Replacing steaming light in situ

[Aeolus]

My steaming light (a very old aqua signal type 40) is increasingly unreliable due to corrosion and weak springs in the contacts and I'm thinking of replacing it with a sealed unit such as the Osculati Sphera II LED light. One of the likely problems is that the wiring is rather old and I expect to find that the ends, half way up the mast, are (a) fairly corroded and (b) have very little slack.

Is there anything I could use to treat the ends of the current wiring to remove at least some of the corrosion products. I know that the 'correct' solution would be to replace the wiring but I'm hoping to avoid that at least until next time I take the mast down (hopefully not for a few years yet).

 

[Boathook]

Whilst you are halfway up the mast replacing the light it work take much more work to replace the wire. The new lamp and wire can be connected together before hand and pulled through, etc.

 

[slipknot]

Did this a couple of seasons ago and fitted the light you propose and I’m very pleased with it. I too set out to replace the cable. What I didn’t know was there is an ‘s bend’ inside the mast about a metre above deck level. Not knowing that, I couldn’t pull the replacement cable through and couldn’t work out why. Once I knew, it was easy peasy. Good luck with your project

 

[zoidberg]

I have a similar task and similar problems, so I'm v. interested in tinned cabling of smaller diameter than the current corroded domestic 3-core legacy stuff....

 

[pagoda]

I have a similar task and similar problems, so I'm v. interested in tinned cabling of smaller diameter than the current corroded domestic 3-core legacy stuff....

If you are replacing traditional bulbs with LED lamps, you can easily get away with lighter gauge tinned cable, which will cost appreciably less!
They don't need the multiple amps of traditional bulbs.

 

[zoidberg]

Yes, well spotted, 'Pagoda'. That's a new AAA combi-steaming/deck light, with new Boatlamps multi-LEDS. I'm a convert to See and Be Seen, see.....

I'll get on to Boatlamps and 12VoltPlanet about 'go-faster' light cabling.....

Any good ideas on how to clamp and support the weight without stressing the cable-joins?

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Replace the cable while you are at it. You are talking mA for these lights so a much smaller tinned cable. Makes sense.

 

[Red Panda]

I replaced my steaming light last year, while the mast was down. Foolishly I didn't replace the domestic 3-core wire to the lamp, and now wish I had.
There's no obvious way, with the new LED lamp as shown in Pagoda's post, to clamp the wire (whereas the old lamp I replaced had a cable clamp). I made a rather tight rubber gasket from old inner tube, placed over the cable as it exits the mast, and a cable tie to help take the strain.
I've got to go up the mast shortly, and I'll be checking to see how well it's held.

 

[cliveshelton]

Replace the cable while you are at it. You are talking mA for these lights so a much smaller tinned cable. Makes sense.

+1. I wish I had. I’m nervous now that the old stuff will fail soon needing another mast down escapade (I don’t climb masts).

 

[Boathook]

Yes, well spotted, 'Pagoda'. That's a new AAA combi-steaming/deck light, with new Boatlamps multi-LEDS. I'm a convert to See and Be Seen, see.....

I'll get on to Boatlamps and 12VoltPlanet about 'go-faster' light cabling.....

Any good ideas on how to clamp and support the weight without stressing the cable-joins?

I soldered my wires with each with shrinkwrap (the glue type) and then another shrinkwrap over the whole lot. The joint is in the mast but the tinned 3 core cable wasn't heavy so I don't anticipate any problems. Only did it this winter so I can't comment on how long it actually lasts but I have had heavier wires hanging on a soldered joint.

 

[zoidberg]

I soldered my wires with each with shrinkwrap (the glue type) and then another shrinkwrap over the whole lot.

Thanks, Boathook. That's what I'll do....

 

[vyv_cox]

I replaced my old light with one similar to the one shown in post #4 with the mast up. I found it quite difficult to get the unit flush with the mast due to the wiring connections at the back. Also, the tabs are quite stiff and reluctant to bend around the curve of the mast. Going to lighter cable would partially overcome the first problem and I suspect that multiple wraps of light line would have helped with the second.

 

[BabaYaga]

My steaming light (a very old aqua signal type 40) is increasingly unreliable due to corrosion and weak springs in the contacts and I'm thinking of replacing it with a sealed unit such as the Osculati Sphera II LED light. One of the likely problems is that the wiring is rather old and I expect to find that the ends, half way up the mast, are (a) fairly corroded and (b) have very little slack.

Is there anything I could use to treat the ends of the current wiring to remove at least some of the corrosion products. I know that the 'correct' solution would be to replace the wiring but I'm hoping to avoid that at least until next time I take the mast down (hopefully not for a few years yet).

Don't know how the Osculati attaches to the mast, but when I retired my old Aqua Signal 40 I chose this as a replacement:
https://glamox.com/gmo-recreational...igation-lights-aqua-signal-2/items/3605001000
There is an adapter plate that can be bolted to the back of the light, which makes it possible to reuse the existing AS bracket on the mast face. I imagine that would reduce some hassle if doing this with the mast standing.

 

[Topcat47]

I replaced my old steaming/deck flood with a LED replacement two years ago. The cable running up the mast was some 11 years old. I removed about 4" from the top and an inch or so from the bottom of the cable are reconnected. Shrink wrapping the exposed ends And the three core cable sheath seems to have extended the useable life of the old (untied) cable I used in the original re-wiring exercise.