Sadler deck fittings

[eddystone]

I'd put this on SSOA except not visited much
I'm just starting preparation for renewing Kiwi Grip (well old surface looks like KG) on Sadler 32.
Generally I'm masking off but a few things id like to remove like genoa tracks. Can I assume that everything including the tracks is tapped into metal plates embedded in the deck lay up.? I know the clutches on the coachroof are because I've fitted a couple.
Obviously not the winches but i can mask these
Just that the underside of the deck is not accessible on Sadlers because of one piece headlining

 

[vyv_cox]

I have never removed my genoa tracks but everything else is attached by set screws into aluminium plates. I have replaced my coachroof winches, also on aluminium plates. I would be surprised if the tracks were not attached in the same way.

 

[eddystone]

I have never removed my genoa tracks but everything else is attached by set screws into aluminium plates. I have replaced my coachroof winches, also on aluminium plates. I would be surprised if the tracks were not attached in the same way.

Thanks - it would be a sickening feeling to hear the plink of a retaining nut dropping onto the top of the headlining!

 

[West Coast]

I did exactly the same as you are planning couple of years ago on Sadler built starlight. Removed teak decks, replaced with kiwi grip. We found the Genoa tracks were screwed into an encapsulated plate as Vyv describes. Came off and went back on with no problem.

 

[eddystone]

I wonder if all this applies to the ventilator cowls also or if they are screwed through to the body of the unit which is held in place by the circular frame which in turn is screwed to the headlining

 

[VicMallows]

I can confirm that the genoa tracks are tapped into ally plates, as are the deck winches, stoppers, etc. Whether the screws come out easily will depend on whether they were coated in sealant or something else suitable on assembly. Removing and replacing them does seem a lot of work. The genoa winches, fairleads, cleats, etc that are accessible from underneath are all fixed with penny washers and nuts (and maybe backing pieces).

The ventilator cowls, and also the front hatch, are simply self-tap screws into the outer deck skin (which is about 4mm thick on average).

EDIT: Comments apply to 1984 Sadler29, but should be the same on a 32

 

[eddystone]

I can confirm that the genoa tracks are tapped into ally plates, as are the deck winches, stoppers, etc. Whether the screws come out easily will depend on whether they were coated in sealant or something else suitable on assembly. Removing and replacing them does seem a lot of work. The genoa winches, fairleads, cleats, etc that are accessible from underneath are all fixed with penny washers and nuts (and maybe backing pieces).

The ventilator cowls, and also the front hatch, are simply self-tap screws into the outer deck skin (which is about 4mm thick on average).

EDIT: Comments apply to 1984 Sadler29, but should be the same on a 32

Yes generally it seems easier to mask off but getting the roller between the track and coachroof is a bit awkward; the other problem is the stipple will need sanding off to get the tracks to bed down and I think it takes weeks for kiwi grip to be sandable

 

[Champagne Murphy]

Is the hawse attached the same way? Ie, screwed onto a threaded backing plate. Useful to know for the day when the car needs replacing.

 

[eddystone]

Is the hawse attached the same way? Ie, screwed onto a threaded backing plate. Useful to know for the day when the car needs replacing.

Do you mean the horse - i.e. the mainsheet traveller track.

 

[Poey50]

Yes generally it seems easier to mask off but getting the roller between the track and coachroof is a bit awkward; the other problem is the stipple will need sanding off to get the tracks to bed down and I think it takes weeks for kiwi grip to be sandable

I left the tracks in place on our S32 and masked instead as the fixings were corroded in place. The trick is to buy an extra roller and cut it up to make small tools to texture the Kiwigrip in awkward places. My most useful tool was a piece 15mm x 50mm Silkaflexed onto the end of a piece of ply,

 

[eddystone]

I left the tracks in place on our S32 and masked instead as the fixings were corroded in place. The trick is to buy an extra roller and cut it up to make small tools to texture the Kiwigrip in awkward places. My most useful tool was a piece 15mm x 50mm Silkaflexed onto the end of a piece of ply,

Yes I remember that from an earlier post (very helpful - thanks) but didnt get the bit about attaching to a piece of ply because it needs to rotate?
I think I can get the cut up bits to fit on a spare handle they sent me

 

[vyv_cox]

Is the hawse attached the same way? Ie, screwed onto a threaded backing plate. Useful to know for the day when the car needs replacing.

