Replacing Raw water pump bearings

[Saltram31]

I'm servicing my raw water pump and one of the bearings is running a bit rough. They are standard SKF 6001 bearings, which are £36.00 from marine suppliers and £2.60 from the likes of RS. Anyway to remove these without specialist tools and causing scoring to the shaft?
TIA

 

[Boatface]

This is how I did it
Mend your own engine sea water pump - Practical Boat Owner

 

[Plum]

I'm servicing my raw water pump and one of the bearings is running a bit rough. They are standard SKF 6001 bearings, which are £36.00 from marine suppliers and £2.60 from the likes of RS. Anyway to remove these without specialist tools and causing scoring to the shaft?
TIA

I assume you are going to replace the lip seals too while you have it apart. If so, and you are going to buy from a non-marine supplier, make sure the garter springs are stainless steel. The bearings should be pressed off and on from the end of the shaft opposite to the seals so there is no risk if the shaft gets scored. My bearings needed my heavy duty bench vice to move them. Also, my bearings were not located by a shoulder on the shaft so you have to be very careful you press the bearings onto the shaft to the same position along the shaft: this is particularly critical if your shaft engages into a drive slot inside the engine, less critical if you pump is driven by an external V-belt.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Saltram31]

Thanks Boatface

This is how I did it
Mend your own engine sea water pump - Practical Boat Owner

Thanks for the link.Very helpful article article,Boatface. Thanks

 

[Saltram31]

I assume you are going to replace the lip seals too while you have it apart. If so, and you are going to buy from a non-marine supplier, make sure the garter springs are stainless steel. The bearings should be pressed off and on from the end of the shaft opposite to the seals so there is no risk if the shaft gets scored. My bearings needed my heavy duty bench vice to move them. Also, my bearings were not located by a shoulder on the shaft so you have to be very careful you press the bearings onto the shaft to the same position along the shaft: this is particularly critical if your shaft engages into a drive slot inside the engine, less critical if you pump is driven by an external V-belt.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

I'm replacing the seals and getting from a marine supplier as they are the only parts which are not extreme in price. When I removed the seals, the garter springs were facing the motor side of the shaft and on the diagram I have,they are facing towards each other which I assume is the correct orientation.
I'll use my gauge to get the same position for the bearings. Thanks Plum.

 

[Plum]

I'm replacing the seals and getting from a marine supplier as they are the only parts which are not extreme in price. When I removed the seals, the garter springs were facing the motor side of the shaft and on the diagram I have,they are facing towards each other which I assume is the correct orientation.
I'll use my gauge to get the same position for the bearings. Thanks Plum.

The seals should be back to back with a space or spacer, and sometimes an O-ring too, between them. The lip/garter spring faces the liquid they are sealing. One seals the raw water stopping it escaping from the impeller cavity, the other seals the oil that lubricates the bearings. Make sure the bearings you buy are the open type without any form of seal or shield built in.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk