MapisM
Well-Known Member
I'm considering a GRP boat whose main deck is fully covered with teak.
And that wasn't even an option, just standard construction of the yard. Therefore, I'm told that the fiberglass underneath was moulded flat, without any antiskid surface.
Now, even if the original teak was very nicely done, it's now worn out in the most exposed areas, and I am thinking to remove it and not replace it at all.
I mean, neither real teak nor its synthetic imitation, and also not cork (which maybe would be my preference, if I really should stick something above the GRP).
Nothing, just leave it bare plastic.
But of course, it's irrealistic to expect that it will be sufficient to remove the existing glued teak planks, for two reasons:
Firstly, the nasty sika stuff originally used to glue the teak will surely be hard to remove, and it's safe to bet that the grp surface will be somewhat damaged in the process.
Secondly, as I said the deck was moulded without the typical diamond antiskid surface, in all the areas (walkarounds and bow) that were meant to be covered with teak.
So, some sort of antiskid treatment will be necessary anyhow.
And the type of finishing that popped to my mind is the one often found in long range/expedition boats, like in the Nordie example below.
Actually, I know nothing about the material used, and the procedure required to attach the grey antiskid stuff to the fiberglass (I mean, grey in this example, but I've seen also white and beige).
I would think it's not something done during the moulding process, unless you folks know better.
And if it's a post-processing, hopefully it could be applied also on a boat already built, without needing any particular treatment difficult to arrange on a finished boat?
The only thing I'm sure of is that this kind of treatment is extremely strong and durable, doesn't get hot under the sun, and even if nowhere near as nice as teak, still gives a reasonably good feeling when walking on it barefoot, and it's much less slippery when wet. All of which makes it more than good enough for me!
Any suggestion on if, how, and with which sort of material/procedure such job can be done is most welcome - manyTAI!
And that wasn't even an option, just standard construction of the yard. Therefore, I'm told that the fiberglass underneath was moulded flat, without any antiskid surface.
Now, even if the original teak was very nicely done, it's now worn out in the most exposed areas, and I am thinking to remove it and not replace it at all.
I mean, neither real teak nor its synthetic imitation, and also not cork (which maybe would be my preference, if I really should stick something above the GRP).
Nothing, just leave it bare plastic.
But of course, it's irrealistic to expect that it will be sufficient to remove the existing glued teak planks, for two reasons:
Firstly, the nasty sika stuff originally used to glue the teak will surely be hard to remove, and it's safe to bet that the grp surface will be somewhat damaged in the process.
Secondly, as I said the deck was moulded without the typical diamond antiskid surface, in all the areas (walkarounds and bow) that were meant to be covered with teak.
So, some sort of antiskid treatment will be necessary anyhow.
And the type of finishing that popped to my mind is the one often found in long range/expedition boats, like in the Nordie example below.
Actually, I know nothing about the material used, and the procedure required to attach the grey antiskid stuff to the fiberglass (I mean, grey in this example, but I've seen also white and beige).
I would think it's not something done during the moulding process, unless you folks know better.
And if it's a post-processing, hopefully it could be applied also on a boat already built, without needing any particular treatment difficult to arrange on a finished boat?
The only thing I'm sure of is that this kind of treatment is extremely strong and durable, doesn't get hot under the sun, and even if nowhere near as nice as teak, still gives a reasonably good feeling when walking on it barefoot, and it's much less slippery when wet. All of which makes it more than good enough for me!
Any suggestion on if, how, and with which sort of material/procedure such job can be done is most welcome - manyTAI!
