Retro fitting Airconditioning

Flyfloat

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I am sure this has been done to death on these forums but I am struggling to find anything current.

Following storm Katie over the Easter weekend plus the relentless "encouragement" from Forumites to stop messing around in the UK and move to the med, I suspect this summer will be our last in Blighty. As such we need to think about retrofitting some air conditioning to the boat and I am seeking any advice?

She is an 11 yr old Fairline Phantom 50 already equipped with eberspacher heating and a 17.5kw generator, plus master switches for A/C on the control boards but nothing at the other end. Perhaps I would like to keep the eberspacher (for January weekends) as well as fitting A/C but this may be impractical/impossible and I realise that some A/C can heat too. SWMBO does not sleep well with noise and as such quiet running is an imperative when living aboard. I am interested in what is involved in the retro fit, the likely costs and which equipment comes recommended (both capacity and make).

The last question is where to get the modifications done. We have a trusted engineer here, however, if there are problems, he will not be there. Are Med engineers more likely to be aircon pro's?

All thoughts gratefully received.
 
In no particular order
1. I'd keep the Eber, I did and I use mine in the winters in SoF in preference to reverse cycle aircon. Also you can use the Eber when staying on the boat on the hard during winter maintenance; you can't do that with reverse cycle air con
2. generator sounds plenty big enough, no need to change that
3. I'd definitely get this done in the UK, using trades you know and can communicate effectively with
4. I had Cruisair (Dometic) gear installed by Seacraft Marine, and four years on I'm happy with both of those choices
5. if you want it quiet then you need to separate the chillers from the air handlers; others will be along soon to help with costs for that (my installation uses an effective but (relatively) noisy all-in-one unit

Where in the Med are you headed?
 
Good question. Somewhere within 45 min taxi from either Nice or Palma. I suspect this is a whole new thread though ��
Thanks for the advice

Well, for Nice that can put you anywhere between about Frejus and Ventimiglia, although the border crossing might very well be a pita now (haven't done it recently). Bear in mind that 45 mins in a cab in the SoF can cost €150. As a benchmark, Port Vauban in Antibes is about €60-70 in a cab; it's 9m and takes 20 mins. Anyway, as you say, for discussion elsewhere.
 
Ah the beauty of forums :)
My new to me Itama did not have A/C as it was used as a rich mans day boat by 1st owner .
Great for me a blank canvas like you
Theres A/C and a/c
I note wife and noise issue -me too -I was fed up with "selfie,s " too much racket .

Let me explain Cheapest and easy ist it install by a builder is self contained units ( no dought you have used Mr Google re "marine air con ")

These are real NOISY -fraid , no one with a factory spec sub 60-70 ftr will own up that -sorry folks .

Bigger boats go ------ IMHO ----
A better alternative -remember factory have not imposed you the selfie,s - is to have a remote "chiller " in the lazerete or under a aft cabin bunk and pumps x2 -one for the seawater ,one for cooling water in the engine room and go for silent -well almost air handlers under the bunks and sofa ,s in the cabins
Also Geny wise although not a prob for you -if you can run it off engine alternator -you can start it last 1/2 hour before arriving @ marina so all is nicely chilled down allready for grumpy kids and mum to hide inside cos outside is 30 + degrees during summer school hols even at 6 pm -remember kids and mum allready turning lobster red due to lack of reapplication after swimming all day at anchor
Here's a link
http://www.frigomar.com/catalogo-frigomar/FRIGOMAR_Air-Conditioning.pdf
From memory with this + 3 chillers €18'000 all in fitted SoF by an Italian guy recommended by Sunseeker .Fr
Who deals with all there A/C retro fits -like you Brits ariving with a UK spec boat .
 
Great advice. Quick question, does this install require holes in the hull or can it use something pre exisiting?
Both systems need seawater in and out
It's best to have a dedicated in + it's own strainer in the E room for the sea W pump .
Although I guess one could conect up to existing In like Geny -but really I think that's a bodge .
Exit from the "cooler /chiller " " usually above the water line -again Preffered option is well away cos it makes a trickle sound ( deliberate that's how you know the pump works ) .
Ours is at the stern .
So it's gonna be a lift out ,or with a bit of luck and organisation done before lift in or at Uk ?
 
