Replacement engine for Jeanneau Sun Legende 41. Original Perkins M50

I had to reduce the exhaust diameter too. I found someone on ebay who made me a stainless reducer which I put between the engine and the waterlock. It was made as a car exhaust reducer (so made in 304 stainless), but it works perfectly.
I was going to go for an auto-type (I guess they're usually for slip-joints/weld-in applications?), but to my pleasant surprise the Centek epoxy 'marine'-type wasn't that pricey and should last forever: Centek Straight Reducer Coupling 64mm to 51mm
 
?? ... plus make sure you’ve got clearance aft for the exhaust elbow/mixer. Beta (or your dealer) will supply technical drawings and the yard should want to check this anyway. Let us know what you decide. Reckon more owners will be looking at these Beta models as the Perkins get longer in the tooth.
Yes, could be the way.
By the way, the Beta43 and 50 with the standard TMC60 reverse gear can run LH-ahead if you specify the optional (gearbox) oil cooler which only adds £100 or so to the price.

Is the oil cooler worth co
 
It's Beta's recommended solution should you want to retain an existing LH prop. It seemed like a no-brainer because you could always change to a RH prop anyway and still have the benefit of the cooler. Although I ordered my 43 with it I never got to try it as I sold the boat before getting around to re-engining. Should you be interested in a zero hours 43 still sitting on it's Beta delivery pallet then PM me..
 
It's Beta's recommended solution should you want to retain an existing LH prop. It seemed like a no-brainer because you could always change to a RH prop anyway and still have the benefit of the cooler. Although I ordered my 43 with it I never got to try it as I sold the boat before getting around to re-engining. Should you be interested in a zero hours 43 still sitting on it's Beta delivery pallet then PM me..

Yes, that would be interesting. Is it standard spec? Does it have wiring harness, standard alternator etc? Maybe PM me with idea of what you are looking for it and where you are located.
 
Settled on the Beta 43hp 4 cylinder.

The yard have just fitted it into the engine bay and because it is a bit taller they have had to move back around 4 inches.

As the plan was to use the existing shaft and feathering propeller this means that the propeller is an extra 4 inches beyond the P-bracket.

I was concerned that this might great some extra torsion on the P-bracket with the inertia from the propeller.

Should the prop shaft be shortened and rethreaded or will the extra distance of the propeller from the P-bracket be ok?
 
Settled on the Beta 43hp 4 cylinder.

The yard have just fitted it into the engine bay and because it is a bit taller they have had to move back around 4 inches.

As the plan was to use the existing shaft and feathering propeller this means that the propeller is an extra 4 inches beyond the P-bracket.

I was concerned that this might great some extra torsion on the P-bracket with the inertia from the propeller.

Should the prop shaft be shortened and rethreaded or will the extra distance of the propeller from the P-bracket be ok?

Good choice of engine.

Probably fine, but if you want to have it shortened, best to cut a bit off from the engine end.
 
Good choice of engine.

Probably fine, but if you want to have it shortened, best to cut a bit off from the engine end.

I did read somewhere that the distance of prop from P bracket should be no more than the diameter of the shaft.

If that is the case then it will need shortening.
 
I did read somewhere that the distance of prop from P bracket should be no more than the diameter of the shaft.

If that is the case then it will need shortening.
Yes, Definitely. The shaft should be cut so that the distance between the P bracket and the front of the prop is approx 15mm - enough to allow water to flow freely through the cutless. However if you intend fitting a rope cutter you should make an allowance for this. For example you need to leave 40mm for a Stripper.
 
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