success with the above method. Sometimes a twist in the opposite direction helps to break the seal...

Use no heat under any circumstances! The seals will disappear, just for starters...

The cone hex nut requires a well made hex spanner into a fully cleared out opening to prevent skipping. Then a short length of pipe on the shaft of the hex spanner - that will move it. The Hex spanner will not like this, and will bend a bit - if it twists right round, you bought a dud spanner, a good one will not yield.

The cone itself needs a long spike with a pipe extension if necessary, applying anticlockwise pressure as you look at it. Again, a percussion spanner might be used, but I am hesitant!

PWG

 

[AIDY]

Ditto - Wide blade screw driver, with the ability to get some mole grips on the shaft for extra purchase.... right hand thread, normally takes 2 people for us one to put pressure on the screw and one to turn the mole grips.... if you damage it getting it out i'd replace the seal and the drain plug.

 

[Cantata]

[ QUOTE ]
Ditto - Wide blade screw driver, with the ability to get some mole grips on the shaft for extra purchase.... right hand thread, normally takes 2 people for us one to put pressure on the screw and one to turn the mole grips.... if you damage it getting it out i'd replace the seal and the drain plug.

[/ QUOTE ]
Ditto, got mine off the other day in a similar way plus the use of a trolley jack to put upwards force on the screwdriver. Happened to have the jack with me because we were taking the saildrive leg out to change the seal.
Why V-P couldn't have used a plug that you could use a spanner on, or an Allen key, is beyond me.