Roll and tipping polyurethane paint.

[coopec]

When I painted my yacht I spent well over a week building a primitive (but safe) scaffolding around the yacht. My son and I tried rolling and tipping but it was hopeless so we sprayed the paint getting a reasonable job.

When I told the paint manufacturer of our problems his jaw dropped and he said "but you told me you were spraying the paint". (I don't remember telling him that but I could have)

He explained there there are X3 types of "Part B" - fast for spray painting, a slow one (for cold weather?) and the slowest (for rolling and tipping)

But of course you'd still need scaffolding. I built up a collapsible/mobile (on wheels) scaffold which would be ideal for the job but it cost $500 for welding.

I am now using the polyurethane (with slowest Part B) to paint the rain diverters and I am convinced I would have no trouble at all rolling and tipping the hull if I had to paint the hull again. I have no idea what it would cost to have a hull painted professionally but I bet it wouldn't be cheap.

 

[Laminar Flow]

5000 Euro for a 32'x11' to have a hull professionally painted (NL). The yard used a brush and a two part polyurethane . The finish was as mirror perfect as if sprayed.
Job lasts 5-8 years, I was told. Dark colours are less durable.

I have also seen a boat that had been rolled without stipping. Glass like finish. The owner, who had done the job himself, used 4% flow agent to achieve this result. Single part urethane.

 

[coopec]

5000 Euro for a 32'x11' to have a hull professionally painted (NL). The yard used a brush and a two part polyurethane . The finish was as mirror perfect as if sprayed.
Job lasts 5-8 years, I was told. Dark colours are less durable.

I have also seen a boat that had been rolled without stipping. Glass like finish. The owner, who had done the job himself, used 4% flow agent to achieve this result. Single part urethane.

Several years I read an article by a guy who painted boats professionally (amongst other services). He came across a yacht that had been rolled and tipped and was most impressed. Now that's what he does - no more spray painting!

For a large boat you'd need a safe platform to work on and I doubt that a sheet of ply resting on top of 200litre drums fits the bill

 

[Laminar Flow]

Several years I read an article by a guy who painted boats professionally (amongst other services). He came across a yacht that had been rolled and tipped and was most impressed. Now that's what he does - no more spray painting!

For a large boat you'd need a safe platform to work on and I doubt that a sheet of ply resting on top of 200litre drums fits the bill

The surest route to success lies in meticulous preparation. I don't think though that I would spend a week building a scaffolding. I'd rent the lot or even a mobile unit and have it all set up in a couple of hours.

 

[coopec]

I know what you mean and I thought of that but I'm 150km out of town and they are not cheap. (Space between the yacht and the side fence is also a problem)

 

[Stemar]

Jissel's topsides were rolled and tipped about 16 years ago with a two part paint, can't remember which one. When newly done it was indistinguishable from gelcoat from anything over 3 or 4 metres away. When I sold her, there were 16 years' worth of docking dings and scrapes, and it was time to do it again, but I reckon that, dings apart, a good polish would have brought it up again.

As for scaffolding, would something like this do the job?

Mac Allister 2-Section 4-Way Aluminium Combination Ladder With Platform 2.65m

Even if I had the metalworking skills, I doubt I could build anything similar for the price

 

[coopec]

Jissel's topsides were rolled and tipped about 16 years ago with a two part paint, can't remember which one. When newly done it was indistinguishable from gelcoat from anything over 3 or 4 metres away. When I sold her, there were 16 years' worth of docking dings and scrapes, and it was time to do it again, but I reckon that, dings apart, a good polish would have brought it up again.

As for scaffolding, would something like this do the job?

Mac Allister 2-Section 4-Way Aluminium Combination Ladder With Platform 2.65m

Even if I had the metalworking skills, I doubt I could build anything similar for the price

Stemar

I was looking at something like that initially but I felt the McAllister types were too short as my yacht is 13.5M.

But now I've used the two part polyurethane with a slow Part B I would not be so sure. It's good that you could dismantle the scaffold and store somewhere for future use.

Here is a photo of my mobile scaffold which is 4m long and can be dismantled for storage or transport. It looks "tatty" but that's because whenever I have a bit of paint leftover I slap it on the scaffold.

 

[Hoist]

Myself and a friend rolled this with International Perfection Pro.

No tipping required. Lots of prep involved, 8-9 coats

Did it inside with heat and a tent.

