Round Britain day 127

Concerto

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This will be the penultimate report with only a summary to follow which will include costs, as I am now back in my home berth.

After checking the tides, it was pointless to leave immediately after the engine was repaired as I would be punching the tide all the way home. So I had a lazy late lunch and then moved to the fuel berth to fill the tank as it was down to a quarter. Ended up chatting there for about half an hour as he was interested in my trip, subscribing to my YouTube channel and will be registering on this forum. So in the bright sunshine and light wind, I called up Port Control to access the Wick Channel to the main harbour. Permission was immediately granted and as I was wanting to leave by the Eastern Entrance (used by the ferries) told to call again when at the Knuckle lighthouse. Whilst motoring along, there was sufficient time to remove the fenders and warps. On my final approach I could see a ferry was approaching and listening on VHF channel 74 two ferries were perparing to leave. As the ferry entered, I contacted Port Control and I was given permission to leave as fast as possible. I left the habour at 15.50.

Once clear of the harbour I was almost head to wind, so I raised the full main and continued to motor to South Foreland. As I rounded the headland, the wind stayed on the bow and I motored very close to the wind and tacked towards North Foreland. The tide was pushing me northward at about 1½ knots, so progress was good. Closing on North Foreland the sun was setting and I took a number of photos with the strongly coloured light.

The tide was turning southward before low water and for the next two hours, I had to punch ½ to ¾ knots of tide. Unfortunately as I turned to pass on the south side of Princes Channel, the wind shifted with me. That is an almost 180 degree shift since leaving Dover. I ended up motor sailing all the way home.

Off North Foreland there were 8 ships anchored, which is far more than the usual 2 to 4 ships. There was a constant flow of commercial traffic along the Princes Channel, so I stayed just outside the channel. I kept checking Ship Tracking app on my phone to see the types of ships and where they were heading. I passed to the north of the Kentish Flats Offshore Wind Farm and then south of Red Sand Towers. As I passed the wind farm I saw on the chart plotter there was an unlit buoy which I dodged, but could not see. It was only a bit later I realised there was no buoy, it was the number 4 for 4m depth with the course to the waypoint masking the bottom of the 4. Being tired and the chart plotter being 6ft away is my excuse for this daft mistake.

The Ship Tracking app showed a tanker was heading for Thamesport and 4 tugs were dispatched from Sheerness. It did not follow the route up the Thames as I predicted, then I remembered the old Isle of Grain site in the Medway had been renamed Thamesport. I remained outside the channel as this massive 293m x 46m x 11.4m tanker approached at 14 knots. I kept a listening watch on VHF 74 and heard they were advised I was ahead. I kept close to Garrison Point and passed close inshore to the tug stationed at the point and then along the dockside. It was interesting to see how the tanker's speed dropped. She never caught up with me, but I watched from a distance as they turned her before berthing her.

Just before 2 am, I contacted Chatham Marina and they prepared the lock so I could enter as I arrived. Once in the lock, it only took a few minutes for the water levels to equalise as it was close to high water. When the lock opened and the bridge was raised, I slipped round to my berth. Fully moored by 2.30. It took a while to unwind before I went to bed. I slept from 4 till 9.30 and then again from 10.30 to 11.30, I had 5 hours 38 minutes. That was fairly good for me. During the trip my sleep per night dropped from an average of 5½ hours down to nearer 4½ hours. No wonder I have been feeling a little tired.

I have been aboard most of the day and will be here again tomorrow as my wife has been busy today and again tomorrow with her parents. So anyone local is welcome to come and have a chat tomorrow on Concerto in berth B4. You do not have to be a berth holder, just let the marina office know you are visiting me and they will allow you into the car park and on to the pontoons. Hopefully there may be a bit of a party feel as a number of berth holders should be visiting as well.

No matter how disappointed you may feel my posts of this trip are ending. I will do a review of the trip, with some of the best sailing bits, places worth visiting. the great people I have met and one place I would never return to, plus all of the costs of the trip. Yesterday I was showing the videos and photos of Fair Isle to the engineer fixing the engine, and this has motivated me to get back to editting the next parts of the trip for YouTube. If you subscribe to my channel you will be notified when new parts are loaded.

In the future I will post about the talks I will be giving. If you want I could write about some of the upgrades I have or will be doing to Concerto. Next year I will do a similar series of going to the Channel Islands and the Isles of Scilly as I am planning a shorter trip of 6 to 7 weeks.

