Rubbing strake or not ?

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OK ... if anyones followed my boat is due repairs - they may recall I am looking at replacing the Teak rubbing strake ...

The yard who are to do the job - have asked whether I really need the strake. Its a fair question as it actually doesn't do much except cover the Hull to Deck joint.

The joint is a channel or gulley that runs round the boat - maybe 1.0cms wide and 0.2cms deep ... so question would be - what to use to cover or fill it ?
 
Does the rubbing band protect the hull from damage.

If not I would not replace it

use a fender board on your mooring and fender to protect the hull.

If the fender board gets damaged it easy to replace
 
Alternatively, use a rubber strake, which does actually protect the boat, and will be (should be!) a lot cheaper than teak.

Costing out rubber (PVC) ... its not so cheap by time you add in end stops and the mount rail ...

Yard and I used computer to remove strake and fill in the joint area .... looked very strange ...

I don't need fender boards ... I have plenty of large fenders
 
OK ... if anyones followed my boat is due repairs - they may recall I am looking at replacing the Teak rubbing strake ...

The yard who are to do the job - have asked whether I really need the strake. Its a fair question as it actually doesn't do much except cover the Hull to Deck joint.

The joint is a channel or gulley that runs round the boat - maybe 1.0cms wide and 0.2cms deep ... so question would be - what to use to cover or fill it ?
It's a dilemma. Many boats were originally fitted with teak when availability and price were reasonable. It's all changed now. Even new Oysters don't have a wooden or aluminium rail anymore but a glass moulding. You could look at Lignia . A softwood impregnated withresin . Meant to have good looks and longevity.
 
If you ever go to the Baltic, or even the Netherlands in places, there is no substitute for a decent rubbing strake at the widest point for box moorings. You can use a rope instead, if you can really be bothered.
 
My little boat is a trailer sailer with very specific width limitations for towing on road. Thus the hull is exactly and precisely full width 2.5 m so no rubbing strake just GRP hull. Now mostly this is not a problem. The hull has been panted with 2 pack polyurethane paint which is pretty tough. However most winters there are spots I can touch up a bit due to rubbing damage. So you could just fill the gap and paint over it. If hull is painted.
On the other hand I (we) helped a friend fit new rubbing strakes to a 22fter. I don't know what sort of wood probably one of those tropical blond medium hard woods. The hull join was extending outwards by 6mm or so . He routed a groove in the wood to fit over the join. Joins were scarfed to make one piece each side. The wood was simply fitted by drilling new holes in hull through the wood then tapping the hole and fitting a screw. (above and below centre) 4mm screws I think. So drill 3mm hole through wood and hull. Open up the hole in the wood to 4mm run tap in to thread the hole in hull countersink the outside of the hole and screw in. So with helpers to hold strake in place with adequate stands to reach the job, and 5 different battery drills and a helper to hand up the correct drill. It all happened rather quickly.
So easy infact that I wonder why one would worry so much about doing a job that will last many years. easy enough to replace. ol'will
 
I've told yard that we are going for PVC profile with mount rail .....

RADIAL40 PVC Profile / black only 16,95 € | SVB

TESSILMARE RADIAL40 Holding Strip only 18,95 € | SVB

RADIAL40 Stainless Steel End Piece only 23,95 € | SVB

The only concern is that the old Teak strake is 65mm wide ... and what would be condition of GRP under ... and would a less wide strake look ok.

Not cheap but will outlast me !!

EDIT !! Yard just called and said they have found supply of Oak and they wish to fit that in keeping with the original look of the boat ....
 
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Glad your yard have found some good oak - my view, and on my boat, is that wooden rubbing strakes are fantastic. When they end up doing their job and protecting the boat it’s a quick job with sandpaper and oil to have them sorted. And the dinks and marks really do add character and tell of a boat well loved and well used. Just my 2p
 
Mine is a little different. The hull is monoque with no hull to deck joint. The toerail sits on the deck, 1" in from the edge of the hull.
The rubbing strake is a moulded in grp element with a teak rubbing strake and s/s strip screwed into the teak
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If you don't use the oak (and I'm not qualified to say whether that's good for the purpose), I would say go for rubber, not PVC.

Its a question of availability ... I am in Latvia and to get a choice means shipping in ..... in Latvia - the choice is wood or PVC profile.

I would like a contrast colour - so black is the preferred .... in PVC - this will not leave marks on any other boat - but if Rubber there's always chance of that...

TBH - given that my strake rarely touches anything as I am a great believer in fenders .... I have considered using Pine (plenty here as its Pine country !) suitably treated with anti-rot etc. But yard won't use it ... fair enough !
 
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