 

[Kukri]

I am going to have to do something about the topsides. They were professionally sprayed with Awlgrip in 2012. The problem is that they are red. Or at least they were. The side that gets the sun in the marina berth turns blotchy pink. Polish it and after a lot of effort the boat is bright red for at least a week.

I dread to think what another professional Awlgrip paint job would cost, and if it did no better it would be money down the drain.

Painting boats with brushes and rollers is something I’m good at, and to be honest I’ve missed it since I sold my last wooden boat. I think I’d rather spend money on a good working platform than on a yard paint job.

What are my options?

I spent today helping my sons paint my younger son’s 54 year old Squib with alkyd paints, viz, Epifanes brilliant red enamel topsides over grey undercoat, Interdeck deck paint and Danboline inside. She looks pretty good and has been painted that way for decades.

Or there are the two pots…

 

[Caraway]

Look at any red Vauxhall Corsa over a few years old. It is the most fade-prone pigment.
Worse still, it bleeds through most colours if overpainted.
Green is the least fade-prone.

 

[Kukri]

Look at any red Vauxhall Corsa over a few years old. It is the most fade-prone pigment.
Worse still, it bleeds through most colours if overpainted.
Green is the least fade-prone.

Thanks. Good points on both the fade and the bleed through. I think I’m stuck with red - the boat has been red for 46 years now

I did threaten to paint the port side red and the starboard side green but the family said they would disown me!

 

[Poey50]

Another vote for International Protection Pro. Just flows on with a roller .. no tipping and looks sprayed.

 

[Laminar Flow]

I am going to have to do something about the topsides. They were professionally sprayed with Awlgrip in 2012. The problem is that they are red. Or at least they were. The side that gets the sun in the marina berth turns blotchy pink. Polish it and after a lot of effort the boat is bright red for at least a week.

I dread to think what another professional Awlgrip paint job would cost, and if it did no better it would be money down the drain.

Painting boats with brushes and rollers is something I’m good at, and to be honest I’ve missed it since I sold my last wooden boat. I think I’d rather spend money on a good working platform than on a yard paint job.

What are my options?

I spent today helping my sons paint my younger son’s 54 year old Squib with alkyd paints, viz, Epifanes brilliant red enamel topsides over grey undercoat, Interdeck deck paint and Danboline inside. She looks pretty good and has been painted that way for decades.

Or there are the two pots…

The original colour of our boat was d'green - it did not survive a few years of UV in the Med. A previous owner then had her "professionally" sprayed with white Awlgrip - not a good job either as there are more than a few paint runs near the stern.

It is now on the time to giver her a new coat which I will apply myself with roller and brush. From what I saw at the yard where we kept our boat in Holland it is perfectly feasible to achieve an excellent finish by hand.

I will use a two pot system which is far harder and more able to withstand abuse and fender rash. It should also be noted that you can paint single pot over a two pot finish, but never a two pot over single. In this case the single pot would have to be sanded off entirely. The yard in Holland swore by Epifanes.

 

[geem]

I am going to have to do something about the topsides. They were professionally sprayed with Awlgrip in 2012. The problem is that they are red. Or at least they were. The side that gets the sun in the marina berth turns blotchy pink. Polish it and after a lot of effort the boat is bright red for at least a week.

I dread to think what another professional Awlgrip paint job would cost, and if it did no better it would be money down the drain.

Painting boats with brushes and rollers is something I’m good at, and to be honest I’ve missed it since I sold my last wooden boat. I think I’d rather spend money on a good working platform than on a yard paint job.

What are my options?

I spent today helping my sons paint my younger son’s 54 year old Squib with alkyd paints, viz, Epifanes brilliant red enamel topsides over grey undercoat, Interdeck deck paint and Danboline inside. She looks pretty good and has been painted that way for decades.

Or there are the two pots…

Our boat has recently been professionally Awgripped in white. They then sprayed cleacote on top for better UV protection. It should last year's. Red is the worst colour you can spray a boat from a UV deterioration perspective.

 

[Kukri]

Two years, to the day, from this:


To this:


I suppose I could have her painted a sensible colour. But it wouldn’t feel right. She’s been red for 46 years. And if we went for sensible white and the red were to bleed through - is “raspberry ripple” a respectable hue?

It’s really a question of whether the endless polishing is more work than repainting.

