Rust spots on deck

[rogerthebodger]

Not an option - re-galvanising would not properly coat the links where they make contact.

Not initially true I have has anchor chain re-galvanizes and all is OK when the correct spin bucket is used

Regalvanising chain

Re galvanising anchor chain

 

[bats]

Not initially true I have has anchor chain re-galvanizes and all is OK when the correct spin bucket is used

Regalvanising chain

Re galvanising anchor chain

Thanks. Has anyone got recent experience of re-galvanizing chain post the demise of the BE Wedge batch process?

 

[billskip]

Good call, it doesn't take much to make a hell of a mess (I did it to my own white car once)

And my son has just done it to a new not yet fitted £600 shower tray......he won't do it twice....

 

[JOHNPEET]

I use it on any rust on my steel boat and it does not effect the epoxy paint the boat / deck the boat is painted with

Does anyone know whether there are any risks with using Y10 on or near to anodised aluminium window frames and hatches. Or are there any issues with using it on or getting it on plastics such as PVC decking while being washed off?

 

[rogerthebodger]

Does anyone know whether there are any risks with using Y10 on or near to anodised aluminium window frames and hatches. Or are there any issues with using it on or getting it on plastics such as PVC decking while being washed off?

I have not any issues with the aluminium hatches on my boat

Most plastics are resident to Hydraulic acid except taking the colour out of dies canvas

 

[PaulRainbow]

Does anyone know whether there are any risks with using Y10 on or near to anodised aluminium window frames and hatches. Or are there any issues with using it on or getting it on plastics such as PVC decking while being washed off?

Not had any such issues with Oxalic acid John, which is the active component of Y10.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I have not any issues with the aluminium hatches on my boat

Most plastics are resident to Hydraulic acid except taking the colour out of dies canvas

Roger, Y10 is Oxalic acid, not Hydrochloric.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Roger, Y10 is Oxalic acid, not Hydrochloric.

Yes Paul I know that I use Hydraulic exclusive as its works faster and my statements are still valid and will not effect GRP but Y10 being Oxalic does dull stainless but as Oxalic is not as reactive as Hydraulic it would be OK to use

 

[PaulRainbow]

Yes Paul I know that I use Hydraulic exclusive as its works faster and my statements are still valid and will not effect GRP but Y10 being Oxalic does dull stainless but as Oxalic is not as reactive as Hydraulic it would be OK to use

I take it you mean Hydrochloric ?

Interesting that you say Oxalic dull stainless Roger. My port light hinges and catches are all polished stainless and were a bit grubby when we bought the boat, several had rust stains on them. I dropped them all in a tub of Oxalic and they came out like new, mirror finish. What stainless have you had go dull ?

 

[JOHNPEET]

Not had any such issues with Oxalic acid John, which is the active component of Y10.

This definitely the answer that I was hoping to see

It’s the anodised window frames, port holes and hatches that I’m particularly concerned about as they’re completely unblemished at present. I have need to treat some very large areas of my boat in order to remove a lot of grinder glitter (local incident by others) which has begun to rust and become adhered to the paint (2 pack polyurethane ) A few trial areas have shown excellent results! Just worried about the alloy frames - all Vetus products.

 

[PaulRainbow]

This definitely the answer that I was hoping to see

It’s the anodised window frames, port holes and hatches that I’m particularly concerned about as they’re completely unblemished at present. I have need to treat some very large areas of my boat in order to remove a lot of grinder glitter (local incident by others) which has begun to rust and become adhered to the paint (2 pack polyurethane ) A few trial areas have shown excellent results! Just worried about the alloy frames - all Vetus products.

I've never had an issue with it John, but can't say that i've used it on anything new. Would be prudent to try a little on an out of the way something or other, just to be double safe.

 

[JOHNPEET]

I've never had an issue with it John, but can't say that i've used it on anything new. Would be prudent to try a little on an out of the way something or other, just to be double safe.

Thanks for your replies

 

[Iliade]

I did use heated oxalic acid to speed a job up once and it ate the chrome plating off the spoon I used to stir it. Not yet had any trouble with cold oxalic.

Some dockside workmen spread a load of iron filings on my deck the day before I went on a summer's cruise (thanks!!) and it only became apparent after I left. I couldn't readily find any oxalic in Guernsey but I did find something like this which worked very well and is supposedly safe for aluminium wheels. (Sodium Thioglycolic acid I believe.) Amazon do a small bottle. Given that a 500ml bottle dealt with the entire deck of a 34'er the smaller one may well suffice.

