vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Hot water shouldn't be a problem, why not fit a calorifier?
Sadler 29
- Thread starter GPS2
- Start date
GPS2
Active Member
Thanks Delbuoy, I am very set on a BK, but it is good to know that you have been happy with your first boat for 13 years, that says a lot. Another S29 owner is only looking to sell soon as he will be 80, I hope I will have as many years enjoying my boat when she finally arrives.it would be good to know who has added hot water to their s29 as I believe this is fairly rare going on what is for sale.
reeac
Well-Known Member
I've heard of someone fitting a calorifier into the under-cockpit floor space on a S29. Personally, I store a rolled up inflatable dinghy (Bombard AX2) in that space and we manage with cold water.
Scomber
Well-Known Member
View attachment 49516
here's our BK sadler 29 - isles of scilly 2014
we manage with cold water or use a kettle or sunshine!!! (if that happens)
cut out bottom of under cockpit storage and re built with flat surface -much more useable - had to do as new engine meant slightly different position for water trap which stopped bathtub fitting !
here's our BK sadler 29 - isles of scilly 2014
we manage with cold water or use a kettle or sunshine!!! (if that happens)
cut out bottom of under cockpit storage and re built with flat surface -much more useable - had to do as new engine meant slightly different position for water trap which stopped bathtub fitting !
Hydrozoan
Well-Known Member
On a Sadler 32 I fitted a 22l calorifier (and an engine start battery box, thus doubling the domestic capacity) in the locker under the chart table seat / head of the quarter berth. With rationalization of tools the loss of space was not a problem. I don't know if the Sadler 29 would allow for that, but I would imagine so. With upgraded wiring, a refrigerated coolbox and the battery capacity to run it for a few days off shorepower, hot and cold pumped water to galley and heads, and a heater, we don't lack reasonable luxuries for coastal cruising - except for a shower, some might argue.
GPS2
Active Member
Wow, what a great picture Seascape, that's sums up exactly why I am waiting for the right BK boat, although I'm not sure my homeground of the Blackwater and Thames can compete with that background! Still, you have given me an adventure to aim at. Thank you for sharing. I think that some of the SWMBO requirements might eventually focus efforts arround hot running water and heaters etc.
xhurleyman
Well-Known Member
Hello GPS2, I did not buy a 29, rather a 26, also a bilge keeler, mine came from the East coast but has had a chequered career and went on holiday to North Wales which was where I found her. I had wanted a Sadler for some time and as others have intimated, a survey is a good idea. Mine showed osmosis and would require something doing to the topsides which had been painted ten years ago.
These boats were very well built,have a good name and hold their value well so in my opinion as a young classic boat are well worth considering not only as a project but also for ownership. I have done a great deal to mine including new standing and running rigging, a new engine, full osmosis treatment and the topsides are now vynil wrapped as many race boats. To do all this properly the boat was a year ashore during which time I also replaced my pillow water tank and made alterations to suit me internally and to some parts of the engine set up and recently added a full width stern rail with a solar panel on.
Many people take many years to renovate their boats, I wanted most to be done in the year and now she is afloat, that double skin build is proving its worth as the boat is dry and never cold even without a heater, I am very pleased.
Yes, do join the Sadler and Starlight Association and use the forum as all information re your 29 can be asked for there.
Go for it, I doubt you will be sorry!
All the best
Kevin
These boats were very well built,have a good name and hold their value well so in my opinion as a young classic boat are well worth considering not only as a project but also for ownership. I have done a great deal to mine including new standing and running rigging, a new engine, full osmosis treatment and the topsides are now vynil wrapped as many race boats. To do all this properly the boat was a year ashore during which time I also replaced my pillow water tank and made alterations to suit me internally and to some parts of the engine set up and recently added a full width stern rail with a solar panel on.
Many people take many years to renovate their boats, I wanted most to be done in the year and now she is afloat, that double skin build is proving its worth as the boat is dry and never cold even without a heater, I am very pleased.
Yes, do join the Sadler and Starlight Association and use the forum as all information re your 29 can be asked for there.
Go for it, I doubt you will be sorry!