 

[Hoist]

Painting boats with brushes and rollers is something I’m good at, and to be honest I’ve missed it since I sold my last wooden boat. I think I’d rather spend money on a good working platform than on a yard paint job.

What are my options?

I spent today helping my sons paint my younger son’s 54 year old Squib with alkyd paints, viz, Epifanes brilliant red enamel topsides over grey undercoat, Interdeck deck paint and Danboline inside. She looks pretty good and has been painted that way for decades.

Or there are the two pots…

I can only speak for international perfection pro and I consider it black magic when it comes to paint. My Mrs will not even let me paint a bathroom wall because I am the world's worst painter. I am a spanners and engine oil guy. I don't do neat or clean but honestly perfection pro does all the hard work.

It's tedious but you would only have to do 6 coats with the hull that doesn't need faired

International support are extremely helpful with advice and a real person with experience answers the phone!

as long as your base surface is good then this is the process for a mirror finish. You "can" skip a couple of the inbetween sands but this is the technique to give you a mirror

sand 180
primer
sand 400
primer
sand 400
primer
sand 400
perfection pro
perfection pro
sand 400
perfection pro

I was given a rough quote from a professional boat painter of around £3k-£4k and that was for a 28ft boat.

With all the fairing we required we decided on doing it ourselves.

 

[Kukri]

I can only speak for international perfection pro and I consider it black magic when it comes to paint. My Mrs will not even let me paint a bathroom wall because I am the world's worst painter. I am a spanners and engine oil guy. I don't do neat or clean but honestly perfection pro does all the hard work.

It's tedious but you would only have to do 6 coats with the hull that doesn't need faired

International support are extremely helpful with advice and a real person with experience answers the phone!

as long as your base surface is good then this is the process for a mirror finish. You "can" skip a couple of the inbetween sands but this is the technique to give you a mirror

sand 180
primer
sand 400
primer
sand 400
primer
sand 400
perfection pro
perfection pro
sand 400
perfection pro

I was given a rough quote from a professional boat painter of around £3k-£4k and that was for a 28ft boat.

With all the fairing we required we decided on doing it ourselves.



View attachment 121429

Thanks. That’s a powerful recommendation and in fact that painting sanding and fairing scheme is just what I would consider normal for a wooden boat with Epifanes one pot.

Incidentally I am just the other way round - happy and confident with wood and paint but won’t touch electrics, refrigeration or engines!

 

[Hoist]

Moody 28 Resurrection - starting at the deep end Arrow & Aztec | YBW Forum

If you look on that you can see how much work we put in and the whole transformation of both boats

We had to put interprotect on because of the filler.

I would recommend more primer coats if you want a stronger colour or more depth.

International says 3 minimum. I think you could do 4 with the red boat and it would help with colour retention but thats really a question for them

I found that the 3 final coats of perfection pro are basically almost a clear laquer and only add the shine factor. The perfection pro layers hardly cover anything up but the shine is unbelievable.

 

[rib]

The original colour of our boat was d'green - it did not survive a few years of UV in the Med. A previous owner then had her "professionally" sprayed with white Awlgrip - not a good job either as there are more than a few paint runs near the stern.

It is now on the time to giver her a new coat which I will apply myself with roller and brush. From what I saw at the yard where we kept our boat in Holland it is perfectly feasible to achieve an excellent finish by hand.

I will use a two pot system which is far harder and more able to withstand abuse and fender rash. It should also be noted that you can paint single pot over a two pot finish, but never a two pot over single. In this case the single pot would have to be sanded off entirely. The yard in Holland swore by Epifanes.

I believe you can get a barrier coat for the two pot one pot problem. And for bleeding issues... That said the top coat is only as good as what's underneath !!

 

[Kukri]

Moody 28 Resurrection - starting at the deep end Arrow & Aztec | YBW Forum

If you look on that you can see how much work we put in and the whole transformation of both boats

We had to put interprotect on because of the filler.

I would recommend more primer coats if you want a stronger colour or more depth.

International says 3 minimum. I think you could do 4 with the red boat and it would help with colour retention but thats really a question for them

I found that the 3 final coats of perfection pro are basically almost a clear laquer and only add the shine factor. The perfection pro layers hardly cover anything up but the shine is unbelievable.

Thanks. A good read.

I think I am forming a plan.