Rutland 503 wind generator

Mister E,

were you able to see if the owner had tied it off to immobilse both the blades and the turning into wind ?

As I mentioned the vibration and noise can be awful, especially when the bearings are shot; a friend who went to live abroad had one on his boat left ashore and in a breeze I could hear and feel it in the ground from some distance - I thought it must be damaging the boat so tied it off !

It was not tied off but is a larger size than the one in question.

The mention of a slip ring and bearing makes me wonder if it could be seized or the previous owner has jammed the thing because of the noise you mention?
 
Hard to see how to jam it apart from tying the blades, and maybe a line to a backstay or something to stop it rotating - if nature hasn't done that for it - but I think you're on the right lines.

I'd ditch the wind job then quietly stroll away and get a solar panel, the semi-flexible jobs suit most boats; my 30 watt one covers all my needs, I rarely plug in the engine charger - but then the single battery is for plotter, radar in short bursts, lights etc - not used for engine starting but I think a similar panel with the right wiring on an inboard engine & alternator equipped boat would keep two batteries topped up for weekend / occasional holiday cruise type useage - a liveaboard would need a lot more.
 
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Hard to see how to jam it apart from tying the blades, and maybe a line to a backstay or something to stop it rotating

The usual way of stopping them is a line through the vane (which has a hole in it for this purpose) to swing it round and tie it off at an angle at which it won't spin. Obviously this won't always work if the wind changes (unless the boat's free to swing), in which case, having stalled it with the same line, the blades can safely be tied fast.
 
Mine makes very little noise normally. The one time it makes a little noise is when the engine is also running, and the wind gen has to limit its output, so there's a soft high pitched squeal. I installed a switch to short out the output, effectively braking the whole unit for times when no output is desired.
The only way to stop it dead it to tie it off. I do that in winter when on the hard.
There's no detectable vibration. At anchor in 20-30 knots, I can't hear it above the wind noise.
 
... but I think a similar [30W] panel with the right wiring on an inboard engine & alternator equipped boat would keep two batteries topped up for weekend / occasional holiday cruise type usage ...

My 30W semi-flexible panel does just that for my two 100AH batteries with the kind of usage you describe.
 
The choice between solar and wind can depend a lot of the prevailing weather at the location.
West Coast Scotland isn't a great place to reply on solar, but it isn't so often blessed with no wind.
Further south the reverse possibly applies.
 
The choice between solar and wind can depend a lot of the prevailing weather at the location.
West Coast Scotland isn't a great place to reply on solar, but it isn't so often blessed with no wind.
Further south the reverse possibly applies.

A small solar panel will easily outperform a 503, even on West Coast of Scotland when output is averaged over the summer. It will be also be vastly cheaper to use solar (unless fitting a "special marine panel" :D:D).

My 913 averaged about 10Ah/day each summer for 3 years. Output did fall when I eventually sailed South but it was never great in Scotland.
 
Thank you to all the positive replies and the information I have received from contributors who are able to offer assistance to a thicko!!

Now I need to investigate the cause of the non rotating spindle assembly (thanks to VicS copy of the repair manual- very useful)
I realise the O/P of the 503 will be 5 Ah or less so intend to back up with a 20W solar panel which I already have, but haven't fitted. I have a 115Ah domestic leisure battery and 80Ah starter on board. I also carry a reserve 115 Ah battery which isn't connected to a charging system, so the 503 and Solar panel will be used to keep that topped up as a backup battery. May even consider a changeover switching system to allow easy changeover to the domestic battery when on board?

Any ideas which way I hold the spanner to undo the nuts and bolts on the tailfin? Being of lesser intelligence I can't work out if the spanners should be in my right hand and hold the unit with the left or put spanner in my left hand and use feet to support the turbine?? Or should the spanners be held in my feet??
 