A few quick comments, much agreeing with above:

1. Fit in UK. you'll easily beat €18k med price (and that is for a much smaller boat)
2. The ubiquitous Dometic gear (Marineair or Cruisair) makes sense: it isn't perfect but is widely understood and easily serviced, and generally reliable enough. Compressors are quite decent (Copeland, iirc) scroll compressors, which are quiet, and use 410A these days.
3. While scroll compressors are quiet, as said above if you want quiet operation fit a chiller (or 2 smaller chillers) in engine room then just air handlers in cabins. A so called "chilled water system", as distinct from "self contained" units that are, as said above, noisier. You'll then get just the noise of an a/c motor and fan in the cabin, which is quiet if you set the fan speed medium to low. The chiller noise and 2x pump noises are in engine room or deep in bilges somewhere, away from master cabin. This set up is slightly more complex to fit, but no big deal. you need a loop of chilled water installed under the cabin floor level, basically. Not difficult
4. Yes 17.5kva genset is fine
5. yes you need new seawater intake, so lift the boat. T-ing off another is usually a very bad idea. I disagree with Portofino's advice to put the discharged seawater above the waterline - top quality installations on smaller boats put it below the waterline, for quietness in evenings in the marina, for your neighbours as well as you. Quick installations done just for speed and maximum £££ margin for installer put it above the waterline because that's easy and saves £100 on bronze fittings. The idea you need to see or hear the discharge is flawed: the system will tell you via plenty of other symptoms if there is seawater blockage, and it's a rare event anyway. (You don't put your genset sea water discharge above the waterline for exactly the same reasons. Or maybe you do...) So you need two new underwater holes in the boat, basically, imho
6. Yes keep the eber
7. Capacity wise I think you want air handlers as follows: 12k btu/hour in the master cabin or 16 if you wish, 8 in each small cabin, 16 or 22 or 2 x 12 in saloon. Choose the whisper series. Then your chiller should be a say 4 ton/48k btu/hour or a 5 tonne if you want super performance. Probably low profile. I have 2 x 5 tonne chillers (2 x 60btu/hour) on a squadron 78 and find it is ok even in summer with just one running; I need only fire up the second chiller to cycle them or in intense august heat http://www.dometic.com/USA/MS-11346...oning/PG-11371-Chilled-Water-Air-Conditioning
8. I don't know the extra cost but it is nice to get a 3 phase motor on the chiller then drive it thru a variable Hz VFD. Dometic will do this in an off the shelf package. This is quieter, and avoids start up current spikes (not that your generator is underspecced, but you might find yourself with crummy 32A of shorepower and then it is good to avoid current spikes)
 
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A few quick comments, much agreeing with above:

1. Fit in UK. you'll easily beat €18k med price (and that is for a much smaller boat)
2. The ubiquitous Dometic gear (Marineair or Cruisair) makes sense: it isn't perfect but is widely understood and easily serviced, and generally reliable enough. Compressors are quite decent (Compton, iirc) scroll compressors, which are quiet, and use 410A these days.
3. While scroll compressors are quiet, as said above if you want quiet operation fit a chiller (or 2 smaller chillers) in engine room then just air handlers in cabins. A so called "chilled water system", as distinct from "self contained" units that are, as said above, noisier. You'll then get just the noise of an a/c motor and fan in the cabin, which is quiet if you set the fan speed medium to low. The chiller noise and 2x pump noises are in engine room or deep in bilges somewhere, away from master cabin. This set up is slightly more complex to fit, but no big deal. you need a loop of chilled water installed under the cabin floor level, basically. Not difficult
4. Yes 17.5kva genset is fine
5. yes you need new seawater intake, so lift the boat. T-ing off another is usually a very bad idea. I disagree with Portofino's advice to put the discharged seawater above the waterline - top quality installations on smaller boats put it below the waterline, for quietness in evenings in the marina, for your neighbours as well as you. Quick installations done just for speed and maximum £££ margin for installer put it above the waterline because that's easy and saves £100 on bronze fittings. The idea you need to see or hear the discharge is flawed: the system will tell you via plenty of other symptoms if there is seawater blockage, and it's a rare event anyway. (You don't put your genset sea water discharge above the waterline for exactly the same reasons. Or maybe you do...) So you need two new underwater holes in the boat, basically, imho
6. Yes keep the eber
7. Capacity wise I think you want air handlers as follows: 12k btu/hour in the master cabin or 16 if you wish, 8 in each small cabin, 16 or 22 or 2 x 12 in saloon. Choose the whisper series. Then your chiller should be a say 4 ton/48k btu/hour or a 5 tonne if you want super performance. Probably low profile. I have 2 x 5 tonne chillers (2 x 60btu/hour) on a squadron 78 and find it is ok even in summer with just one running; I need only fire up the second chiller to cycle them or in intense august heat http://www.dometic.com/USA/MS-11346...oning/PG-11371-Chilled-Water-Air-Conditioning
8. I don't know the extra cost but it is nice to get a 3 phase motor on the chiller then drive it thru a variable Hz VFD. Dometic will do this in an off the shelf package. This is quieter, and avoids start up current spikes (not that your generator is underspecced, but you might find yourself with crummy 32A of shorepower and then it is good to avoid current spikes)

