Rigging screw pins

PabloPicasso

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What is the proper way to fit the split pins in bottle screws?

Should we be able to adjust the screw with the pins in (i.e., the pins are there to prevent the screw from undoing completey).

Or should the pins prevent the bottle scew from adjusting itself once the correct tensions are set?

I've seen many different installations and some have pins bent around the threads of the screw inside the fitting, others have the pins bent around the outside of the bottlw screw to prevent it turning once set.
 
Always done mine to stop any movement once tension is set. Both legs of pin curved back on themselves so sharp ends are inside rigging screw and won’t catch on anything.
 
Someone will probably jump on me for this, but now I have a much smaller trailer sailer, I use ss R clips correctly sized to stop the screw rotating. The R clips are held in place by using self amalgamating tape at the moment. I have used normal insulation tape in the past though. The mast is dropped at the end of the season for trailing the boat. I do regular checks on the rigging anyway as part of my safety checks. If rig needs adjusting, occasionally happens after launch at the begining of season, its much easier to do whilst sailing with R clips fitted.
 
I don't use split pins. I find you can't position them easily to stop you catching yourself or something on them. Tape looks awful and doesn't last. Instead I use 1mm 316 welding wire. I pass the wire through the hole in the thread and wrap it around the body of the bottles crew in a figure of eight patern. I then grip both wire ends and twisted them together. Cut off the excess and tuck it into the middle of the bottlescrew. No catching and a secure installation. I also like the look of it when it's done well with night tight wires
 
I never understood what the split pins are meant to achieve, or how, so I use a split ring through the pin and around one leg of the body. Nothing to catch on anything, and no way it can rotate.
 
I have open bodied rigging screws which i assume OP has. The ends of the threaded part have a hole through sideways. I use long split pins long enough to impeded on the rigging screw body so stop rotation. Yes a key ring style ring would work really well if it was around the body leg as well as the screw hole. You could just use locking wire through the hole and around the body leg. (What ever you have to hand) But yes any turning should be stopped. In my case the screw end (RH thread) suppllied swaged to the wire did not have a hole through the end so I use a locking nut. Much more convenient for tension adjustment.
Bronze closed body rigging screws will have a hole sideways through the middle. This should be used with locking wire down to toggle or use locking nuts top and bottom.
ol'will
 
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