All the best
Kevin
reeac
Well-Known Member
The phrase about parts of the engine setup reminded me that early on I moved the engine instrument panel on our S29 from down below to the aft facing side of the bridge deck. Not difficult to do and gives the helmsman instant access to engine starting and view of the rev counter.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
What did you do about waterproofing? On the 34, which is pretty similar in many respects to the 29, the location you mention is completely open and does not lend itself to a Perspex cover. I have a tachometer there, which seems to be surviving, but I'm not sure the Yanmar engine panel would.
reeac
Well-Known Member
I made a shallow wooden picture frame which had the instrument panel recessed into it and then made a fixed Perspex window which left a sufficient gap at the bottom to allow the key to be inserted and operated. When the key is not in place I have a second window of Perspex which can be slipped up and behind the fixed window and this is retained by two s/s round headed screws which are set in the bottom rail of the picture frame with enough protruding to hold the loose window. That window has a cutout in its lower edge to allow a finger to be hooked in in order to remove it. A rectangular cutout in the bridge deck face allows all but part of the picture frame to be recessed. It's proved to be weatherproof ove around 10 years now. The nice thing is that the revised position of the panel is so close to the original position that no wiring mods were needed - simply turn the panel through 180 degrees. I didn't move the cold start control as that looked too difficult but I find that as long as the VP 2002 has run once during the day then it doesn't require the cold start control to be operated.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Good idea:encouragement: I have the Yanmar panel, the solar panel regulator and fuel gauge all to the starboard side of the main electric panel. They were looking rather untidy so I have just had a single new panel cut to take them in a more organised way. I could have used your suggestion if I had known a few weeks ago! Would still have needed something to fill the vacant holes, though.
xhurleyman
Well-Known Member
Hi Reac, by engine parts I mean, there was a Volvo shaft seal which was very difficult for me to burp after taking the ground and generally when returning to the water so I had a new older style greaser made by C&O Engineering at Abbotskerswell in Devon. I have also had one of those glass fuel filter holders put in just to the left of the engine near the cabin end so I can see if there is any water present and undo the tap easily.
At the same time as the boat was being renovated I changed all the sea cocks and valves. The sea cocks are the newer Blakes with a grease nipple which makes life a lot easier.
The Cutlas bearing was renewed and a rope cutting disc fitted but one thing I hadn't bargained on was the engine and shaft fittings of the old engine also a Yanmar 1gm10 were dead in line with the Skeg which meant The engine would have to be moved forward into the cabin to replace future Cutlas bearings. However, my engineer has made a puller so the bearing can be tapped little by little out from its housing and down the shaft and off when the prop is removed.
That is all really with reference to engine parts!
Cheers, Kevin
At the same time as the boat was being renovated I changed all the sea cocks and valves. The sea cocks are the newer Blakes with a grease nipple which makes life a lot easier.
The Cutlas bearing was renewed and a rope cutting disc fitted but one thing I hadn't bargained on was the engine and shaft fittings of the old engine also a Yanmar 1gm10 were dead in line with the Skeg which meant The engine would have to be moved forward into the cabin to replace future Cutlas bearings. However, my engineer has made a puller so the bearing can be tapped little by little out from its housing and down the shaft and off when the prop is removed.
That is all really with reference to engine parts!
Cheers, Kevin
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reeac
Well-Known Member
That bit surprises me as my S29 has the prop shaft offset to Port to permit withdrawal. I assumed that that was general for the model. I've speculated also that the offset must cancell out some propwalk when going forwards.
johnalison
Well-Known Member
I've only come across this on a friend's 32. When the boat was newly acquired, the shaft became disconnected from the gearbox and they were lucky that the two-bladed prop hit the rudder and didn't disappear altogether.
VicMallows
Well-Known Member
Mine (1984) does too .... as well as every other S29 I have seen.
However yachts build by the original company were available to any desired state of completion, so a home builder might have done things differently. (Also a few were built under license in South Africa, may be different, and may by now have ended up over here in UK).
johnalison
Well-Known Member
My 1987 29 was certainly not offset and was factory built, in fact, we went to see it being built. There were a number of changes during the production run. I think you must have only been seeing earlier models.
GPS2
Active Member
Thank you for sharing your s26 history Kevin,
I must admit that having looked at a couple of s26's I really liked the feel of them, but felt the s29 offered a lot more space and comfortable standing height down below in comparison. You also appear to get a a lot more boat for your money when comparing the second hand market pricing at the moment. On the cost of maintenance and replacement, it seems to me that whilst sailing is a never ending drain on finances, a lot of the work you have competed will be to your satisfaction and not something that will realised should you have to suddenly sell. A £18k boat needing updated rigging, engine, sails electric, nav etc will cost arround £12-£15k + in upgrade costs depending on capability and want. These upgrades affect resale value, but certainly nowhere near the outlay effort. That said and as you mentioned, for the long term owner, these items are for your benifit not someone else's. I read somewhere recently that " A well executed passage is often better than arriving first"
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
I wonder if the bloke who came first agreed with that
VicMallows
Well-Known Member
Interesting, thanks. I wonder why they made the change? Did, perhaps, the prop on later engine/gearbox combinations rotate in the opposite direction, thus exacerbating prop-walk rather than reducing the effect of the offset. (I guess it at least avoids the possibility of the shaft becoming detached at the coupling and falling right out
).
