Saildrive rubber fairing - best glue?

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Slipperman

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Just replaced my saildrive seals/diaphragm and now need to finish the job by replacing the outer rubber fairing/streamlining. Would be interested in views on the best adhesive to use.
 
Slipperman said:
Just replaced my saildrive seals/diaphragm and now need to finish the job by replacing the outer rubber fairing/streamlining. Would be interested in views on the best adhesive to use.
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I used a two part epoxy similar to Araldite around 15 years ago and mine's still attached. I'm sure the other suggestions will also work but rough up the contact surface of the rubber first.
 
SERIOUS GLUE made by Evostik, available from Halfords for example. I've found it much better than the rubbery type glues that you coat both surfaces with. I've not lost a rubber fairing since using it.
 
Both the recommend Bostik glue and standard marine adhesive sealant work. The trick is in the application. You must sand both the hull (gelcoat) and the rubber, then wipe both clean with acetone. Apply enough adhesive so that when you slap the rubber on the hull, you can use a putty knife or roller to squeeze the adhesive all the way to the outside edges, then bevel it with your finger. I've used Sika, which has the advantage that it's easy to make a smooth edge that water can't work its way into to begin prying the thing off. Ours is still there after more than 2 years and 2000 miles.
 
I would caution against the use of acetone as a cleaning solvent fo this application - it can leave a slightly greasy residue that affects the adhesion of some adhesives.
Sand both surfaces with something like 120grit - you don't want to go too fine, the idea is to get a good key on the surfaces for the adhesive to bond to properly. If you have access to an airline then just blow the surfaces clean or use a dinghy pump. If you do want to use a cleaner then isopropanol alchol is probably the best choice as it leaves no residue.
Mask off the hull around where the fairing is going as accurately as possible, apply your chosen adhesive (I use Sikaflex type adhesive sealant) and apply the fairing, smooth out with a small paint roller or similar, do not press too hard you just want to get it nicely bedded in the adhesive NOT squeeze it all out!! Clean off any surlus around the edges to leave a nice smooth junction between hull and fairing then apply a layer of tape all around the join to hold it all in place while the adhesive cures.
 
Do not bother, Leave it off.
Instead get the sponge from an old cushion, Cut it round the sail drive & to fit inside the void. 3 inch thick is about the thickness you need to make it flush. Yours may be different.
Then buy a tube of "Sticks like" builders adhesive from Wickes & apply it in copious amounts to the edge of the void & the sail drive & insert the sponge so it sits flush under slight compression
Just prior to launch, & each year, smear a thick layer of grease into the pores of the sponge to prevent weed. This lasts a season , possibly due to its flexibility, but no weed attaches to it
Mine has now lasted 7 years.
I tried all sorts of adhesive & got fed up paying for new seals each year
 
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Bostik 2402 worked great for me and it has lasted years. It is the recommended product.
Given the time it takes for all the water to drain out of the void between the fairing and the hull/drive I have always thought that the fairing would significantly slow the ingress of water if the diaphragms failed - provided the glue holds.
I suspect Sika flex would also do a good job
 
Daydream believer said:
I tried all sorts of adhesive & got fed up paying for new seals each year
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I make my own from 3 mm rubber sheet, 2 euro's instead of 180.
Make sure to make cuts (with a round hole at the end to prevent tearing) in front and behind the sail drive so it can move back and forward under power.
Otherwise the rubber will be torn off.
 
SvenH said:
I make my own from 3 mm rubber sheet, 2 euro's instead of 180.
Make sure to make cuts (with a round hole at the end to prevent tearing) in front and behind the sail drive so it can move back and forward under power.
Otherwise the rubber will be torn off.
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Why would you pay 180 euros? Current rate is under 30 euros each.
(well no you are not, because you are using a piece of rubber sheet, but you get my point I am sure :ambivalence:)
 
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