Round Britain day 37

Concerto

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Oh what a grey and boring day.

The weather forecast was looking good last night to get to an ultimate place, so after checking the tide tables, I needed to set the alarm for 4am. Checking the weather again this morning, it was forecast as cyclonic 3 to 5 becoming SW 4 to 6 later, so still good for the trip. Whilst I prepared myself and Concerto, I left the curtains closed as it was raining lightly. Once I did look outside I could not believe it was quite misty. Fingers crossed the sun should soon burn that off. Slipped the berth in Vidlin at 4.45, the fastest I had done it so far on this trip.

Visibility was about mile, so not that bad and I trust the chart plotter for accuracy, otherwise I would not have moved in years gone by. Well after nearly 11 hours of motoring I am now in Burra Voe marina on Yell, only 9 miles from where I started from. So, what happened?

As I headed northward, the tide was with me, but there was almost no wind. The forward motion was sufficient to get a little drive from the mainsail, so it was hoisted. After about 10 miles, the visibility dropped to about 200 metres. As I passed to the west side of Fetlar the gap between a small island was under a mile, but as I was midway between them I could see neither. As I entered Bluemull Sound, between Yell and Unst, the distance is narrow at ½ a mile at one point. I could just see the land on both sides. Then looking astern I saw a local ferry passing to starboard.

Passing further into Bluemull Sound, the visibility improved to over a mile but the tide was against me as it is a pinch point and flowing at 2½ knots. So I headed close to shore but trying to stay close to a rocky shoreline is not fun, I tried to stay with 6 to 8 metres under the keel, but once it dropped to 4 metres, so turned away from the shore. Gradually I passed through the sound and visibilty to the west was good, but ahead it looked foggy. Changing from the Yell side to the Unst shore took a while, but was it very rough and jagged with rocks, but the fog had dropped to under 100 metres. To start, the tide weakened and after about ½ mile was with me again. Trying to keep close to the shore to cheat the tides was difficult due to the ragged nature of this shore, so as the tide changed direction I moved away from the shore for a bit more safety.

The further north I went, the fog got thicker. Not what I wanted, I wanted to see the shore. Near the top, I closed to about 75 metres from the shore and I could make out the shape of the cliffs and waves crashing on the rocks, but no detail. The lighthouse was not seen. I headed the couple of hundred metres further north to Out Stack. Making it out in the gloom, I suddenly realised there were some waves breaking over some rocks ahead, so a quick course change meant I passed these by about 25 metres, luckily I managed to video this. Then the water became quite turbulent and as I turned eastward and the water smoothed out, there were lots of gannets sitting in the water and a solitary puffin. For those of you who did not know it, Out Stack, is the most northerly point of Britain and the lighthouse is Muckle Flugga. All that effort to get there and nothing to really see, what a disappointment.

Passing along the top of Unst, the turbulence started again close to Holm of Skaw. Still motoring. the waves were almost square to the bow and quite steep. Climbing the wave mean the descent could drop the bow down. I did manage to shoot some good video of this, but missed when the bow ploughed down and water flooded over the foredeck and crashed on the coachroof as far back as the mast. Luckily this turbulence only lasted about 5 minutes before I turned southward.

Originally I had planned to go to the marina in Balta Sound, but I would be there by 13.00. I could get the bike out to visit the nearby Unst Boat Haven in Harold's Wick with its display of Shetland boats, but after checking the local weather I decided I might as well continue on to Burra Voe and be there by 15.30. However the weather had a final twist, the visibilty improved as it started to rain. Luckily it did not worry me as I had been in full oil skins all day to keep the damp away and to stay warm. Having phoned the marina, the manager was on the pontoon to take my lines as they were fitted with them hoops. I was prepared with my line reaver this time, but assistance is always better.

Tomorrow I am going to the Old Haa museum that is nearby. Hopefully the forecast is as wrong as today. Today the wind never appeared over force 2. Tomorrow there is a 25% chance of rain showers almost all day, so hoping they get that wrong.

