Round Britain - statistics and observations

[bdh198]

Not sure about the OP's problem with chain but Hanse did have the habit of locating the anchor winch poorly on earlier models so that the chain heaped up and had to be cleared. Hence the last bit of chain can be a faff as the heap of chain in the locker causes a jam.

That's how I read the OP's anchoring issues. Our Hanse has that same problem, the windless is not positioned above the deepest part of the anchor locker with the result that the chain is deposited in a part of the locker which soon fills up. This means with every 5-6 meters of chain you recover you need to physically push (or if you're at the right angle, kick) the heaped chain into the deeper part of the locker.

Sounds like it was an amazing trip!

 

[photodog]

That's how I read the OP's anchoring issues. Our Hanse has that same problem, the windless is not positioned above the deepest part of the anchor locker with the result that the chain is deposited in a part of the locker which soon fills up. This means with every 5-6 meters of chain you recover you need to physically push (or if you're at the right angle, kick) the heaped chain into the deeper part of the locker.



Sounds like it was an amazing trip!

Our Bavaria is exactly the same.

 

[Habebty]

I have been thinking about a singlehanded trip round for a while now, and after several reports of miserable weather up north (Scotland) I thought perhaps I would rather cruise Brittany/Biscay for my big trip rather than risk weeks of grey drizzle.
Has anyone singlehanded through the Caledonian Canal? Is it do-able?

 

[Sybarite]

Ah, no! it's due to the boat not being attached to the seabed for the last 10m or so of chain. I can take up to 2 minutes to retrieve it, so she goes wherever the wind/current take her, and at quite a speed.

This is an argument for having a remote windlass control that you can operate from the helm position.

 

[Kelpie]

That's how I read the OP's anchoring issues. Our Hanse has that same problem, the windless is not positioned above the deepest part of the anchor locker with the result that the chain is deposited in a part of the locker which soon fills up. This means with every 5-6 meters of chain you recover you need to physically push (or if you're at the right angle, kick) the heaped chain into the deeper part of the locker.

Sounds like it was an amazing trip!

I sometimes just use the windlass to break the anchor out, and then haul the remaining chain and anchor on deck by hand. If anchored in a normal sort of depth there's generally enough space on deck to just dump the chain, and sort it out once we have got a bit of space. I also do this when the chain is coming up very muddy as it gives me a chance to chuck a bucket over it.
I appreciate this is relatively easy for me with only a 15kg anchor, on a larger boat it would become too much like hard work.

 

[Neeves]

I
I appreciate this is relatively easy for me with only a 15kg anchor, on a larger boat it would become too much like hard work.

With everyone oversizing their better NG anchor, compared with the old gen anchor it replaces this is an increasing issue.

Spade, Manson (Racer), Fortress and Anchor Right (Excel) (and there used to be an FOB Lite) make aluminium anchors which equate to around 8kg against a 15kg steel one. If its the (higher) cost of an alloy anchor vs chiropractor fees, or the convenience of alloy v steel - then the alloy anchors win hands down.

Jonathan

 

[Tranona]

This is an argument for having a remote windlass control that you can operate from the helm position.

Better is to have a wireless remote so you can operate from anywhere on the boat, although in practice it is best to stand near the bow to watch the chain coming up.

The method I have developed also single handed with the same issue as the Hnase with the locker is to haul 5m at a time. Stop and push the pile down into the lower part of the locker. I have my chain marked with bright ties at 5m intervals so can judge when the anchor is just about to break. Then stop and clear the pile. There is then enough space to haul the last bit without it jamming until the anchor is firmly on the roller. Then calmly walk back and take the helm.

If you do it steadily there is plenty of time before the boat starts to blow off to get back. You can sort out any mess on the anchor later.

 

[Neeves]

Better is to have a wireless remote so you can operate from anywhere on the boat, although in practice it is best to stand near the bow to watch the chain coming up.