1- I had quotes of €8K for Dometec selfie,s and €12 K for Domtec chiller s -
Just say a car or Hifi ,or lawn tractor -you pays your money and takes your chiose having had one first time you don,t given a chiose return necessarlily to first brand ,
Having had Dometec I found it niosey and was looking for ultra hush .
When the Frigomar Dc inverter chiller is on the only way you you can tell is to put your hand in the case and feel a gentle vibration .same for two pumps ( Calpeda ) -
2- scroll compressors - old hat -so yesterday :)
5- I like "tell tales " they do not have to be that niosey , just a few inches above W/L ---- just nice to see .
Personal pref .Less under water holes and when away .ie swimming , paddle boarding or returning from restaurant just nice to sight all is well .-Sure Geny overheat and engine overheat alarms will sound = shredded impeller .,and with this it will shut down , but as said just nice to pop head over bathing platform and see all is ok -others may disagree and want to stare at dials / screens ?
It's the factory fit stuff that cuts corners IMHO -cos punter can't not see and knows no better

7- Frigomar do a 5 T unit
8- N/A as it's a Dc motor v low start up surge = works on any shorepower will not cut out @ visiting marinas -your new neighbours might with Domtetc stuff -read link JFM .
My inclination would be for local fit not Uk then disappear 1000 miles away .

BTW the noise you are asking to keep down with selfie,s it not just the humb of the scroll compressors it more like the resonating of cooling pipe s and the pan they sit in - and one more thing Dometec stuff is fitted in a drain pan ,that produces a horrible brown sticky liquid that drains into the bilge area , and every now and agian they need to defrost esp in high humidity -just when you want then on !
Nowt wrong with Fords / vauxhalls cheap as chips -but given a chiose ? :)
 
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1- I had quotes of €8K for Dometec selfie,s and €12 K for Domtec chiller s -
Just say a car or Hifi ,or lawn tractor -you pays your money and takes your chiose having had one first time you don,t given a chiose return necessarlily to first brand ,
Having had Dometec I found it niosey and was looking for ultra hush .
When the Frigomar Dc inverter chiller is on the only way you you can tell is to put your hand in the case and feel a gentle vibration .same for two pumps ( Calpeda ) -
2- scroll compressors - old hat -so yesterday :)
5- I like "tell tales " they do not have to be that niosey , just a few inches above W/L ---- just nice to see .
Personal pref .Less under water holes and when away .ie swimming , paddle boarding or returning from restaurant just nice to sight all is well .-Sure Geny overheat and engine overheat alarms will sound = shredded impeller .,and with this it will shut down , but as said just nice to pop head over bathing platform and see all is ok -others may disagree and want to stare at dials / screens ?
It's the factory fit stuff that cuts corners IMHO -cos punter can't not see and knows no better

7- Frigomar do a 5 T unit
8- N/A as it's a Dc motor v low start up surge = works on any shorepower will not cut out @ visiting marinas -your new neighbours might with Domtetc stuff -read link JFM .
My inclination would be for local fit not Uk then disappear 1000 miles away .

BTW the noise you are asking to keep down with selfie,s it not just the humb of the scroll compressors it more like the resonating of cooling pipe s and the pan they sit in - and one more thing Dometec stuff is fitted in a drain pan ,that produces a horrible brown sticky liquid that drains into the bilge area , and every now and agian they need to defrost esp in high humidity -just when you want then on !
Nowt wrong with Fords / vauxhalls cheap as chips -but given a chiose ? :)
Well its important to separate out the true benefits of the frigomar system from the marketing BS, and also to correct the descriptions on how they work.

