[70521]
Well-Known Member
I'd be interested in the logic of using a waterproofing agent.
ropes
- Thread starter cherod
- Start date
Refueler
Well-Known Member
I wash mine every year ....
My sequence is :
1. Coil to suitable diameter of washing machine
2. Secure with light cord is best (easier to cut this after wash ! If not then use cable ties - DO NOT CUT EXCESS tie ... the cut end will catch on rope and cause the 'hernias' people talk about) ...
3. I use about 1/10 the powder a normal wash uses .. just enough to remove the crap.
4. I try to remove any additions to the ropes - but if not - then secure them to the coils to stop them bashing about. REMOVE any split rings / pins or jaggy bits.
5. I even give them a slow to medium spin !!
TBH - there's a lot of BS talked about this and at end of day ... its simple and effective.
Put it this way - there's more damage done to ropes NOT washed - by way of the grit and salt that gets into the lay and grinding away at the strands. Washing will remove most and allow the rope to work properly again.
It is true that strands are subject to treatment - BUT also take note - a rope actually works by virtue of FRICTION and twist between strands and layers.
My sequence is :
1. Coil to suitable diameter of washing machine
2. Secure with light cord is best (easier to cut this after wash ! If not then use cable ties - DO NOT CUT EXCESS tie ... the cut end will catch on rope and cause the 'hernias' people talk about) ...
3. I use about 1/10 the powder a normal wash uses .. just enough to remove the crap.
4. I try to remove any additions to the ropes - but if not - then secure them to the coils to stop them bashing about. REMOVE any split rings / pins or jaggy bits.
5. I even give them a slow to medium spin !!
TBH - there's a lot of BS talked about this and at end of day ... its simple and effective.
Put it this way - there's more damage done to ropes NOT washed - by way of the grit and salt that gets into the lay and grinding away at the strands. Washing will remove most and allow the rope to work properly again.
It is true that strands are subject to treatment - BUT also take note - a rope actually works by virtue of FRICTION and twist between strands and layers.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Forgive me - I do not wish to sound rude ... but there is some real BS stuff out there for people to waste their hard earned on !! This joins that club in my opinion !
Malish
Well-Known Member
each to their own - it reduces water retention by the interior of the rope making the rope lighter on a wet day
Refueler
Well-Known Member
and ?
cherod
N/A
thank you ,, i certainly would have had i known about it ,,, nxt time
PilotWolf
Well-Known Member
I think conditioner will do the same Try washing a towel one with and one without - see which absorbs the water easier.
W
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Lets be honest .... there are very few ropes that actually ABSORB water ..... and they are natural fibre such as COIR etc.
Modern ropes RETAIN water between strands / layup because the poly's are not absorbent ...
cherod
N/A
thank you for all replys and advice ,, what i did was soak with plenty of powder and Fairy in the bath overnite then just gave a normal ( i think ) wash in the machine , 3 loads in total , no overloading , with again plenty of powder and fairy ,( i didnt know about the waterproofing or i would have used it ) they all come out looking as new , no knots or fankling or destroyed ends , hernias etc , only time will tell about structural integrity tho it is heartening to read of others also using the washing machine and soap .. now just got to pull them all throo again !!,, still to do a few halyards .
Refueler
Well-Known Member
I would suggest next time - you can save yourself all that time .... just a simple wash cycle in the machine with a small amount of powder only .... no softeners or overnight soaks etc.
My running gear is well over 20years old and still in good condition ... except for genny sheets that suffer from the cap shrouds ... so they get reversed each year to even out the wear and tear.
I am only replacing this year because I want to reduce the size of ropes used - they are maximum size for the halyard sheaves in mast ... and way oversized at 12mm - so will replace with 10mm . The old will be used as mooring and general purpose lines .....
cherod
N/A
thank you , but no effort really ,, AND,, you did not see my ropes !!
PilotWolf
Well-Known Member
True, my point was more about agreeing this seems to be money better spent elsewhere.
W.
Malish
Well-Known Member
it is clearly not something that you are interested in trying, but have an opinion on...
cherod
N/A
tbh , i was wondering, to save any effort ,, has anyone ever tried just dragging them along in the water behind the boat for a while , a hour or so , depending on level of dirtyness ??
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Its actually not such a daft idea ... the old way of removing mould from sails was to drag along behind in seawater ... same for ropes. BUT it would be advisable to freshwater rinse them all after to try and remove the salts that will be in the lay.... sails ...
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Yep ... true ... just pains me to see people wasting good money .... but yer pays yer money ...
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Absolutely ..... always mazes me the rubbish that gets put on market to squeeze hard earned out of people !
Refueler
Well-Known Member
thank you , but no effort really ,, AND,, you did not see my ropes !!
Oh - I can imagine .... my ropes always come out pristine ...
The only gear I overnight soak are sails .... that's in a weak Bleach solution and then good plain water wash in the bath ...
cherod
N/A
not so sure about that , the expense can not be that great in fact it is prob quite small , might be worth it if it helps maintain the rope ,, which IS bloody expensive .. ( but hey , i dont know )
cherod
N/A
bloody hell , what do you soak them in ?? , i would need a swing pool