I'd ditch the wind job then quietly stroll away and get a solar panel, the semi-flexible jobs suit most boats; my 30 watt one covers all my needs, I rarely plug in the engine charger - but then the single battery is for plotter, radar in short bursts, lights etc - not used for engine starting but I think a similar panel with the right wiring on an inboard engine & alternator equipped boat would keep two batteries topped up for weekend / occasional holiday cruise type useage - a liveaboard would need a lot more.

Such good sense! I fitted one of those Rutland jobs to my first boat when they first came out. Mistake! It wasn't just the bearings that went, everything went. Ditched it after 2 years.

I now have 60W of amorphous solar (better on grey days) & outboard charging. Keeps me going all summer, 4-5 months continuous sailing, even powering a small compressor coolbox. Shore power is a rarity where I lurk.
 
I realise the O/P of the 503 will be 5 Ah or less so intend to back up with a 20W solar panel which I already have, but haven't fitted. I have a 115Ah domestic leisure battery and 80Ah starter on board. I also carry a reserve 115 Ah battery which isn't connected to a charging system, so the 503 and Solar panel will be used to keep that topped up as a backup battery.

So you're worried about your service battery not getting enough charge either from limited engine use or avoidance of shore power yet you plan to charge a spare battery so that when your service battery inevitably goes flat you can change them over and then what, take the flat battery home?

Have you ever considered doing it "right first time" and get a solar panel that WILL keep your service battery full?

I'm sorry if you're a shoe-string sailor but you do seem to be making a lot of work for yourself when in fact there is such an easy fix.

See here:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/20w-flexi-pv-solar-panel-kit-n65ng

20 watts, 8 amp-hours per day, £99.99 vs the cost of what you have already bought, have to repair, fit and is ultimately less powerful.
 
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So you're worried about your service battery not getting enough charge either from limited engine use or avoidance of shore power yet you plan to charge a spare battery so that when your service battery inevitably goes flat you can change them over and then what, take the flat battery home?

Have you ever considered doing it "right first time" and get a solar panel that WILL keep your service battery full?

I'm sorry if you're a shoe-string sailor but you do seem to be making a lot of work for yourself when in fact there is such an easy fix.

Dont make things complicated. He's still trying to work out how to use a spanner :)
 
I suppose that you might as well fit the 503 if you already have it and don't need to spend any money fixing it.

Just to put things in perspective: A 10W unshaded panel lying flat on deck on a boat around the Clyde should give approx. following Ah each day.
May 2.8
June 2.8
July 2.6
Aug 2

This assumes an average year, based on historical data.

My own estimate for a Rutland 503 would be around 3Ah/day averaged over the whole summer. You will actually have many days with nil output. Solar panel output is unlikely to give nil output, even on cloudy days.

So a 20W panel is likely to be almost twice as effective as the 503 and be a more reliable charge source.
 
I can not work out why you are removing the tail fin?

If you look at the base you should so some sort of method of clamping or bolting the thing to a post or something similar. Just above that there will be a groove or gap. It is at that point that the body turns to let it point into the wind.

Just to confuse you even more if you search Ebay for solar controllers you will find dual battery ones for about £20. These will also work with your wind thingy.
 
Such good sense! I fitted one of those Rutland jobs to my first boat when they first came out. Mistake! It wasn't just the bearings that went, everything went. Ditched it after 2 years.

I now have 60W of amorphous solar (better on grey days) & outboard charging. Keeps me going all summer, 4-5 months continuous sailing, even powering a small compressor coolbox. Shore power is a rarity where I lurk.

Gadzooks !

When Angus agrees with something I say I know it must be the end of days -

Goodbye Cruel World !

Andy

View attachment 59029
 
I have one of these. It rotates. There's a bearing on the little stub mast attached to the unit, and this stubmast fits into the SS pole that the whole is mounted on on my pushpit.

As Geoff said , it swivel on the stubmast that fits into the SS pole , I suggest it seized .
We have 516 rutlands , helps to top up the battery at night but it the solar panels that do the really work
 
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