Rust Removal

[Graham376]

Many of my on board tools suffer from rust, especially those I use on the mooring. Interesting short video here and I'm looking for his next one using a battery charger - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZmuX-rItR4&feature=em-uploademail

 

[ashtead]

Thanks must buy some of that WD solution but where?

 

[V1701]

ACF50 is an extremely good preventative to stop things rusting in the first place, I use it on motorbikes (frame, stanchions, definitely not brakes though it's slippery), standing rigging, tools, marine engines. For tools soak a bit on a rag & apply the thinnest possible coat & importantly be mindful when you come to use them that they might be a bit slippery. Works an absolute treat though...

 

[Keith 66]

If you have rusty tools there is an easy way, Get yourself a kilo of Citric acid crystals of ebay, it is cheaper than chips. Put half a mugful in half a bucket of warm water, give it a stir & tip your rusty tools or parts in. Leave for a day or so. Rinse & scrub in hot fresh water dry with paper towels & wd 40. Done. First class results every time & the spent acid is weak enough to be disposed of down the drain.

 

[ashtead]

Thanks Keith citric acid seems simpler than trying to track down a flagon of white vinegar which was my other thought for some garden tools . Why do US stores always seem better stocked in all these vids though ?

 

[[70521]]

Thanks Keith citric acid seems simpler than trying to track down a flagon of white vinegar which was my other thought for some garden tools . Why do US stores always seem better stocked in all these vids though ?

Plenty of 5l containers of White Vinegar online.

 

[ashtead]

I must see if I can click and collect white vin somewhere thanks Sandy

 

[Roberto]

For protection from rust, after having been a Boeshield adept, I am recently using a paste made of beeswax and turpentine: about half and half, put in a jar, closed and heated in a boiling water pan, it all becomes a clear golden colour liquid and when cooled it becomes a paste. Spread a little over the tool, the turpentine evaporates and leaves a thin coating over the tool, very similar to the coating new tools often have. Good for wood finish too (with wood one can use linseed oil instead of turpentine).

 

[colind3782]

If you have rusty tools there is an easy way, Get yourself a kilo of Citric acid crystals of ebay, it is cheaper than chips. Put half a mugful in half a bucket of warm water, give it a stir & tip your rusty tools or parts in. Leave for a day or so. Rinse & scrub in hot fresh water dry with paper towels & wd 40. Done. First class results every time & the spent acid is weak enough to be disposed of down the drain.

Interesting and I've ordered a bit to experiment with. Mugs and buckets are a bit arbitrary so what would you recommend for proportions to be equivalent to white vinegar say. 10%? or more?

 

[Roberto]

Interesting and I've ordered a bit to experiment with. Mugs and buckets are a bit arbitrary so what would you recommend for proportions to be equivalent to white vinegar say. 10%? or more?

Citric acid is also very useful to clean water tanks, it attacks carbonate salts -and it is often sold food grade

 

[Graham376]

Here's the follow up video with bucket and battery charger but seems a lot of effort with no advantage over other methods - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPGH6ULH5bM&feature=em-uploademail

 

[VicS]

Interesting and I've ordered a bit to experiment with. Mugs and buckets are a bit arbitrary so what would you recommend for proportions to be equivalent to white vinegar say. 10%? or more?

Vinegar contains approx 5% acetic acid but citric acid is a stronger acid .

I'd suggest trying 5% to begin with. If it is too slow to react it can be warmed or the concentration increased . In the unlikely event that is is too vigorous then it can be diluted. I seem to remember using a hot 3% solution for acid cleaning large steam raising plant ... but that was about 50 years ago so the memory is a bit hazy .

 

[colind3782]

Vinegar contains approx 5% acetic acid but citric acid is a stronger acid .

I'd suggest trying 5% to begin with. If it is too slow to react it can be warmed or the concentration increased . In the unlikely event that is is too vigorous then it can be diluted. I seem to remember using a hot 3% solution for acid cleaning large steam raising plant ... but that was about 50 years ago so the memory is a bit hazy .

:encouragement:

 

[KompetentKrew]

ACF50 is an extremely good preventative to stop things rusting in the first place, I use it on motorbikes (frame, stanchions, definitely not brakes though it's slippery), standing rigging, tools, marine engines. For tools soak a bit on a rag & apply the thinnest possible coat & importantly be mindful when you come to use them that they might be a bit slippery. Works an absolute treat though...

Some time ago, before I owned my own boat, I read a recommendation by some sailing bloggers of this stuff, CRC SP400:

Maybe it's a reflection of how tight I am that £9 for a spray tin and £6 postage is a bit of an extravagance, but I've only just bought some and I'm impressed at how dry it is.

When you initially spray it on it's shiny and wet, perhaps a bit thicker than 3-in-1 oil - your fingers get wet with it if you touch the surface.

A day or two later it is completely dry, a slightly dirty film and not as "waxy" as it was described (if I remember right).

It would seem to remain in place through handling. and might be just the thing for preventing rust on tools - too early to say how effective it is., but that's what I bought it for.

I also like Roberto's suggestion of beeswax, and would be trying it if I hadn't already ordered this.

 

[Graham376]

I also like Roberto's suggestion of beeswax, and would be trying it if I hadn't already ordered this.

I use beeswax on table saw and other workshop tools, no sign of rust.