The method I have developed also single handed with the same issue as the Hnase with the locker is to haul 5m at a time. Stop and push the pile down into the lower part of the locker. I have my chain marked with bright ties at 5m intervals so can judge when the anchor is just about to break. Then stop and clear the pile. There is then enough space to haul the last bit without it jamming until the anchor is firmly on the roller. Then calmly walk back and take the helm.

If you do it steadily there is plenty of time before the boat starts to blow off to get back. You can sort out any mess on the anchor later.

I think, interpret, that the OP did not want to do this as it was time consuming and he would have been on the beach, rocks - certainly not where he intended! as he implies his rate of drift at times was simply too fast.

Ideally it would be easier if you can see the rode when you retrieve and control the yacht - not easy when the rode is in the bow and controls in the stern.

'Our' solution (when we had towering) is to retrieve the anchor from the bow until the anchor breaks out (and then retrieve a bit more) retire to the helm - make toward deeper water under low speed and autopilot - and return to the bow to retrieve the final metres. If you have windlass controls at the helm you can retrieve those final few metres from there - but unless you have a chain counter, just more money, you don't necessarily know when the anchor will 'hit' the bow roller (bright marks, yellow paint work for us, on the chain is a help).

It i already here - Blue tooth control of all critical yacht functions on one remote hand held device, engine, direction, windlass, bow thruster - and I guess anything else you want. Just another item to spend your money on - and go wrong in the fullness of time.

Jonathan

This is the Australian web site of one such device (Volvo have their own system - and they have them on large commercial vessels - it is hardly novel.

http://dockmate.com.au

But from memory it comes from Holland or Belgium and is making waves here and in America.

 

[JVL]

I have been thinking about a singlehanded trip round for a while now, and after several reports of miserable weather up north (Scotland) I thought perhaps I would rather cruise Brittany/Biscay for my big trip rather than risk weeks of grey drizzle.
Has anyone singlehanded through the Caledonian Canal? Is it do-able?

The Caledonian canal single handed is fairly common! Staff are helpful to single handers. See my YouTube channel “ Cruising with Cascade “ for an insight

John

 

[iLens]

'Our' solution (when we had towering) is to retrieve the anchor from the bow until the anchor breaks out (and then retrieve a bit more) retire to the helm - make toward deeper water under low speed and autopilot - and return to the bow to retrieve the final metres.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...cs-and-observations/page3#tlPDwhtyJP3xLczx.99.

I thought about your suggestion but I was worried about hooking something else on the way past. I also tried getting the anchor just out of the water and motoring off - resulting in a chip in the gelcoat! (BTW, this was in Acairseid Mohr on Rhona, where two other boats had come in after me. I just managed to get to the controls with the depth alarm screaming to avoid hitting a very solid looking rock)

..... control of all critical yacht functions on one remote hand held device

What a horrible thought! I'd have less electronics rather than more, if I could. The real solution is a crew member!

 

[GHA]

Congrats! And thinks for the write up, well done.

In many ways round britain is more hardcore than an atlantic circuit.

 

[Neeves]

I thought about your suggestion but I was worried about hooking something else on the way past. I also tried getting the anchor just out of the water and motoring off - resulting in a chip in the gelcoat! (BTW, this was in Acairseid Mohr on Rhona, where two other boats had come in after me. I just managed to get to the controls with the depth alarm screaming to avoid hitting a very solid looking rock)


What a horrible thought! I'd have less electronics rather than more, if I could. The real solution is a crew member!

Most rocks are not only solid looking, but are actually - solid

There is no ONE right way - there are many ways, your way was right for you - but you did know of options - and to me that's the key - there's more than one way to skin a rabbit

I agree - a second person makes it all so much easier - and the absence of that second person, or reliable second person, and a successful circumnavigation makes your voyage that much more noteworthy.

Jonathan

 

[Champagne Murphy]

ILens, read the whole blog-excellent. Well written and detailed. Can I ask a couple of questions? What does the boat draw? And when in Scarborough presumably you took the ground against the wall? Any issues there? Also your trip from GRIMsby to Wells-70 miles- a long one, how did you do for time given you were single handed?
Cheers
Murphy