Replacing my Bilge Keels....

rodd234

New Member
Joined
7 Jun 2007
Messages
11
Visit site
Hi everyone ,
My Bilge keels fitted to my halcyon 23 yacht are now getting to the end of their working life !! ( Getting a bit thin )
I know that next year I will need to replace them..
Has anyone any Idea of someone that can fabricate them ?? etc ........
Any Ideas ..
Thanks ..
 
Hi everyone ,
My Bilge keels fitted to my halcyon 23 yacht are now getting to the end of their working life !! ( Getting a bit thin )
I know that next year I will need to replace them..
Has anyone any Idea of someone that can fabricate them ?? etc ........
Any Ideas ..
Thanks ..

These might have made to originals

http://www.ironsbrothers.com/
 
If they are fabricated steel plate, then take them to a local steel fabricator who should be able to make copies. Not difficult if you have the right kit. Have them hot dip galvanised - fabricator should be able to organise this.
 
replace bilge keels

Hi I replaced the steel keels on my colvic watson last year Fabrication of new cost aprox £160 cut to hull shape SS bolts £25 Sealed with polysulphide arboko sealant primocon and antifowl did it all myself very heavy aprox £300
 
Hi mike lilly I own a colvic watson and need to replace the bilge plates. I would be very interested in more detail if that is possible. Many thanks Haigh
 
I can’t help with your query I’m afraid but I thought I ought to let you know that you have answered a very old thread, and that mikelilly hasn’t posted anything on this site for more than a decade. If you wait patiently someone knowledgeable on here may be able to help but you’re more likely to get their attention if you start a new thread. Good luck!
 
Hi mike lilly I own a colvic watson and need to replace the bilge plates. I would be very interested in more detail if that is possible. Many thanks Haigh
Should be a straightforward job. support the boat leaving the bilge keel free but with blocks and a jack under it. Undo the nuts inside (you may have to move some furniture to get at them). Knock out the bolts then lower the jack. You may well find the keel is actually stuck to the hull with sealer so may need some persuading to part company so take care and perhaps add some support to the sides so that it does not fall over when it comes free. Trip to a steel fabricator to get new ones made and galvanised plus new bolts and nuts. Recommend a Polysulphide sealant as in post #5.

Remember though that many were home finished so details may differ - for example the nuts may be glassed over, but the principles are the same.
 
Should be a straightforward job. support the boat leaving the bilge keel free but with blocks and a jack under it. Undo the nuts inside (you may have to move some furniture to get at them). Knock out the bolts then lower the jack. You may well find the keel is actually stuck to the hull with sealer so may need some persuading to part company so take care and perhaps add some support to the sides so that it does not fall over when it comes free. Trip to a steel fabricator to get new ones made and galvanised plus new bolts and nuts. Recommend a Polysulphide sealant as in post #5.

Remember though that many were home finished so details may differ - for example the nuts may be glassed over, but the principles are the same.
If you take one of the keels to a fabricator to copy, check first whether or not they are not "handed" i.e. a port one and a starboard one. You don't want to end up with two port keels!
 
Yes they may be - or just different because they were made to "fit". I removed the bilge keels from my Eventide and 20 years later sold them to another owner and they fitted perfectly. Amazing, but both boats had keels made to the original drawings which were actually done for my boat, being the first 26' version.
 
Hi mike lilly I own a colvic watson and need to replace the bilge plates. I would be very interested in more detail if that is possible. Many thanks Haigh
No Watson was ever designed to have bilge keels. They were all added by owner/builders and frequently without adding sufficient internal structure to take the loads.
A couple of years ago a rather nice CW 28 with bilge plates grounded in the German Waddenzee in relatively benign weather and one of the bilge plates opened up a 2 foot hole in the hull like a can opener. The boat was a total write-off.

Additionally, the correct placement requires some considerable knowledge and experience, not always available to the amateur builder. In some cases incorrect placement has led to a further aggravation of an already excessive weatherhelm inherent in the original design. I own a 32 myself and have also done balance calculations for a 25.5 bilge keel with weatherhelm issues as well.

You will find that she will float just fine without and perform better to boot. Last thing a Watson needs is extra wetted area or additional ballast. Unless you absolutely need them for drying out (make sure they are properly supported on the inside), you might just want to remove them and plug the holes. Beaching can be successfully done with legs, as we do, and without further impairing performance.
 
Top