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South Foreland

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It looks like an old shaft in the chalk

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Looking astern at Dover

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St Margaret's Bay

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Dover Patrol Memorial

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South Foreland in the distance

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Ramsgate on the left as the sun sets

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North Foreland ahead

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Clouds made warm by the setting sun

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Interesting radiating clouds over South Foreland

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Looking up the Thames close to North Foreland

RB Map 38.jpg

For anyone wanting to read the reports from the start, this is the link to first one.
Round Britian day 1
All the links with place names are in my about me page available from my avatar.
 

Biggles Wader

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Lovely pics of the White Cliffs. I believe that shaft cut into the chalk was made to assist with salvage of the cargo from the SV Preussen which was wrecked there.
 

Thistle

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Well done and many thanks for all the posts. I and, I'm sure, many others have been following your trip with interest and wishing we could do similar. Again, congratulations and thanks.
 

dunedin

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Brilliant voyage, and great reports - really enjoyed. Brilliant boats these Fulmars. And enjoyed chatting with you mid-voyage.

Each to their own, but I am amazed (indeed frankly staggered) by your comment - “During the trip my sleep per night dropped from an average of 5½ hours down to nearer 4½ hours. No wonder I have been feeling a little tired.”

As somebody who has done quite a bit of lengthy coastal singlehanded voyages through the Covid years, I was amazed that you did such long legs - then started typing long posts late into the evening. Then going long cycles on the days between sailing legs.
As my old aunt used to say, you were “burning the candle at both ends”.

Whilst my boat is slightly bigger and hence more automation (electric winch, electric windlass etc) to reduce the physical workload, plus tend to anchor most nights (vastly less effort solo than going onto a pontoon), the effort of navigating, keeping watch, sail adjustment, reefing etc continuously when solo is tiring in itself.
When sailing solo I often sleep for 10 hours or more after a long trip, and as often like to leave early, correspondingly in the bunk very early in the evening before a long leg.
(Also tend to pre-prepare as much as possible the evening before, including preparing navigation, food (breakfast and lunch) and even filling a Thermos to reheat and save time in morning, so can get from awake to underway in under 30 minutes.)

Great voyage, and clearly very experienced boat restorer and sailor. But self imposed sleep deprivation can seriously reduce both enjoyment and safety for many of us.
 

Daydream believer

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Channel Islands are great. I have been quite a few times now. But my money is on you doing another trip round in 2024.
It gets adictive.
Make it easy on yourself & do the Cally canal, but go via the French coast then the CIs then Falmouth.
Forget the Solent. The French coast gives it that "holiday" feel.
 

dunedin

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Channel Islands are great. I have been quite a few times now. But my money is on you doing another trip round in 2024.
It gets adictive.
Make it easy on yourself & do the Cally canal, but go via the French coast then the CIs then Falmouth.
Forget the Solent. The French coast gives it that "holiday" feel.
Each to their own, but to my mind going round Southern Britain via the Caledonian Canal gives you all of the long boring bits, but misses the best - the short hops around the many islands and anchorages of the NW coast of Scotland.
Certainly Concerto didn’t take any shortcuts, getting up to Muckle Flugga which is impressive.
 

Concerto

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Brilliant voyage, and great reports - really enjoyed. Brilliant boats these Fulmars. And enjoyed chatting with you mid-voyage.

Each to their own, but I am amazed (indeed frankly staggered) by your comment - “During the trip my sleep per night dropped from an average of 5½ hours down to nearer 4½ hours. No wonder I have been feeling a little tired.”

As somebody who has done quite a bit of lengthy coastal singlehanded voyages through the Covid years, I was amazed that you did such long legs - then started typing long posts late into the evening. Then going long cycles on the days between sailing legs.
As my old aunt used to say, you were “burning the candle at both ends”.

Whilst my boat is slightly bigger and hence more automation (electric winch, electric windlass etc) to reduce the physical workload, plus tend to anchor most nights (vastly less effort solo than going onto a pontoon), the effort of navigating, keeping watch, sail adjustment, reefing etc continuously when solo is tiring in itself.
When sailing solo I often sleep for 10 hours or more after a long trip, and as often like to leave early, correspondingly in the bunk very early in the evening before a long leg.
(Also tend to pre-prepare as much as possible the evening before, including preparing navigation, food (breakfast and lunch) and even filling a Thermos to reheat and save time in morning, so can get from awake to underway in under 30 minutes.)