First, you said of scroll compressors "old hat -so yesterday". Do you want to tell us what compressors Frigomar use in their chillers including the one on your boat? I'll save you the trouble: they're scroll compressors. AFAIK they buy in Copeland scroll compressors - Copeland is the leader, an Emerson company, same as used in Dometic gear

Difference is that the Frigomar scroll compressors are Copeland's variable speed unit. The normal ones as in standard Dometic gear are also variable with a VFD drive and triphase motors, but only from around 40-60Hz due to lack of oil pump output if you go lower - the Copeland unit that frigomar use has improved oil pump that allows lower speed and therefore a much bigger range of speed control. So this and this alone is the main advantage of Frigomar - the fact you can buy a 4tonne chiller and run it at say 1 tonne all day long. If you want to.

Now is that worth £6 grand or whatever? Yes if you have a very small genset/small boat and need to be a bit scroogy in allocating your electricity, when you want to run the toaster and kettle too, but for OP with mammoth 17.5kva genset it is highly questionable whether the price premium is worth it. Bear in mid the compressor is the same one in each case, except the Frigomar one has the variable speed function with special oil pump.

I know you go on about your supposedly superior "DC motor", but I'll bet yours is an AC compressor motor, single phase. You supply it with 24v DC but the built in inverter nailed to the side of the AC motor makes AC at variable HZ to control the motor speed. Very good engineering, but exactly the same principle as you get on Dometic and as is installed in my boat for example, except the Dometics including mine can be bought in 3 phase which is obviously better and quieter than single phase.

A possible advantage of Frigomar is you can with ease run off the engine alternators, without running genset at all. Assuming you have 100amps @24v spare from alternators (that would be a lot, but is conceivable; you wouldn't have that on your Itama) that would run say 25000 btu/hour of airco (ballpark) which is a contribution but far from full airco on a phantom 50. So I'm not sure this is great for o/p but worth thinking about a bit. Of course if you have 100amps at 24v spare, you can just buy a 2.5kva inverter and get 230v power the same way, and run a small chiller if you want. I wouldn't bother.

The start up current point is hyped by Frigomar; it's a non issue with VFD driven AC compressors where the Hz ramp up is very gentle and there is no spike at all.

So main benefit of Frigomar is you can run them at 1/4 or 1/2 etc output continuously, and that is nice (nicer than stop start, even with 40-60H speed variability). It might make for gentler noise when full load running isn't needed, and will save you some shorepower consumption, and IF you happen to have a small genset it is nice in allowing you also to run a kettle or whatever without tripping the 230v

Also Frigomar nicely go to trouble of putting the compressor in soundshield box - for plenty of installations that must help on noise - the smaller the boat the more so. But when you said you went from Dometic selfies to Frigomar ultrahush, that is a comparison between selfies and remote chillers, not a comparison between dometic and Frigomar. All selfies are noisier. A chilled water system, whether Frigomar or Dometic, will eliminate the selfie noise, and I remind you again that both Dometic and Frigomar are buying their compressors and motors from the same Emerson catalogue - there is no difference there.

Finally: brown sticky liquid - I've no idea what you're on about. Maybe you need to service your boat or your coffee machine or something.

Overall I'm not saying one system is better than another - they each have their mixed pros and cons. I'm just trying to write those pros/cons down, without any marketing hype, so O/P can see whether the price premium makes sense
 
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Gosh, good to know that nothing in boating is ever simple. The debate about where to have it fitted is still a wrangle. Logic says get it fitted here when they lift her in the autumn ready for the toad trip. Engineers are well known and trusted and it is easy to have the above or below the waterline type conversations. However it then doesn't get tested or shaken down until boat is 1000 miles away and a French/Spanish man is sucking his teeth and tutting about how he wouldn't have done it like that. That last bit makes me wonder if accountability means it should get done on arrival?
 