Today has been no fun looking at a wall of grey for almost the whole day, knowing one of the sights of my trip was invisible and I used a lot of diesel to see nothing. I was so bored I ended up getting the Shetland Bus book out in the cockpit and I have now finished it.

For those wanting the final trip details, I motored for 10¾ hours and the distance was about 63 miles giving an average speed over the ground of 5.8 knots, which was close to the 5.5 knots the log was showing. The strong adverse tide in Bluemull Sound was the killer of a better overall speed as I had tide with me for almost the whole trip.

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Leaving Vidlin. No other photos are worth showing.

RB Map 15 B.jpg
 

westhinder

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Well done, but I can imagine you’re disappointed. This is one of the high points of your trip and you want to see it for yourself and take some pictures for the rest of us. You could always consider having another go if the weather becomes more favourable ?
If not, don’t despair, there is some considerable beauty ahead of you.
 

dankilb

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Do you have radar C?

Have spent hours recently assembling a ‘budget’ garmin radar upgrade (2nd hand radome, sold as broken but revived - fabricated an adaptor plate for old scanstrut and getting them both powder coated - building a wiring ‘loom’ for inside the mast…). It’s been a lot of work and cost. Sometimes I wonder if it’ll be worth it? I guess situations like this are where it could pay off?
 

srm

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Sometimes I wonder if it’ll be worth it? I guess situations like this are where it could pay off?

Depends on where you sail. Around the Northern Isles I would suggest it is almost essential; it depends how much trust you want to put in a GPS chart plotter. Also, on the west coast of Scotland it is very useful. I did the delivery trip on my current boat up through the Minch on radar. All we saw of Skye was a few rocks at sea level at the north end. Also, many other passages that I only made because I had radar including crossing the Pentland Firth. Further south it is probably less useful though I used it a fair bit for collision avoidance before AIS made that problem a bit simpler. Still use it to find CPA if AIS signal not received (Spanish fishing boats seem to use very low power AIS).
 

srm

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Hi Concerto,
Sorry to read about your experience. The Muckle Flugga is quite a spectacle when you can see it.

However, many congratulations; you now have bragging rights over the majority of "Round Britain" claimants. Just ask them what rounding the Flugga was like.

Come to think of it, other than RB&I race crews I think you are the first of quite a few claimants I have 'met' who actually rounded the top.
 

Concerto

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No I am not going round the top again, been there, done that even though I did not see it.

No, I do not have radar or AIS.

Years ago I found radar was just left sitting there unused for 98% or more of the time, and it at the time never go us out of any problem. So when you have tried it and found it OK, but not essential, then I would rather keep my boat clear of additional windage. I have found the chart plotter to be accurate enough for my needs and yesterday proved that.

I thought about fitting AIS, but again decided against as most of the sailing I do does not have much commercial shipping and have also found the radar reflector near the top of the mast is always shown on ships radar when I have asked. Shiptracker on my phone shows virtually all the main ships details and a quick call on VHF can be useful, hence how I know I am being seen besides the mark 1 eyeball.

Later I shall post a few photos taken today.
 

Slowboat35

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Just keep up this wonderful tale - please!

This thread is the most inspiring one of the year. I am deeply impressed. (as I don't think I have the moxie to do it myself)
 

Concerto

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The small marina in Burra Voe is very quiet and very sheltered, ideal in rough weather as a stopping place. It only costs £15.00 per night. If you want electricity, it is available but you will need a long cable of about 50 metres to reach the outlet. I did suggest they ought to install another outlet closer to where the visitors berth. Hopefully they will consider it along with fitting a few cleats to the visitor berths.