 

[JOHNPEET]

I did use heated oxalic acid to speed a job up once and it ate the chrome plating off the spoon I used to stir it. Not yet had any trouble with cold oxalic.

Some dockside workmen spread a load of iron filings on my deck the day before I went on a summer's cruise (thanks!!) and it only became apparent after I left. I couldn't readily find any oxalic in Guernsey but I did find something like this which worked very well and is supposedly safe for aluminium wheels. (Sodium Thioglycolic acid I believe.) Amazon do a small bottle. Given that a 500ml bottle dealt with the entire deck of a 34'er the smaller one may well suffice.

I had come across a very similar product - Carpro IronX, but have read some warnings about it staining some types of paint if they have an “open” or “porous” surface!
I like the idea of the Y10 being in a gel form, so that it only goes where you put it!

 

[rogerthebodger]

I take it you mean Hydrochloric ?

Interesting that you say Oxalic dull stainless Roger. My port light hinges and catches are all polished stainless and were a bit grubby when we bought the boat, several had rust stains on them. I dropped them all in a tub of Oxalic and they came out like new, mirror finish. What stainless have you had g dull ?

I use pool acid which is 30% concentration Hydrochloric acid

I also use phosphoric acid as was used to clean car bodies before painting in the motor car plants we manufactured conveyor systems for the manufacturer of cars and trucks

I use exclusive 316L stainless steel and mechanically polish stainless using polishing mod and compound for stainless steel.

This can remove any chrome oxide that is the main protection for preve sinon of rustion.

If and when you doget rust (iron oxide) and you use Oxalic acid the acid will attack the rust and remove leaving very small pits that causes the shine to dull as the surface of the stainless is not so reflective.

Any other muck could be removed with just a polish with soap and water.

Its the removal of the Iron oxide (rust) by Oxalic acid that dulls the stainless steel

I know this from personal experience as Oxalic acid was used to clean the tubular hand rails on m current boat which after some tine went dull.

I then re polished the tubes and started using use soap detergent and water with a fresh water prince a recommended by the British Stainless steel association and no more dulling a the chromium oxide layer was preserved.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I use pool acid which is 30% concentration Hydrochloric acid

I also use phosphoric acid as was used to clean car bodies before painting in the motor car plants we manufactured conveyor systems for the manufacturer of cars and trucks

I use exclusive 316L stainless steel and mechanically polish stainless using polishing mod and compound for stainless steel.

This can remove any chrome oxide that is the main protection for preve sinon of rustion.

If and when you doget rust (iron oxide) and you use Oxalic acid the acid will attack the rust and remove leaving very small pits that causes the shine to dull as the surface of the stainless is not so reflective.

Any other muck could be removed with just a polish with soap and water.

Its the removal of the Iron oxide (rust) by Oxalic acid that dulls the stainless steel

I know this from personal experience as Oxalic acid was used to clean the tubular hand rails on m current boat which after some tine went dull.

I then re polished the tubes and started using use soap detergent and water with a fresh water prince a recommended by the British Stainless steel association and no more dulling a the chromium oxide layer was preserved.

Thanks for that Roger. I've only ever used it for clean rust stains off, not for anything pitted. Fir instance, the window hinges and catches are all inside and just had streaks of rust stains, likely emanating from the threaded holes/fixtures, but no pitting. I guess that's why they didn't go dull.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Thanks for that Roger. I've only ever used it for clean rust stains off, not for anything pitted. Fir instance, the window hinges and catches are all inside and just had streaks of rust stains, likely emanating from the threaded holes/fixtures, but no pitting. I guess that's why they didn't go dull.

Paul when you polish anything yor are making the surface smooch so it will reflect light

I polish using first 120grit to get the rough pitting reduced followed by polishing with reducing grits normally I use 240 then 320 followed with a mop and polishing compound.

I have used both flap wheels in a slow speed die grinder and flap pads fitted to an angle grinder again reducing grit sizes followed by polishing compound

When I worked at a Tuge investment company we designed and made a tube polishing marching for polishing the inside of tubes for some Russian company. We learned aot about polishing metals and the grits to use and the mechanism of polishing being removing material leaving a smother finish until the required smoothness is achieved

Removing rust streaks / marks / staining is very different to using Oxalic acid to remove ingrained rust in the base metal (stainless steel)

With rust marks on GRP you are only removing the staining and not any base material like rust pots on a ferrous base metal

There is a big difference between rust staining and rust pitting.

I have just had some rusty steel galvanized and the heavy rusted is quite pitted but the metal I had grit blasted to remove paint only had surface rust so very little pitting

This was cleaned using Hydrochloric acid before zinc dipping