Rydlyme in France

I dont believe there is anything that will stop it. There is a balance between need to remove scale ( one forum member has just done his aluminium outboard) and not dissolving your engine. Would I do it? No.

The only ways to do this are to make the concentration weaker and for a short time and then flush it out. Will you loose some? Yes. Will it matter - well only time will tell. Use it on iron / copper / bronze etc and it simply does not react with it. The surprise may change colour but this is a reaction with the surface oxidation not the metal.
 
I dont believe there is anything that will stop it. There is a balance between need to remove scale ( one forum member has just done his aluminium outboard) and not dissolving your engine. Would I do it? No.

The only ways to do this are to make the concentration weaker and for a short time and then flush it out. Will you loose some? Yes. Will it matter - well only time will tell. Use it on iron / copper / bronze etc and it simply does not react with it. The surprise may change colour but this is a reaction with the surface oxidation not the metal.
Yes the passivation layer is your “ surface oxidation “ and coppers oxides do react with HCL .

You are missing the significance of the surface passivation coating usually oxides from oxygen.It’s this micro layer that reacts with HCL esp Copper oxides in the passivation layer .

The cooling apparatus stacks are alloys of various metals btw , but that doesn’t matter , it’s the passivation layer thats important.
Huge chunks are taken out of the passivation layer leaving it microscopically rough or appear etched .
The critters / crud re form stick faster to the rougher cooler pipe surface ( what ever metal ) before its surface re passivities .

Think new copper coins and they passivate to a darker colour ….but takes ave of 6 weeks not six seconds after a HCL acid flush .

You can add chemicals usually that react as the ridlyme works to form additional alkalines that speed up passivation .
When crud dissolves into the ridlyme or HCL dilution , it’s PH increases as the alkaline from the shells / worms / crud is dissolved by the acids .How ever there’s something in the rydlyme it’s “ proprietary “ product that re encourages re passivation almost immediately as the crud dissolves leaving a smoother surface .

I mean tonight put some Hp tomato source on an old copper coin .Go to bed .In the morning rinse off and see the now a bright shiny coin .It’s the passivation layer that the Hp acid source had removed .It hasn’t dissolved the whole coin , your coin will still be there .Now imagine if the passivation layer was partially removed , net result is a rougher surface .It takes time for the damaged passivation layer to reform .
 
Just to close this one if it helps anyone in the future. The European distributor for Rydlyme sent some but it got delayed and didn’t show. In the end we used the Starbright Engine descaler which was available locally and it worked fantastically And much faster than Rydlyme.
 
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