There is a toilet block with 2 toilets and a shower, plus a small kitchen with microwave, kettle, washing machine and tumble drier. If you use these facilities donations are requested but up to you how much you pay, if at all. The shower was very spacious. These facilities are also shared with any campers, caravans or motorhomes. I chatted with some of these visitors and everyone was friendly and there was never a queue when I went in. There is a photo below of the building as they have used an upturned boat as its roof - very traditional Shetland.

This morning I got my bike out and went to the Old Haa museum. It's only small with lots of local interest items on display. Worth visiting for just the tea shop as all the cakes are locally made and tasty. Then I rode off to look at part of the island to the west, then on my return I popped into the local shop. It must be the smallest shop I have ever been in. It only opened on the 1st December last year as another nearby shop had closed. The man who is running it is currently renovating the abandoned property alongside to become a proper shop in about 2 to 3 years time. He also does some building repairs and mends cars (ex army mechanic) as his main work. It was stocked with all the basics that locals and visitors would need. He had sufficient to tide me over.

Once back from my ride I then decided to use the laundry facilities. Every time I popped back to check how things were going, I seemed to chat to someone different. Also I used my drone as the wind had dropped for some video and photos.

This small marina is certainly one I would recommend if you are in the area.

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Burra Voe marina.

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Concerto on the end. The 2 berths inside are the visitors berths as well.

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The toilet block.

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Looking down from the hill.

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An abandoned property left to rot.

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The small local shop.
 

Neeves

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I have to apologise but I think you will regret missing Muckle Flugga. There are other spectacular sights but its isolation and its sheer audacity makes it a must see - and useful reminder of Scots engineering. I've never seen it and am very unlikely to see it - but I would make another attempt. I have no interest in bragging rights (you off all people have no need for bragging rights - you are doing it!) - but I would not miss it.

You would not visit Sydney and not see and walk across The Harbour Bridge - another audacious piece of engineering (and I'm maybe a bit odd) - but I get a bit of a thrill every time we drive over it).


We went to Georgia a few years ago (Stalin's Georgia)- and we specially went to Poti to see the lighthouse there, built in the UK from cast pieces and shipped out and reconstructed - fascinating. It was under renovation and we could not climb to the top when we there but still worth seeing, if you have fetishes in addition to anchors :)



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In any event - take care

Jonathan
 

srm

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If you go around the west side of Shetland Mainland the following may be useful.

Foula, it is possible to lie at the pier but you need to check if the ferry will be using it as not much room. Do not go if any east in the wind.

Papa Stour, (the "Hippie Island" so called due to a re-population attempt in early 70's) two anchorages, Hamnavoe and Housa Voe.

Walls, there is a pontoon for local boats but last time we anchored off the pier. (2013) Entrance channel to the south of the island of Vaila as north channel has lots of rocks.

Skeld - a nice marina with facilities. It was cheaper than the pontoon off Scalloway boating club and had much better facilities when we were there in 2013. You will need your bike to get to the nearest shop though.
 

trythalljohn

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If you go around the west side of Shetland Mainland the following may be useful.

Foula, it is possible to lie at the pier but you need to check if the ferry will be using it as not much room. Do not go if any east in the wind.

Papa Stour, (the "Hippie Island" so called due to a re-population attempt in early 70's) two anchorages, Hamnavoe and Housa Voe.

Walls, there is a pontoon for local boats but last time we anchored off the pier. (2013) Entrance channel to the south of the island of Vaila as north channel has lots of rocks.

Skeld - a nice marina with facilities. It was cheaper than the pontoon off Scalloway boating club and had much better facilities when we were there in 2013. You will need your bike to get to the nearest shop though.
 

trythalljohn

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Just a caution if you do go to Skelda Voe. The CCC plan and directions are incorrect for the best water in the approach. Probably only relevant at LW, but the best depths where it narrows are over to the west side.
 

Blueboatman

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I love the upturned boat roof- pure artistry
Concerto has quite a large group of enthusiastic virtual crew/passengers on here now!
Drone, leccy bike, Shetlands sun..perfect ?
 
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