Replacement metal fuel pipe section - suggestions?

[Bertie1972]

I'm replacing the fuel shut off valve in my Bav with a new one in accordance with received wisdom of other owners (inc Nigel Mercier RIP).

I'm also replacing the hose, but as can be seen in the pic, the steel pipes that come through the bulkhead in elongated elbows also need replacing.

Am I likely to get something similar made up anywhere, or will I have to use copper pipe bent to size with compression to rubber pipe fittings on the hose ends?

 

[lw395]

Those fittings might be crimped on by a hose supplier.
You're not supposed to use copper or brass in diesel systems these days, it causes the fuel to break down producing tarry gunge.
You might get a similar fitting in stainless, perhaps on a stainless braided hose?
People use such things for fuel and oil on motorbikes, rally cars and so forth, so suppliers in that industry can probably help.

 

[pvb]

I'm replacing the fuel shut off valve in my Bav with a new one in accordance with received wisdom of other owners (inc Nigel Mercier RIP).

Do you actually need a fuel shut-off valve? There's one on my 2014 Bavaria, and I think it has copper pipe connections, but I'm not convinced it's really required (perhaps only for some obscure CE marking rule).

 

[Bertie1972]

Do you actually need a fuel shut-off valve? There's one on my 2014 Bavaria, and I think it has copper pipe connections, but I'm not convinced it's really required (perhaps only for some obscure CE marking rule).

pvb, that occurred to me - thought process was that I'm planning to replace my metal bowl CAV with a Racor with a see through bowl and figured keeping a shut off valve maintained a degree of safety in the event of a fire. I know the filter should have a metal bowl in its location, but was ofsetting that risk against convenience of being able to see water in the bowl.

I guess I could/should simply have a metal bowl model and dispense with the shut off valve

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

if there is a plumbing solution that has the valve behind (the wrong side) of the bulkhead, you can get valve stem adapters to extend the handle back to the right side.

 

[lw395]

I would want a fuel shut-off somewhere in the system, unless the tank is in the keel.
Extending the valve spindle through the bulkhead seems sane.

 

[pvb]

pvb, that occurred to me - thought process was that I'm planning to replace my metal bowl CAV with a Racor with a see through bowl and figured keeping a shut off valve maintained a degree of safety in the event of a fire. I know the filter should have a metal bowl in its location, but was ofsetting that risk against convenience of being able to see water in the bowl.

I guess I could/should simply have a metal bowl model and dispense with the shut off valve

Presumably the fuel is taken from the top of the tank, and I'd imagine most of the piping is quite high up relative to the tank. In the highly unlikely event of a fire, if the engine is turned off there's probably not going to be much fuel around.

 

[Plum]

I guess I could/should simply have a metal bowl model and dispense with the shut off valve

You can get a Racor filter with a clear plastic bowl that has a metal heat shield below it that complies with the bss inland waterways requirements, however, I would always fit a cutoff valve if there is any chance at all of fuel draining or syphoning out (which can happen even if the outlet is at the top of the tank) when working on the system. If you want to be able to shut off in the advent of a fire, where do you put the valve???? I have a ball valve with a metal rod on the end of the lever that operates the valve remotely by push/pull.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[pagoda]

Presumably the fuel is taken from the top of the tank, and I'd imagine most of the piping is quite high up relative to the tank. In the highly unlikely event of a fire, if the engine is turned off there's probably not going to be much fuel around.

It would be worth considering a low pressure non-return valve in the "return to tank" line from the engine, close to the tank. If anything untoward happens to that line, your bilges could fill with diesel!

 

[rszemeti]

Presumably the fuel is taken from the top of the tank ...

Fuel is normally taken from the lowest point in the tank, for obvious reasons.

 

[pvb]

Fuel is normally taken from the lowest point in the tank, for obvious reasons.

Yes, but with a dip tube from the top of the tank.

 

[Bertie1972]

Thanks all, you've given me some usefuyl options I hadn't considered.

if there is a plumbing solution that has the valve behind (the wrong side) of the bulkhead, you can get valve stem adapters to extend the handle back to the right side.

Lon nan Gruagach, I couldn't finds these with Google - do you have a link by any chance?

 

[ithet]

I have a fuel cut off ball valve operated by a bowden cable.

 

[prv]

I'm also replacing the hose, but as can be seen in the pic, the steel pipes that come through the bulkhead in elongated elbows also need replacing.

The hose and the "steel pipe" are a single part. A hydraulics supplier like Hyphose ought to be able to help.

Pete

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

Thanks all, you've given me some usefuyl options I hadn't considered.



Lon nan Gruagach, I couldn't finds these with Google - do you have a link by any chance?

Forgive the foreignness of the link, I too am having trouble re-finding it... but heres the idea
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-BA-475B-xH-Extension-Inline-Female/dp/B006X65320


I seem to remember making rather than buying them:
the concept is a long bolt and tube with the handle at the top and a plate at the bottom resembling the valve end of the handle...
The tube has the ends filed so the handle locates in it (like 2 castellations), and the same at the bottom.
The plate at the bottom has a slot cut in the middle to locate on the valve spigot and a lump sticking out the side to catch the rotation end stops on the valve body end stops.
The easiest way to manufacture the bottom plate would be to buy a replacement handle and chop off the handle part.

edit add:
this might make more sense: https://www.danmat.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=57&page=2

 

[Daverw]

Extensions easily available for any ball valve from valve supplier, about £10 each, but very easy to make them, we use them all the time for valves in lagged pipework

 

[Malish]

You're not supposed to use copper or brass in diesel systems these days, it causes the fuel to break down producing tarry gunge.

'78 build boat, copper fuel pipe still in sound working order with no tar issues, maybe copper was different back then...

 

[PCUK]

Copper is fine for fuel lines. A copper tank could be a different matter if the fuel wasn't used for years!