Retractable bowsprit

[Tofinou]

I'm considering the purchase of a 'Tosher 20' which is rigged as a gaff cutter.

As the forestay attaches to the stemhead and not to the outboard end of the bowsprit, I would like to be able to retract or lift the bowsprit in some way(trice up?) in order to save on berthing costs.

Is this a realistic proposal especially as i will normally be sailing single handed

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[Mirelle]

There are several points, here.

Firstly, the reason why there are many gaff cutters and few gaff sloops is connected with the need to run a forestay from the stemhead, rather than the bowsprit end. Carrying away the bowsprit is not sucha rare accident - if the mast depends on a stay from the end of the bowsprit you will lose the mast as well, which is to be avoided. So, stay from stemhead carries staysail and jib sets from bowsprit...

Next, those Thames barges which have bowsprits have them hinged to steeve up in port so as to save space, and some yachts copy this idea.

Working gaff cutters on the other hand have always had retractable bowsprits, which run through a gammon iron at the stemhead and are held against the foreside of the bitts by a woden fid. There is a roller on top of the bowsprit with an axle passing through the bitts to keep it under control. However you need to be sure that you have enough clear foredeck to run the bowsprit all the way in, and you will probably be unable to open the forehatch with the bowsprit run in (we cannot, for example).

Our boat is 37ft LOA with 14ft of retractable bowsprit; I sail her singlehanded and can handle the bowsprit by myself, so I think the answer to your question, vis a vis a 20 footer, is "yes", but check on how much you will save vis a vis the cost and weight of the modifications, as many marinas have minimum charge.

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[snowleopard]

as mirelle has said it is common, especially in working boats, to run in the bowsprit. some boats could even run them partly in and set a smaller jib but that's a bit OTT.

think carefully about how you hold the inner end when extended. better to us a piece of wood which will break if you hit something where a big steel pin would carry away the bitts and half the foredeck!

if you slide the bowsprit out through a gammon iron, make sure it is tight when fully extended to avoid chafe. a serving of old cord around the gammon would do the job.

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[Plum]

Hello. Is that a Martin Heard built Tosher by any chance? If so, there is an owners association called Gaffers and Luggers Association. I modified my 16' bowsprit last year so that it steeves up. I found this was a better system for me and works well when singe handing. If you have the jib on a furler, then running the bowsprit in will mean that the jib unfurls in the process if you fail to fasten the furling line to the bowsprit or drop the sail first.. With the steeved up bowsprit, providing the furling line goes through a turning block at the bowsprit pivot, the sail stays furled. Good luck with the Tosher!

Colin

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[Porthandbuoy]

I like your comment regarding using something "breakable" at the inboard end of the bowsprit. Just how to design some sort of fittings strong enough to cope with normal use yet weak enough to fail under excessive compression might prove difficult. I'm fitting a bowsprit, offset to port, on Mariposa (a 2.5T Hiyard) and if I secure it as you suggest a collision would send the heel straight through the cabin front! Perhaps a shock absorber might do the trick and bring Mariposa to a gentle stop before the bowsprit end pierces someone else's pride and joy.

<hr width=100% size=1>"Mariposa"
This time next year; maybe.

 

[Mirelle]

Mytica was (indeed, is, but no longer owned by me) very similar indeed to a 2 1/2 ton Hillyard and sported a six foot bowsprit. One one occasion, during a particluarly blustery night on the moorings, she managed to poke it through the porthole of the neighbouring Cheoy Lee - the bowsprit broke as did the porthole glass but the fid securing the stump was horribly intact!

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