Restoring old wood?

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Nicholas123

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My cabin has a dark wood possibly died that is pretty grotty....The previous owner used it as a drinking smoking den to get away from the wife & it also has mouldy looking patches.I tried giving it a wipe over with white spirit but the result was'nt particularly impressive.Any other suggestions?
I would like when it is cleaned up just to give it a spray over with Johnsons furniture polish or something like that.
 
Nicholas123 said:
My cabin has a dark wood possibly died that is pretty grotty....The previous owner used it as a drinking smoking den to get away from the wife & it also has mouldy looking patches.I tried giving it a wipe over with white spirit but the result was'nt particularly impressive.Any other suggestions?
I would like when it is cleaned up just to give it a spray over with Johnsons furniture polish or something like that.
Click to expand...
Clean it with Stardrops solution, then use Topps stain and polish
Stu
 
If the varnish under the muck is sound then a suitable solvent should work.
I use a bit of acetone on a rag, working in small areas and turning the rag frequently.
I would advise against Johnsons or any other spray polish... it contains silicon which will really spoil you day if you ever try to refinish the wood.
Try a little varnish thinned with linseed oil and turps applied with a rag.
Dispose of the rags carefully as they can spontaniously combust.
 
If it has mouldy patches, the chances are water has got in. You might be able to clean the muck off the surface - you don't necessarily need something as harsh as acetone, try with spray on kitchen cleaners or impregnated wipes first. However, if it is varnished or lacquered you may find the surface has degraded anyway, so a strip and refinish is on the cards.
 
may not be much help but thought id add this , have used nivea ladys face cream on oak ,blend it in over a period of a couple of weeks bit by bit and the oak shines like gold ,lovely:)
 
I have similar problems with the interior woodwork. The solution I have found (after some experimentation) is:

  1. Strip ALL the existing varnish off - sand and scrape seems to be the simplest way. But be careful if there is a thin veneer surface.
  2. Wash with concentrated oxalic acid solution and leave for 24 hours
  3. Rinse THOROUGHLY with fresh water
  4. Re-finish to taste
This slightly lightens the wood, but gets rid of pretty much all the black marks except where there is mechanical damage to the wood as well.
 
AntarcticPilot said:
I have similar problems with the interior woodwork. The solution I have found (after some experimentation) is:

  1. Strip ALL the existing varnish off - sand and scrape seems to be the simplest way. But be careful if there is a thin veneer surface.
  2. Wash with concentrated oxalic acid solution and leave for 24 hours
  3. Rinse THOROUGHLY with fresh water
  4. Re-finish to taste
This slightly lightens the wood, but gets rid of pretty much all the black marks except where there is mechanical damage to the wood as well.
Click to expand...

In a similar vein I have used bleach instead of oxalic acid and then rinsed with 50:50 vinegar and water. It is very effective at getting rid of the black marks in the wood.

Yoda
 
Good stuff to be getting on with,just a few general remarks......there is no varnish or surface treatments that I can detect & I hope the mouldy looking patches are not as a result of water ingress.I suspect (& hope) that they are just in general unventilated areas where the boat has'nt been well ventilated in the past,you know the sort of areas where the air is stagnant?.....first means of attack because it is cheap & I already have some....the super dupa kitchen cleaner :)

Thanks for all your replies.
 
Nicholas123 said:
Good stuff to be getting on with,just a few general remarks......there is no varnish or surface treatments that I can detect & I hope the mouldy looking patches are not as a result of water ingress.I suspect (& hope) that they are just in general unventilated areas where the boat has'nt been well ventilated in the past,you know the sort of areas where the air is stagnant?.....first means of attack because it is cheap & I already have some....the super dupa kitchen cleaner :)

Thanks for all your replies.
Click to expand...

I am quite certain there WILL be a surface teratment; perhaps oil or wax.
 
AntarcticPilot said:
I am quite certain there WILL be a surface teratment; perhaps oil or wax.
Click to expand...

The only surface treatment I could find Antarctic' is a thick layer of nicotine which the kitchen cleaner from the 99p store did a pretty good job of removing.What it did'nt remove from among the grain I managed to remove with a wire brush.
There is certainly no varnish or anything like that (thankfully) though I agree with you there probably was something there in the first place.
While the surface was wet it really was the most wonderful colour rosewood so I shall try to bring that out with some sort of wax or polish.Probably spray on stuff from the same source as the kitchen cleaner :)
 
AntarcticPilot said:
I have similar problems with the interior woodwork. The solution I have found (after some experimentation) is:

  1. Strip ALL the existing varnish off - sand and scrape seems to be the simplest way. But be careful if there is a thin veneer surface.
  2. Wash with concentrated oxalic acid solution and leave for 24 hours
  3. Rinse THOROUGHLY with fresh water
  4. Re-finish to taste
This slightly lightens the wood, but gets rid of pretty much all the black marks except where there is mechanical damage to the wood as well.
Click to expand...

My solution is as above except between step 2 & 3

Neutralise Oxalic acid and wood acids with Sugar Soap (Alkaline.) You get a nice satisfying 'fizz' as you apply :) and it is a bit soapy, so it get's out an astonishing amount of dirt and helps remove black mould and also cancels out the slight lightening of the wood caused by the Oxalic. Then rinse copiously to remove dirt and product before it dries back into the wood. At this point you can scrutinise your sanding efforts and remove missed bits from the softened wood.

Looks a horrible mess before you rinse but I find it works.

Then, once dry, a final sand with fine sandpaper before your chosen finish.

Also, be careful that the Oxalic does not bleach your paintwork and keeping it dampish keeps it active
 
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