I know you go on about your supposedly superior "DC motor", but I'll bet yours is an AC compressor motor, single phase. You supply it with 24v DC but the built in inverter nailed to the side of the AC motor makes AC at variable HZ to control the motor speed. Very good engineering, but exactly the same principle as you get on Dometic and as is installed in my boat for example, except the Dometics including mine can be bought in 3 phase which is obviously better and quieter than single phase

Overall I'm not saying one system is better than another - they each have their mixed pros and cons. I'm just trying to write those pros/cons down, without any marketing hype, so O/P can see whether the price premium makes sense[/QUOTE]
JFM Above ----

It appers to be a Dc brushless motor - which is the fundamental Difference ----- and v quiet
It's a good job I,am not taking you up on that "bet" Page 3 below
http://www.frigomar.com/catalogo-frigomar/FRIGOMAR_Air-Conditioning.pdf

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor
 
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It appers to be a Dc brushless motor - which is the fundamental Difference ----- and v quiet
http://www.frigomar.com/catalogo-frigomar/FRIGOMAR_Air-Conditioning.pdf
It's hard to get stuff through when you don't understand engineering but persist. The so called brushless DC motor is not the fundamental difference. It's an ac motor (which is a good thing) driven by a clever inverter that varies the Hz of its AC output and I'd expect does that very nicely by generating 3 sinusoidal wave forms. Actually all brushless so called DC motors are AC- they just generate the AC internally. It is impossible to make a brushless motor without alternating the current direction. This motor in the copeland unit just advances the AC game by using a variable frequency AC inverter to create the AC and so control the motor speed. But even that isn't the fundamental difference as I have it on my boat and it's in all bigger dometic etc compressors.

The clever lubrication of the scroll compressor ( not old hat) is the real fundamental difference because this is what allows the very wide speed range of the scroll - something like x7 slow to fast. It's very clever stuff indeed, though these days it's all straight out of the copeland catalogue and is excellent machinery; frigomar didn't invent anything- they just put it in nice boxes.

Ok the numpties brochure you linked to goes on about DC. You input DC to the inverter, just as with any inverter, including my 3phase VFD inverters that use a DC input that they create themselves internally by rectifying the boat's 230v AC single phase. but the motor has to be AC. And then the marketing bods wrote about all that DC brushless stuff, instead of the clever scroll compressor which I guess didn't make for such slick marketing BS-as proven by you who calls this very clever device at the core of your frigomar system's USP "old hat, last year".
 
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Gosh, good to know that nothing in boating is ever simple. The debate about where to have it fitted is still a wrangle. Logic says get it fitted here when they lift her in the autumn ready for the toad trip. Engineers are well known and trusted and it is easy to have the above or below the waterline type conversations. However it then doesn't get tested or shaken down until boat is 1000 miles away and a French/Spanish man is sucking his teeth and tutting about how he wouldn't have done it like that. That last bit makes me wonder if accountability means it should get done on arrival?
I would say get it fitted here in uk and don't even think about getting it done from 1000 miles away. I've always done this. The installation is pretty straightforward as to layout and the wiring is plug and play, plus fairline have already done the supply end of the 230v AC, so you should not get the teeth sucking scenario you describe.

As regards above/below waterline I would not listen to your installer's advice. I'd tell him what you want done. He might be ok at installing air con and might even have some "minimise seacocks" prejudices, but he might not get the noise point. Folks who know what they're doing discharge under the waterline, exactly as you would with a genset's water, and this is x2 important for you if your wife likes silence to go to sleep
 
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It's hard to get stuff through when you don't understand engineering but persist. The so called brushless DC motor is not the fundamental difference. It's an ac motor (which is a good thing) driven by a clever inverter that varies the Hz of its AC output and I'd expect does that very nicely by generating 3 sinusoidal wave forms. Actually all brushless so called DC motors are AC- they just generate the AC internally. It is impossible to make a brushless motor without alternating the current direction. This motor in the copeland unit just advances the AC game by using a variable frequency AC inverter to create the AC and so control the motor speed. But even that isn't the fundamental difference as I have it on my boat and it's in all bigger dometic etc compressors.

The clever lubrication of the scroll compressor ( not old hat) is the real fundamental difference because this is what allows the very wide speed range of the scroll - something like x7 slow to fast. It's very clever stuff indeed, though these days it's all straight out of the copeland catalogue and is excellent machinery; frigomar didn't invent anything- they just put it in nice boxes.

Ok the numpties brochure you linked to goes on about DC. You input DC to the inverter, just as with any inverter, including my 3phase VFD inverters that use a DC input that they create themselves internally by rectifying the boat's 230v AC single phase. but the motor has to be AC. And then the marketing bods wrote about all that DC brushless stuff, instead of the clever scroll compressor which I guess didn't make for such slick marketing BS-as proven by you who calls this very clever device at the core of your frigomar system's USP "old hat, last year".

