Running antifreeze through a Yamaha 4 stroke 115HP

[JasonB]

Hi all,

I tried to find anything on this through the search so apologies if this is the umpteenth time this has been asked......

Our boat will be sitting on the driveway for the winter and I want to flush out the engine - can I run antifreeze through it if I have it in a dustbin of water for the flushing? I came across one reference to running it neat through a set of mufflers (which I don't have).

If I can what is the ratio or is any antifreeze better than none?

Are there specific antifreeze products and which would do the job for me?

After posting, another question occurs to me - do I need to bother with antifreeze at all? Are they designed to drain if fully upright - which it is.

Thanks,

Jason.

 

[Csail]

I never bother but not sure the real answer.

 

[VicS]

Not something that is normally done. If left upright it should all drain ok but check that any drain holes around the gearcase are not blocked. It probably does not have any but some do.

What does the manual say about winterising?

You will have run it in fresh water to flush out the salt though wont you? Does that one have a connection for a hose?

If you do feel tempted to run antifreeze through it use the normal dilution as otherwise I understand it will soften the waterpump impeller.


You did not say what year it was so I have not been able to download an owners manual at least not in the certain knowledge that it is the correct one

 

[JasonB]

Hi Vic,

the Manual is missing , believed tidied........

The engine is a year 2000 engine F115.

Yes it has the hose attachment but unless the engine has been run water does not come out the telltale - I'm assuming the thermostat has something to do with that, ergo I'm looking at the dustbin route to give it it's final flush for the season.

Also, when I am flushing it, water comes out of about 3-4 other holes in the lower leg so I've been a bit reluctant to run it with only a muffler - anyone have any idea what these holes are for?

Thanks,

Jason.

 

[VicS]

You'll find the owners manual at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/service/servicehome/home.aspx
Also exploded diagrams and parts lists.

I dont know why water does not come out of the telltale while flushing with a hose. I would not have thought it was to do with the thermostat. I guess you get water from the telltale when running even when still cold. Maybe it is something to do with the pressure, perhaps you dont get enough pressure unless the engine is running. It is a pressurised cooling system. I would suspect that unless you get water from the telltale you are not effectively flushing the engine. Is water coming out through the prop hub?

You should be able to run the engine OK on muffs. Be bit noisy though! Don't do it while the neighbours are having their afternoon naps.

Are the holes you are referring to the water intakes either side of the gearcase below the cavitation plate. They are what the muffs fit over when using them. Or are you taking about holes above the cavitation plate. They would just be drain holes for the leg I suspect.

 

[mickywillis]

Not necessary! My Merc 80 was stored on my boat on the driveway and all we did was run it using the water muffs attached to the hosepipe for about 10 mins( DON'T run it in gear with prop rotating) to get to a good running temperature. I always used to run the carbs dry on my 2 stroke motors to prevent the float bowls becoming gummed up with oil/petrol mixture if the engine was to sit for more than a week. Did this by disconnecting/switching off the fuel supply from the tank and letting the motor run until it stopped. Switch off the engine but leave the water flowing through the motor for a couple of minutes to ensure that any crud is washed out and to bring the temperature of the warmed engine down. Leave the engine in the DOWN position (never tilted) and you should be OK.Give the underhood components a liberal dousing of WD40 to disperse any water and to keep rust at bay. Belts and braces if you want, but get an old duvet cover and wrap it around the engine (once its cold and all water drained out) and then cover with a large plastic bag/builders sack/tarpaulin for the winter.
BTW it may pay you to service the motor BEFORE winterising it. Some people do it after the winter but a lot of people forget to service the motor at all!!
Also you should get the tell tale running if using the motor on the muffs as the pump should allow a good flow of water all the way through the system. Make sure teh telltale isn't blocked with salt deposits (use a small length of flexible wire up the pipe)
Good luck!

 

[VicS]

[ QUOTE ]
I always used to run the carbs dry on my 2 stroke motors to prevent the float bowls becoming gummed up with oil/petrol mixture if the engine was to sit for more than a week.

[/ QUOTE ] just a comment about that. Those who know about these things say you should not do that with engines with multiple carburetters. They say that the upper cabs will run out of fuel first with the result that for a short while the engine will be running on just the lower cylinders with no lubrication of the upper ones.

I am not entirely convinced but the people who say this know more about these larger engines than I do.

No problem with 4 strokes of course but maybe not so much reason to run the carbs dry anyway.

Definitely service the engine before the winter, not only are you then storing it with nice clean oil in the engine and gearcase but if you find anything that needs attention you have all winter to deal with it.

 

[JasonB]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all your input.

Vic, thanks for the Manual - good to see it again.

In the manual it shows that you need to put in the gear oil from the bottom i.e. the drain hole! I must confess I had a "what the!!!" followed quite quite quickly by a "who thought this was a good feature taking ease of maintenence into account?" I forsee a wonderful moment when I have it half full of oil and running out of more to put in...... or the oil filling device slipping out and losing oil out of the case before I get a chance to plug it, etc, etc, etc.

Sigh, maybe I should just get the Yamaha guy to do the service after all.

Cheers,

Jason.

 

[VicS]

That really is the way to fill an outboard gear box. Trust me. It is difficult to get oil in through the top hole while at the same time as allowing air to escape. You are likely end up spilling more oil on the floor than you get in and an only partly filled box at the end.

The oil is usually conveniently supplied in a squeezable bottle, like a giant toothpaste tube, with a tapered nozzle that will fit into the drain/filler hole. Squeeze the bottle until oil flows from the top hole, you are then sure that the box is full, with no pockets of air trapped. Fit the top plug, using a new sealing washer, then remove the bottle from the lower hole and fit the plug + new seal to that. They say that leaky seals on these plugs is the biggest source of water ingress hence the advice to always fit new ones.

You'll spill a bit of oil so work over a tray or something catch the drips.

You can buy a pump that will fit the filler hole and the bottle but it's not necessary.

The manual tells you how much oil it takes (750 or 715 cm³ depending on model) and its worth buying it initially in the squeezy tubes even if you later find a cheaper way and refill the tubes.

 

[mickywillis]

VicS, not true. What difference would shutting the fuel supply make to running the engine? All carbs would run at the same fuel delivery rate when the fuel is turned on, so switching the fuel supply off would give exactly the same running conditions.
The only time this MAY ring true is if the carbs are badly balanced, that is the top carbs running leaner than the lower ones or instance. In this case, if say the top carb was running leaner than the bottom ones, the lower carbs would run out of fuel 1st and the pistons would be "carried" by the top cylinders. This would result in a loss of oil deposits on the cylinder walls in the lower cylinders and potential bore wear. But if the carbs were that badly set up, you would notice a definate drop in performance or operation.

 

[VicS]

[ QUOTE ]
not true

[/ QUOTE ] I merely pass on the advice from the experts on another forum from the US. Not just "would be experts " but professionals contributing to a huge forum.
Take it or leave it, I am not in position to debate it.