Hi, Regarding the Saildrive conversion, it is probably a good thing to do with regard to accessability for maintenance etc. and from the feathering prop viewpoint and having a positive reverse gear when you need it. Assuming a fin keel yacht, which would be a necessity, remove the motor and stern gear and make good the shaft hole by means of lots of good glue and a good wooden plug and then f/glassing over, or if it is a glass hull just fill the hole and glass both sides properly. Next, having obtained your saildrive you will have a pattern supplied for the hole size to be cut in the hull there should also be a glass engine bed with integral hull aperture made to fit the engine.After scribing this and grinding or cutting it to fit the inside of the hull, Carefully and properly glass this into place over the hole. Clean up and paint using approved gel coat paints then fit the motor and leg using all the proper seals that will be supplied with the motor. When all this is done slide the rubber 'Boot' over the leg and fasten the perimeter fitting around the hull aperture using plenty of sealant and finally u/coat and paint with antifouling. NOTE when antifouling mark an area at least 600mm from the stern leg all around and make sure that within this area no antifouling that contains any metals such as copper , tin etc. are used as they will start electrolysis as soon as the boat is returned to the water and depending upon the siting of your mooring and the electrical systems present both internally and externally the stern leg will commence to corrode.
Most makers will supply full instructions as to positioning etc and probably about the foregoing.
Best Regards, B
I replaced my outboard engine with a sail drive.
Installing a sail drive is not too difficult, provided you can lay up some fibre glass, the instructions for fitting a sail drive are easy to follow however you need to pay particular attention to the following.
Before you even make a purchase, check out the price and availability of replacement parts, Things like starter motors and fuel shut off solenoids; Also check the fuel filter system supplied as most provide only a very basic system.
Having decided on a brand you now have to locate the engine bed and cut the hole for the leg, the instructions will guide you here, but make sure the engine bed is properly fitted and secured; Any fibre glassing should be done using epoxy resins as this provide a much stronger bond than wax based resins, sand it when finished and add a couple of coats of resin then a good quality flow coat to finish.
The electrical connections are made simple in that it’s done all you need to connect is a supply from the battery to the starter motor and earth to the block.
Some manufacturers provide you with a rubber cover that fits over the leg and attaches to the underside of the hull to reduce drag, if you don’t get one you can make one from a bit of insertion rubber with a slot cut in it and glue it to the hull.
Consider fitting a feathering prop for positive reverse and improved performance under motor.
Aveaniceday Old Salt Oz.