Retro-fitting shore power

Memphis_Chung

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Hi team,

I want to be able to "plug-in" my boat to shore power. Rather than use shore power to power a 240v extension lead, I would love to be able to run the lights, radio etc and charge the batteries in the marina whilst having the extension lead for non-boat appliances (wife's hair dryer/hoover etc). How big a job is it?

Thanks!

Memphis

<hr width=100% size=1>Quit the job, sell the house, sell the kids, sell your wife, go sailing.......
 

Memphis_Chung

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Of course I would be asking an electrician to do it, but I am keen to know how big a job it is re cost and for my own interest.

Helpful replies only please!


<hr width=100% size=1>Quit the job, sell the house, sell the kids, sell your wife, go sailing.......
 

ChrisE

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We had that done about five years ago and fitted an invertor/charger unit at the same time. As far as I can recall the sparks put in the socket for the shore power, an inline circuit breaker and then wired in the invertor/charger. He put in four 240 volt sockets, two from the invertor and two from the shore power line. The sparks was on the boat for a day I think and the cost of materials was about £200 excluding the invertor/charger which was about £1000.

Chris

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ashanta

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What an answer to a reasonable question! Thats what PBO reader to reader forum is all about. Asking for practical help and advice.

Peter.

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charles_reed

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Fitting a ring main

I did my own - cost of 100m of 2.5mm cable, 8 waterproof sockets, a 15 amp 12 volt pulse charger and the RCD came to just on £210.

The biggest challenge is threading the cable through lockers and bilges - the whole took about 16 man-hours.

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AIDY

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I did this on our boat last year. I bought a HiTec Integral unit from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.power-store.com> power store </A> approx 200 pounds (look under battery chargers and then product). It's all you need in one box apart from sockets and wire which I bought from my local DIY store.

Keeping it simple the box has charging system for x batteries (feed the battery terminals into box), and a 240volt supply to connect to your ring main (feed your ring main into the box), And a feed for your external male socket. (outside your boat)

feeding the wires through the boat for the ring main is the hardest bit.

<hr width=100% size=1>/forums/images/icons/wink.gif <font color=blue> Regards Andy </font color=blue>
 
G

Guest

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Youmay not do job yersel ... but ..

it does not hurt to understand or have advise about what will be done or what is advised ....

I like to know waht I'm spending money for ....

I think your answer is out of line withe boating and forum spirit - whether correct or not.

IMHO

<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
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sailorman

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1x 2 gang consumer unit ( b+q "garage type" £30
weather proof socket + plug to connect to ship say around £ 30
as many socket outlets as u req + cable
say 4 hrs labour £ 100

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G

Guest

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Local DIY shop for Distribution box ( 29.99 ) with 2 slots for RCD / breakers.
2 Breakers 9.99 each ( 1 for sockets, other for later fitting of 240V lights)
ample length of good quality 3 core mains ring main cable. about tenners worth
2 surface mount switched sockets about 3 quid each..... couldn't see reason for waterproof inside cabin ... if its that wet - I abandon ship !
1 external mount caravan power socket with waether proof gasket about 6 quid
1 caravan power lead 25m with male / female plugs fitted. about 15 quid .....

Forgot to add it up ...... hang on ....

about 90 quid by the time I had a few cable ties and tags / screws etc.

I will change to RCD in the box later when I return as I think that would be better ..... but they are subject of course to the correct wiring of the marina power supply - which unfortunately has been known to be not so ......

Of course another 40 quid for the constant monitoring battery cahrger rounds the whole lot off ....


1 afternoons work and

<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
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TrueBlue

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Spotted vs. True

There is no connection between Spotted- and True-Blue...

I notice that one entry said "100m of 2.5mm cable". I hope he did not mean normal domestic flat Twin & Earth. Solid copper conductors should not ina a marine emvironment and are probably banned fo BSS purposes.

The reason is that boats and cars and planes vibrate and this will loosen connections and can cause cable to break in time, with a consequent risk of fire. Use flexible cable instead. Problem is that domestic 13 amp. sockets are not designed for flex:.....

Just thought I'd throw that one in..

Off Topic.

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tome

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Re: Youmay not do job yersel ... but ..

As others have mentioned, running cables is the most time consuming part. It's very important that these cables are properly supported with P clips or sadle clamps at regular intervals, and protected from abrasion where they run in exposed lockers etc.

The RCB is essential and should be fitted as close to the input socket as practical.

I would not use a caravan type socket as these are very poorly made and easy to break. You will probably have to drill quite a large hole in the cockpit to take this socket, and the proper US marine sockets are of much better construction (also much more expensive). They have a waterproof screw on cap for going to sea. Allow £80 for one of these with mating plug.

If in doubt, agree with the others that you should have it professionally fitted.

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G

Guest

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?? not always true ....

<<I would not use a caravan type socket as these are very poorly made and easy to break. You will probably have to drill quite a large hole in the cockpit to take this socket>>
Depends on where you buy and what you buy .... mine come from reputable dealers and are actually the same items as sold via marine outlets that I have seen........ + the hole to drill for the surface mount type as I have is only the size required for cable and grommet.

I most certainly would not even consider 80 smacks for a socket ..... sorry but thats my opinion.

It is agreed that solid copper wire twin and earth is not recc'd for marine environment .... but then again secured and not free to vibrate and damage itself .... it could last for years. I like braided cable ... stranded other description ... as its more amenable to the bends and turns required to get around lockers etc. Someone says that domestic sockets are not designed for this type of cable .... might be so - but never had trouble fitting them ....

Again we have a professional and DIY situation here ... as with most things boaty. For years and years things were done one way by many - then trends and advise changes .... so we get different advise .... the old boats are still around though - funny that ?

And before anyone accuses me of unsafe practice .... please this is IMHO and not what I tell others TO DO .....

As to RCB ..... if not fitted into the main cable - at least have the sense to have plug-in RCB's between your appliance and socket - BUT only temp while you sort out the proper RCB at / near input point to boat.

Excellent articles are in PBO etc. showing the varied marina and boat configurations that are found and why certain types should be avoided ..... I think biggest surprise for most is the grounded one - shows a shocking incident to nearby swimmers !!


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gps-navigator/
 
G

Guest

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If feeling a bit on the flush side .... you can have alook at Zig panels. Initially designed for Caravans but can be found modified .... they combine charger to switchable batterys, 240V distribution, multiple battery monitor, 12V distribution from 240V or battery supply. Even to external 12V input such as a power pack or additional battery ......

They can be found in panels that sit recessed or surface mount to suit your installation ..... but be warned they are not cheap.

One day I will cough up the ackers and have one for my boat having trusted all sorts of caravans and site stuff to 'em without trouble.And I mean in some pretty appaling conditions as well.


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gps-navigator/
 
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