Rudder gland packing?

[Tryweryn]

I think this is what is called my rudder gland? I assume the boat has to come out to repack it? If I want to 'tighten' the packing, are the two bolts on the top anything to do with it? I assume the wire is an earth?

I hear people talking about greasing it, hows that work?

Many thanks as always?:encouragement:

 

[GaryE]

The two bolts at the top of the gland box are what you need to deal with.
Is the boat out of the water?
If so just slacken the two bolts all the way off and lift out the gland packer.
Measure the shaft diameter and the outside diameter of the gland piece.
Subtract one from 'tother the will give you the section of the packing required.
Probably 1/4“ or 5/16“
A google search will find something suitable.
If you want more information as to how to do the job the just PM me.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Its a traditional stuffing box similar to those on prop shafts. If its leaking, try tightening the two nuts slightly. They don't need repacking very often but it can be done in situ. Shouldn't need greasing either.
That coupler looks pretty rusty can't you get a stainless one?

 

[Tryweryn]

Many thanks...would it be ok towire brush and paint the rusty parts?

 

[ghostlymoron]

Better than nothing.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Why do you want to repack it? If you are getting a weep of water coming in all you need to do is to tighten those two nuts slightly, perhaps half-a-turn. It is not a revolving shaft and doesn't really need any lubrication. If you need to tighten more than a couple of turns, consider adding a further ring of packing on top of what there is in the gland. You can do this easily while still in the water. At a later date, when the boat is on the hard, you might wish to remove the old packing and replace it; there's no hurry.

 

[Tryweryn]

Ill wait as its not pouring in just a little after a days sailing. It seems a few hours job to repack so it can wait.

 

[ghostlymoron]

If you do have to re-pack it, its best to take all the old packing out first. I have found that a small gimlet is best for this although some authorities say use a bent screw or straightened coil spring. ASAP supply suitable packing.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

The easiest tool to use for the extraction of old packing is the 'proper' one. It looks like a short corkscrew on a flexible shank (think 1x19 wire) and a Tee-handle at the end. I have had one since my apprentice days, fifty years ago but they should still be available. Size-1 should be suitable for your needs.

 

[Tryweryn]

I read that u tighten the nuts till the gland leaks slightly to cool it down. Any truth in this or do i tighten until it stops leaking?

 

[Tranona]

I read that u tighten the nuts till the gland leaks slightly to cool it down. Any truth in this or do i tighten until it stops leaking?

That is for prop shaft glands which get hot because of the power they are transmitting and the gland needs water to keep it cool.

For your application you can tighten it down as much as you like provided the rudder stock does not go stiff. as suggested above, tighten the 2 nuts about half a turn and see what happens. Expect if the packing is indeed worn you can replace it with the boat in the water as the amount f water that will come in is small and easily controlled by wrapping a rag round it while you are preparing the new packing.

 

[Tryweryn]

??Dohhh....makes sense sorry i forgot the rudder creates little work and friction hence heat. Many thanks.

 

[Tryweryn]

For future reference Moody 30 was 2 turns of 10mm