Mainsheet track on our 1984 34 is attached via aluminium plates. Later ones had nuts, inside the galley locker and under covers in the aft cabin.

 

[Poey50]

Yes I remember that from an earlier post (very helpful - thanks) but didnt get the bit about attaching to a piece of ply because it needs to rotate?
I think I can get the cut up bits to fit on a spare handle they sent me

No need for it to rotate. You just tap lightly vertically up and down to create exactly the same texture as the roller. I think I made another tool about 3/4 inch by four inches for the section adjacent to the genoa tracks.

 

[Sandy]

I'd put this on SSOA except not visited much
I'm just starting preparation for renewing Kiwi Grip (well old surface looks like KG) on Sadler 32.
Generally I'm masking off but a few things id like to remove like genoa tracks. Can I assume that everything including the tracks is tapped into metal plates embedded in the deck lay up.? I know the clutches on the coachroof are because I've fitted a couple.
Obviously not the winches but i can mask these
Just that the underside of the deck is not accessible on Sadlers because of one piece headlining

I know this is a different type of boat, but well worth a read.

http://www.albinballad.co.uk/how-tos/paint-deck-outside-winter/

 

[vyv_cox]

I know this is a different type of boat, but well worth a read.

http://www.albinballad.co.uk/how-tos/paint-deck-outside-winter/

Yes, Mark Ryan who built my current website. He made a superb job of his deck and this is a first class report of doing it.

 

[eddystone]

Mainsheet track on our 1984 34 is attached via aluminium plates. Later ones had nuts, inside the galley locker and under covers in the aft cabin.

Our 32 is end of 1986 and cannot find any nuts in those locations so must be tapped into metal plates

 

[eddystone]

Yes, Mark Ryan who built my current website. He made a superb job of his deck and this is a first class report of doing it.

Ha perfection! But im afraid mine will be a bit more functional as I've made a polcy decision not to remove anything except the solar panels. I've already done the worst of the gelcoat cracking in the channels either side of the cockpit

 

[eddystone]

Ha perfection! But im afraid mine will be a bit more functional as I've made a polcy decision not to remove anything except the solar panels. I've already done the worst of the gelcoat cracking in the channels either side of the cockpit

Also, I want to be back in the water next week

 

[vyv_cox]

I've already done the worst of the gelcoat cracking in the channels either side of the cockpit

How have you done that? Our gelcoat is a mass of crazing, especially around the hatch garage and instrument pod.

 

[eddystone]

How have you done that? Our gelcoat is a mass of crazing, especially around the hatch garage and instrument pod.

Well accepted wisdom is you have to open them all up but that’s not realistic when you’ve got so many. Previous attempt last year using Magic Eazy hairline crack filler were not successful. I had a theory that if the filler was thin enough I.e. close to flowcoat it would fill the cracks. I had an opportunity to experiment with making my wife’s Comet dinghy saleable where the bottom was covered in stress cracking due to her unique approach to “stopping “
Basically I thinned gel coat with a paraffin/wax mix and scraped it on with some success.
On the 32, I decided not to attempt the tiniest hairlines as the only solution would be to sand it right back in tricky areas such as the hatch surround. So I concentrated on the deeper ones mainly in the deck channels either side of the coaming. I did use a Dremel to open up a couple of areas where I thickened up the gel coat mix with colloidal silica. Then skimmed over with thinned gel coat. I think it would be fair to say I covered the cracks as much as filled them. I used Blue Gee clear polyester and mixed white and off white pigment (about 4:1) so that it didn’t stand out.