alanporter
New member
Does anyone know the correct tensions for the standing rigging on a Westerly Renown ketch ?
Alan Porter
Alan Porter
rigging tension
- Thread starter alanporter
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As far as the shrouds are concerned I'd say just tight enough to prevent the leeward shrouds sagging under sail.
Regards,
Peter
http://www.mistressofmourne.com
Regards,
Peter
http://www.mistressofmourne.com
oldharry
Well-known member
Agree with ptk, rigging should not sag or look slack on the leeward side. It is important that the rig is balanced - that there is pretty well the same amount of tension on each opposing part, and that the mast is vertical.
To check for vertical, slacken the lower shrouds, and using a haliard or other length of line, check that the distance from masthead to the gunwale is the same both sides. Adjust cap shrouds accordingly. If the mast is not vertical you will find she sails well on one tack, and badly on the other!
Set up the inner shrouds to about the same tension as the caps, and make sure there is no bend in the mast, by sighting up the mast track, and adjusting accordingly. This can be quite fiddly to get it right, but the main sail luff needs to be straight for it to set properly.
Now go for a sail on a brisk day, and check that the mast remains straight when the main is drawing well. If all the rigging remains taught, and the mast track remains true, then all is well. If it is bowing in the middle, the lowers need to be tightened all round. If the top half above the spreaders is bending the cap shrouds are not tight enough. Fore and aft bend likewise is dealt with by the 'Fore and Back stays, which may need to be tighter than the cap shrouds because of the foresail load.
Unless you have very oversize bottle screws, overtightening is unlikely to be a problem - unless you try adjusting the shrouds while heeled under way, when the slight give in the system would allow you to overtighten the leeward screws, then when you go about, you tighten the leeward screws again....
Everything should be tight enough to stop sagging or bending, on a cruising boat. If you intend to race then the rig will need much finer tuning to be competitive.
This is a VERY BRIEF summary of a subject which can fill many books - but at least your boat will sail reasonably well, and the mast will not fall down. And I do not doubt the racing purists will howl at such simplicity of approach, but it works! My mast has never fallen down, but I have never won a race yet! (Probably because I only ever raced once - in a Westerly Nomad, which came in 2 hours behind the rest of the fleet....)
To check for vertical, slacken the lower shrouds, and using a haliard or other length of line, check that the distance from masthead to the gunwale is the same both sides. Adjust cap shrouds accordingly. If the mast is not vertical you will find she sails well on one tack, and badly on the other!
Set up the inner shrouds to about the same tension as the caps, and make sure there is no bend in the mast, by sighting up the mast track, and adjusting accordingly. This can be quite fiddly to get it right, but the main sail luff needs to be straight for it to set properly.
Now go for a sail on a brisk day, and check that the mast remains straight when the main is drawing well. If all the rigging remains taught, and the mast track remains true, then all is well. If it is bowing in the middle, the lowers need to be tightened all round. If the top half above the spreaders is bending the cap shrouds are not tight enough. Fore and aft bend likewise is dealt with by the 'Fore and Back stays, which may need to be tighter than the cap shrouds because of the foresail load.
Unless you have very oversize bottle screws, overtightening is unlikely to be a problem - unless you try adjusting the shrouds while heeled under way, when the slight give in the system would allow you to overtighten the leeward screws, then when you go about, you tighten the leeward screws again....
Everything should be tight enough to stop sagging or bending, on a cruising boat. If you intend to race then the rig will need much finer tuning to be competitive.
This is a VERY BRIEF summary of a subject which can fill many books - but at least your boat will sail reasonably well, and the mast will not fall down. And I do not doubt the racing purists will howl at such simplicity of approach, but it works! My mast has never fallen down, but I have never won a race yet! (Probably because I only ever raced once - in a Westerly Nomad, which came in 2 hours behind the rest of the fleet....)
JeremyF
New member
If you are based in the Solent, then I would recommend paying XW marine at Haslar to do it. Rigging is their main business. They have the right kit. They come when they say, and charged me £90 after my mast was stepped.
Jeremy Flynn
Jeremy Flynn
johnt
New member
I find that using a halyard is very iffy ...to many variables in the build ! just stand well back and sight a plumb line against your mast ...AFTER you have the deck pretty well level!
oldharry
Well-known member
Interested to know how other people do it. How the heck do you keep a boat properly level for long enough to walk away and site it with a plumb line? I used to try to do it that way, but seemed never to get it right. I agree too that the variables in the Halyard method are sufficient to make it a bit 'iffy', but reckon it to be more accurate than most, with a bit of care.
Ideas anyone?
Ideas anyone?
Strathglass
New member
I always use a halyard. It really depends on the stretch in the halyard. I also use a weight on the end of the main halyard to determine mast rake at the gooseneck ( on a windless day ).
I also have a tension gauge from my dinghy days for up to 4mm wire. However I now need one for 8mm.
Iain
I also have a tension gauge from my dinghy days for up to 4mm wire. However I now need one for 8mm.
Iain