PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
The engine alternators connect the engine side of the battery isolators, with (I think, but do need to check this) a short link cable from the starter motor to the alternator, so in other words DO NOT EVER turn off the battery isolators with engines running. The charger connections are simple enough to hop from one side of the isolator switch to the other.
So with the battery isolators off the current draw disappears so that would rule out the engine alternators. Also after 24 hours off the battery had settled nicely at 14.0 volts.
So, the charger is still connected to the load side of the isolator and the current draw goes away with the isolator turned off ? That being the case, you are correct, it rules out the engine/alternator etc. Just a case, as you rightly say, of disconnecting things, one at a time.
14.0 volts for a rested 12v battery (no charge or loads) is incorrect, that just cannot happen.
Also as I now understand the separate Services battery selector, which is downstream of the battery isolators, parallels from both banks, so likely simplest I only ever run on the stbd bank. I will swap the port & stbd feed cables so '1' becomes the normal position, then All would only be used to parallel the banks (there is no cross over solenoid), and I can't see a need for position 2, unless the stbd bank were completely drained, as this rotary switch does feed the engine run supplies (both port and stbd from selected source).
Not entirely sure how this is setup Trev. When you refer to port and stb banks, are you referring to engine and domestic banks ? Sounds like the typical 1-2-B setup, where everything runs from position 1 or position 2 or the B setting runs everything from both banks in parallel. I'd definitely go for separate switches and some form of split charging.
So one final question - the Victron is 30a output, which is the highest Victron offer in this range. the Max "suggested" bank capacity is 300 AH, whereas I have, I discover, 690 AH (Port 230 + Stbd 460). The set up has certainly coped for 30 years on a 40 amp charger, and in reality will rarely be without either shorepower or engine generation, and the latter would always follow say a night at anchor, so can I be confident the 30a will cope ?
I was surprised how compact the thing is.
Whether you choose to continue with your description of using the 1-2-B switch above, or change to separate switches, the smaller bank will normally be fully charged. With your description above it will not get used, so need no charging, with separate switches it will be the engine bank, so will also not need much in the way of mains charging.
So, the domestic bank is the only one to be getting used, 460ah. In my experience, 30a will be fine, albeit not what you'll see "recommended" by various sources.
My Westerly has a 450ah bank of Trojan T105s and a large lead acid starter battery. During the Summer, charging is from 200w of solar power, with the occasional top up from the mains charger after 2 or 3 cloudy days. During the Winter charging is from a 30a Victron, the same as the one you just bought. Never had a problem with charging or batteries in 6 years living aboard.
My Princess has 4 x 120ah lead acid batteries and a pair of engine start batteries and they are all charged by a Mastervolt 20a charger. No problems with this setup.
Once the batteries are charged up the charger will switch to float or go to sleep, or whatever, the Victron will then act as a power supply to run services. As long as your loads don't exceed 30a it'll be fine.