when its good its very good when its bad its bloody awful.keep the little squirt oil bottle full and handy and use it ,fit a heater coil instead of the starting cigarette set up.make sure the injector nozzle is clean.keep a spare water pump diapragm
and know how to fit it.and it will keep going ,probably for the next 30years.
These engines were fitted in life boats at one time
I had one of these things in my last but one boat. It had been totally rebuilt by Savages at Emsworth b4 I got it.
It was always a so and so to start and I think I only ever once started it by hand. I agree with most that [Bryantee] says. I had the head off mine 1st winter to lap in the valves to try and over come the poor compression that was at the core of its reluctant starting... but that didnt cure it... I soldered on for 5 years or so and it would always start in the end and then run well.
Make sure it has a glow plug fitted and also use the oil injection device to drop lubricating oil into the cyl head... this seals any slack in the rings and apparently ups the comp ratio.
The other thing is to check if the Dyna starter charges,, as well as starts the engine. Mine didnt charge and as almost no one understands these thing now I had a job getting fixed (and it cost 150 quid 10 years back)
The final blinder mine threw was to refuse to start when I was selling the boat... I sold the boat on the undestanding that I would get the engine fixed and running... Well one thing led to another and although I can generally fix most things I had to had this piece junk over to Cutlers at Thornham to attend to which set me back 900 quid!!! (new cyl liner/big end lap valve again etc.) I know to chap who bought it and it still is a lousy starter.
Ckech that the expansion /water mixer chamber looks OK as they rust thro from the inside, hugely expensive if you can get one, although its possible to get something made up out of plumbing parts that will suffice for almost nothing.
Remember that these things are very heavy and could upset the trim on some boats.
I sort of suspect that I might have run the engine too long at idle speeds, and on reflection poss it didnt like this, But as youve prob gathered I think this engine would be best either in a museum or a the bottom of the creek at the far end of a mooring riser.
I had one for eight years. It was probably the most reliable engine I've ever encountered. Would always start, except when the batteries were flat, but then it would always start within 20 secs of hand starting. Hand starting was so reliable that I didn't bother with a dedicated battery. In really cold weather, we found that the 'cigarette' style of pre-heat was helpful. Everything is accessible. Don't worry about changing the impeller, it doesn't have one, just a diaphragm that will last another 20 years.
I agree with the earlier comment of keeping the oil can handy to ensure that the valve lifter stayed free, just a squeeze every 10 or 20 hours.
For spares, guidance and excellent old fashioned engineering, call John Cutler Marine in Emsworth. Tell him I sent you.
The Sabb is one of the last dedicated real marine engines and not just a marinised auto engine. I wish I still had one, in eight years of cruising it never gave me a moment's hesitation, but then, like most things you come to rely on, you've got to look after them properly.
Allan