Great voyage, and clearly very experienced boat restorer and sailor. But self imposed sleep deprivation can seriously reduce both enjoyment and safety for many of us.
I have always been someone who never sleeps a lot. In normal working life I would only sleep for 6 to 6½ hours, so the 8 hour norm has never been usual for me. I have always been acused of burning the candle at both ends. After a late breakfast and check on the forum today, I felt sleepy. Dropped off for nearly 2 hours, so I do listen to what my body is saying.

Strangely I never find singlehanded sailing that tiring, nor the distances I have sailed. Once the boat is set up on a course, I take time to relax, usually sitting with my eyes closed for short periods, but never sleeping. The FitBit keeps a check on my activity and most sailing/cycling days are in the region of 200 to 250 minutes active activity with about 18,000 to 22,000 steps (the FitBit in on my wrist). My activity shows I am using between 2500 to 4000 calories per day, compared to the norm of 2000 to 2500. More interestingly my resting heart rate is between 56 to 62 beats per minute. Most adults are in the range of 60 to 100 beats and athletes are in the range of 40 to 60 beats, so I must be quite fit. In my mid 30's I used to go to the gym 3 times a week and after most strenuous activities my heart rate dropped back to normal in a few minutes. I know my breathing rate is also slower than most. Compared to my wife whilst resting in bed, I take 2 breaths to her 3. She has commented that I sometimes have a very slow breath rate and she listens to see I am actually breathing. Again years ago I used to do a lot of swimming underwater and pushed to see how far I could go. Another party trick of mine is I have difficulty in floating in a pool due to my muscle weigh, and I can half empty my lungs and sink to the bottom of a swimming pool and lie there static for about half a minute.

Over the years I have evolved my routines to minimise lots of activities onboard. Navigation can be over planned. I need to know what the tides are doing and plan my journey from the tidal atlas, but estimates of boat speed are always difficult to get right. Usually I arrive quicker than planned, which rarely causes a problem. Only twice on this trip did I miss a tidal gate, but the wind was not as predicted and made the route a full beat rather than a close fetch. Usually I know where I am planning to arrive, but sometimes I do make changes due to weather. Being so flexible can cause major problems if trying to keep to a plan. Normally I do not enter waypoints on the chart plotter, but use the go to cursor function. Having the plotter in the cockpit is a massive benefit, however touch screens are useless with wet fingers, luckily mine has some buttons that helps in rough weather. For virtually the whole trip I did not carry paper charts. Using major harbours/marinas, rather than anchorages, was my main plan for the trip. I carried no specific cruising guides, except for the Orkney and Shetlands, but used the Cruising Association Almanac and their CAptain's Mate app extensively. Entering many harbours I would also study the Google Maps, in satelite view, for a good understanding of the harbour layout, especially pontoons.

Many of you will find my food choices different to the general norm. I rarely drink hot drinks, so a thermos is not needed. For an early start I will frequently eat after leaving and breakfast is a choice of malt loaf, toast or cereal bars. Whilst sailing my most important thing is keeping a bottle of water in the cockpit so I can remain hydrated. Sometimes I might have a sandwich, but prefer a scotch egg with crisps and grapes. Whilst sailing I have a supply of snacking food like bananas, nuts and chocolate. If the trip is going to have a late arrival time then emergency rations come into play. Depending on how rough it is the choice is sweet and sour pot noodle, toast with either sardines of salmon paste, or tinned meat with either rice or tinned potatoes and peas. These are all fast to prepare and I find satisfying. If I arrive at a more regular time, then I cook fresh meat or fish with fresh vegetables. Some meals can be cooked and then a portion can be kept chilled for a later day. My diet is fairly well balanced. Rarely do I eat ashore or have takeaways, I prefer to buy better quality produce instead and cook aboard.

No doubt some of you will find this interesting and will comment on it.
 

Concerto

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Channel Islands are great. I have been quite a few times now. But my money is on you doing another trip round in 2024.
It gets adictive.
Make it easy on yourself & do the Cally canal, but go via the French coast then the CIs then Falmouth.
Forget the Solent. The French coast gives it that "holiday" feel.
I doubt if I will do another round Britain trip. I want to do a round Ireland trip, explore the Scottish Western Islands in some detail, passage though the Caledonian Canal, return to the Orkneys and Shetland and explore the North East coast of England a bit more. Part of this will be easier once I move from Kent to Cheshire, this would mean moving Concerto to SW Scotland. The only downside will be a 5 hour drive to the boat rather than a 25 minute drive, so I would be planning for longer periods onboard.

The Solent is too busy for my liking, besides I have visited most of the hot spots there over the past decades, so can easily miss them out.
 
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