Rigging replacement - how much?

[fjweaver]

I'm looking to buy a 12 year old Westerley (approx 28ft) and the running & standing rigging will need to be replaced. I want to take this into account when I make an offer.

Does anyone have an idea approximately how much it would cost to get a rigger to do?

Although seemingly in good condition it isn't epoxied - i'm not sure how important that would be - again I would appreciate an estimate of that cost
many thanks

 

[philip_stevens]

I had to have a new mast and rigging two years ago, after the stbd cap shroud parted and the mast bent.

The cost of the rigging and setting up, is £'s:
set of standing rigging 596
dress, step, tune 150
strip and reassemble furling gear 211
wiring and fitting electric's 200

The total cost including new running rigging, cranage [2 way] new aerial and Hawk, new
trilight etc. was £3780.

The mast (for a Konsort) was £1244
carriage 160

Hope this helps.

regards,
Philip

 

[ccscott49]

If you already have the rigging, it's a simple process to get all the wire you need in one length form a wholesale supplier, not a marine one! cut it yourself and have the swages done, then re-rig the lot yourself, fitting running rigging is easy, re-wireing is easy, basically do it yourself, and save pounds! I don't know how much it costs to do it proffesionally, never had it done.

 

[oldharry]

I agree with CCS - I have re rigged several of my boats buying the wire bulk, then getting the swages done. Its very straightforward. Nowadays I have access to a swaging machine, and my present boat I saved even more by doing the swages myself - and the mast is still up! Its a bit more difficult even when you know how to use the machine, because you have to get the wire lengths spot on - not so easy with springy s/s wire!

Running rigging is easier still! All you do is to measure each piece of rope. Buy whatever length you need, and cut it using a knife heated in a gas flame. Eyes are readilyavailable from chandleries and take minutes to splice or whip in.

Dont forget to replace all the various clevis pins and their split pins.

The last boat I re-rigged (a 20 foot trailer sailer) cost less than £100 all in for standing and running rigging.

 

[Guest]

Given that you want a value to negotiate around, I would say that a grand would cover it.

My last standing rigging for a similarly sized boat was about £450 four years ago; that was taking the shrouds to the rigger.

Running rigging, as indicated by the other contributers is easy, but if you were to get a yard to do it you are into hundreds, so negotiate around the grand.

As for epoxy... if the survey shows the hull to be in good nick, then there is no problem. But take it back to the bare hull and add a protective coat as soon as is practical.

Good luck.

KCA

 

[lezgar]

Epoxy

If the hull is in good condition after 12 years without epoxy left alone.

Take off the antifouling is a nightmare, you can damage the gelcoat and epoxy have strong solvents (you can't apply gelshield 200 to a hull without gelcoat).
Epoxy is not totally waterproof with the hull in the water but will avoid the natural dry of the hull when the boat is out of the water (all GRP hulls take some water).

 

[claymore]

Standing and running rigging for a 25ft boat done professionally using kevlar for the halliards cost £1200. (1997/8)
Add the cost of inflation and the increase for a boat 3ft longer and I'd say you need to be negotiating for a chip off the asking price of £1500.
Hope that helps

regards
JohnS

 

[philip_stevens]

Mine was an insurance claim - paid out promptly by GJW-Direct.

regards,
Philip

 

[Calluna]

Just replaced all the rigging on our 28ft Cobra (masthead rig with 10.3m mast), which we bought in December. Due to a total lack of time, we had the standing rigging replaced by Southern Spars and Rigging (Southampton), which cost about £600 all in (inc. VAT). I don't know whether their prices are competitive, they were the riggers that the boatyard who repaired our boat used and they have done a good job. As for the running rigging, Alladins Cave in Deacons Boatyard, Bursledon were the cheapest that I could find in the Portsmouth/Southampton area. The 3 halyards and topping lift cost me £100 (marlow braid ropes with eye splices)

Our boat is 19 years old and was epoxied when new. We were prepared to have the bottom re-epoxied as a precaution anyway and then the survey showed that the hull moisture readings were higher that we were happy with. The treatment cost about £3000 (including lift, launch, slurry blast, drying out the hull, storage, antifouling and a few other small bits of work). We wouldn't have bothered if the moisture readings had been low, and the lowest quote we had for doing the work was around £1500. For various reasons, we had all the work done by one of the companies at Port Solent and didn't go for the cheapest option.

 

[VMALLOWS]

I'm just about to tackle this job on my Sadler29.
What do you think of the relative cost/benefits between paying to have the swaging done (unknown quality?) or using Norseman/Stalock which I'm happy to do myself.

Any idea what the current going rate for 8mm S/S is on the (non marine ) market?