Replacement seacock handle wanted

webcraft

webcraft

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I was going to replace the sink outlet seacock in Fairwinds but . . .

a) It's a bugger of a job - impossible space to get big spanners into / exert any leverage

b) After wire brushing the actual tail, ballvalve and skin fitting look fine . . . really the only bit that urgently needs replaced is the mild steel handle, which is rusted to buggery.

It's a straight handle with a red vinyl cover on it. Anyone got any idea where I might find one?

- W
 
Probably easier to find a ball valve with the same handle: http://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/ball-valves/cat3830014

I hope you have more luck than I did with this:

cock-001.jpg
 
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An appropriately sized ring spanner with the shaft cut down to a convenient length does a sterling job in the same circumstances for me.
It was a temporary fix seven years ago......
 
Easticks28 said:
An appropriately sized ring spanner with the shaft cut down to a convenient length does a sterling job in the same circumstances for me.
It was a temporary fix seven years ago......
Click to expand...

The leverage is exerted by a combination of an oval hole over a shaft with two flat sides and a square flange that lines up on a square nut-like think on the shaft. A ring spanner wouldn't work, though an open-ender could be used. No way of making it semi-permanent though.

rusty.jpg


- W
 
Simondjuk said:
When the handles rust, it's often because the seal on the handle shaft is weeping. I'd replace the valve.
Click to expand...

I'd probably replace the valve as well if I thought it was going to be within my capabilities, but it's impossible to get the large-sized spanners needed into the small-sized space the seacock inhabits.

- W
 
nigelmercier said:
I hope you have more luck than I did with this:

cock-001.jpg
Click to expand...

Errrm. I've just thrown two of those in the bin. Brand new, I was modifying the valves to share a single handle and operate as a changeover pair for fuel filters. Question is whether I ditched 'em before or after emptying the shed bin. If they're still there, do you want 'em?

Pete
 
webcraft said:
A ring spanner wouldn't work, though an open-ender could be used. No way of making it semi-permanent though.
Click to expand...

Glue :)

Alternatively, since this handle is nothing more than a strip of metal with a hole in, and an inappropriate metal for the purpose at that, why not get a short strip of stainless steel, drill a hole to the diameter of the short dimension, then file out the sides to make it rectangular? I did just that a month or so ago, to make the fuel valve handles referred to in my post above. I happened to have the stainless in my bits box (part of some gadget or other left by KS's previous owner) but Metal Supermarkets would cut you a bit for a couple of quid or if you don't have one locally I'm sure there are online and ebay suppliers.

Pete
 
prv said:
Glue :)

Alternatively, since this handle is nothing more than a strip of metal with a hole in, and an inappropriate metal for the purpose at that, why not get a short strip of stainless steel, drill a hole to the diameter of the short dimension, then file out the sides to make it rectangular? I did just that a month or so ago, to make the fuel valve handles referred to in my post above. I happened to have the stainless in my bits box (part of some gadget or other left by KS's previous owner) but Metal Supermarkets would cut you a bit for a couple of quid or if you don't have one locally I'm sure there are online and ebay suppliers.

Pete
Click to expand...

A green & energy saving solution to boot.
win win
 
Kip Marina chandlery have a box of the red handles, obviously a common problem, I lifted my boat today and replacing a couple of seacocks if up on the list. I know what you mean about the size of the spanner and the limited space though, think I'll need to borrow a pair of large stillsons..
 
Sorry, I think I may have caused confusion ...

Bojangles said:
Kip Marina chandlery have a box of the red handles...
Click to expand...
Is that the ones marked Italy that I was looking for (with the picture in post #2), or the OP (with the picture in post #6)?

prv said:
I've just thrown two of those in the bin... If they're still there, do you want 'em?
Click to expand...
Yes please Pete, but I think there are two sizes.

I've now found my original order for the ones in my picture in post #2. It was Aladdin's Cave (are they still going?) part number AF11-75040-3
 
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If someone could post the hole dimensions, or better still arrange to post me a rusty handle, I'll look at milling some holes in some flat stainless ones and do a batch production of a dozen or so if anyone's interested?
 
Nick, it's going to have to be replaced sometime isn't it? (the whole valve I mean)
Have you investigated the type of spanner plumbers use to fit sink taps - or make one by bending an appropriate open-ended spanner on the gas ring.
The other emergency tool I found in the shed was a brake adjuster - a longish spanner with square holes which may fit - or could be filed to suit, anyway it now lives aboard as brakes don't get adjusted any more.
 
webcraft said:
The leverage is exerted by a combination of an oval hole over a shaft with two flat sides and a square flange that lines up on a square nut-like think on the shaft. A ring spanner wouldn't work, though an open-ender could be used. No way of making it semi-permanent though.

rusty.jpg


- W
Click to expand...

Having been struck by the very same problem (as a temporary fix I used an open-ended spanner) - and found that if they had a steel handle they were always brass.
If you found one with an alloy handle it was probably DZR, still not bronze, but better than brass.
As suggested I changed all mine - price difference between DZR and brass was only a few cents at the bricolagerie in Perpignan when I did it in 2002.
 
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nigelmercier said:
Sorry, I think I may have caused confusion ...


Is that the ones marked Italy that I was looking for (with the picture in post #2), or the OP (with the picture in post #6)?


I couldnt say if they were marked Italy but they were the same as the ones I removed yesterday and I noticed the valve body (of the seized one with broken handle) was marked Italy.
Click to expand...
 
I have recently found most skin fittings depleted on my Beneteau Oceanis. It is kept on a half tide drying mooring and ashore each winter. It has only been in the water for 8 summers. One fitting broke off while removing to inspect, so I am taking them all to pieces. Although only one showed any signs of deterioration I now find most of them have been depleted. The skin fittings should last much longer.

As OP has said, a really difficult job with very large nuts in difficult confined spaces. I have purchase an Eclipse Wide Jaw Adjustable Wrench - 10" with 50mm jaw, from here …
http://www.toolventure.co.uk/hand-tools/sj-adjw10wj.html
Available at other sites also, but this was the cheapest I could find. Ordered Easter Saturday arrived Wed 3rd. Really helped to do the job, which is half done already.
As others have said, you are well advised to take the fittings to pieces. Good luck, George.
 
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A friend is going to make me a stainless handle.

I've already separated the hose tail from the body of the seacock using a very large spanner and lots of oomph levering only against the fitting itself as I couldn't get a spanner on lower down. I managed this without breaking the fitting or disturbing the through-hull - - so its integrity seems good, and there is no sign of pinkiness. It was all gunged up with some sort of thread sealant . . . what should I use when re-assembling?

The Eclipse wide jawed wrench looks brilliant, but you would really need two surely?

- W
 
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