The" USP old hat yesterday " was aimed at plain noisy A/C motor stuff apologies for not making that clear
This likley to to be fitted in a small sub 60-70 ftr -an easy trap for the OP to fall into
I was pointing out a v quiet alternative the Frigomar stuff you optionally can go for the Dc brushless stuff DLBC

This is far quieter than conventional A/C motor powered alone be it on a selfie or chiller .

In fact the chiller is so quiet it can go under a bunk and the person sleeping does not know its on.

That's the point -with a blank canvas not restrained by costs repect of bottom line at the factory fit -the OP can choise .
I have not critiqued your 3 phase stuff,* sure it's good.,but will it fit in a 50 ftr? Or is it appropriate ? Wieght /size wise ?
I realise Frigomar did not "invent " any thing ( never said /implied ) and have just changed /adapted some off the shelf tech .
Like the Wikipedia link suggest re HVAC
Of couses there is a spin off -less power -thought with a 17-5 Kv Geny not really applicable in theory **
Does not need air cooling the Motor so,s whole lot inc compressor can be put in a sound box-agian a nod to silence.
And -as mentioned maybe at a v busy visiting berth in the middle August the current draw being lower than an "old hat yesterday " AC only motor = less chance of tripping shorepower while ,cooking , toasting , kettle + hair drying etc

* 3phase how are these cooled ? Are they in a box ? How much power do they use ?
frigomar do a 62 000 Btu or 5.2 T BLBC brushless chiller (mines smaller 18- 42'000 btu 3.5T unit )


* *17.5 Kv is lot bigger than comparable 50 ftrs Sun Priny standard 7.5 or 9.5 with option upgrade to 11.5 Kv ?
Why so big ? How much headroom is there availiable ?

So it's either follow the herd with AC niosey compressors like small Dometec stuff
Go 3 phase
Or Frigomar

Btw you can not hear the water out above the W/L at the stern in the aft cabin -Windows's are closed
In fact can,t hear any thing -that's the whole point it's :cool:
 
I'd second the advice from a few above to get it fitted here. The advantages of easy communication and more reliable contractors far outweighs the risk of teeth sucking you describe.

I also agree with the advice to have the raw water outlet underwater. In the hottest months, even at anchor, you'll probably want to cool the cabins before going to bed, and whilst this is happening you'll most likely be sipping wine on the aft deck. The sound of running water is more intrusive than the rumble of the genny, so best to avoid it if you can
 
Btw you can not hear the water out above the W/L at the stern in the aft cabin -Windows's are closed
In fact can,t hear any thing -that's the whole point it's :cool:

I'm always conscious of the poor next door neighbour without A/C and with his windows wide open. I've got a 37 footer so this is often the case with similar yachts and boats next door.
I DIY installed mine and just followed instructions not knowing you could outlet under the waterline.
 
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Ref your first sentence, no need to apologise for lack of clarity. What you wrote was perfectly clear.

Technical stuff now done to death imho

17.5 kva genset is oversized for a non airco boat. There will be lots of headroom. Whoever specced it perhaps intended fitting airco later- iirc a number of 50-58 foot fairlines were built over the years with the big genset in anticipation of future airco installation. Seems a good idea.

Ref your last point, ok *you* can't hear the transom water trickle when you're further foward. What about the folks in an aft cockpit boat next to you in the marina? Anyway I think we can call this an each to their own thing
 
Having had both the self contained and chilled water/separate air handler aircon systems on previous boats and if your SWMBO is sensitive to noise and vibration, I would definitely not go for self contained units even if they cost significantly less. In the Med you are likely to be running your aircon 24/7 (controlled by thermostat) when in a marina between June and Sept and a lot of the time when you are out of the marina at anchor so it needs to be reliable, efficient and above all, quiet. It would be worth checking what unit was offered by Fairline when the boat was new as there might be a convenient space for it in your engine bay. Marineair and Cruisair are good brands. You might want to look at Condaria as well which is fitted to many Italian boats and for which there's plenty of service in the Med. I've had Condaria on my last 3 boats and only experienced one issue

Agree 100% with the others. Far better to have all the work done in the UK where you can supervise and control it

Don't forget that you'll also need a pasarelle and bimini for the Med, if you haven't already got them
 
I suspect the boat was originally built with the med in mind. As such we have the big genny, passarelle and Bimini but no AC just the Eber (which gets well used). Sounds like a uk engineer will get the job. Now if I can send swmbo to sleep on all your boats and check out the aircon noise that would be great ��
 
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