D
DogWatch
Guest
Reposting as I deleted the images from photobucket. Hope this helps someone in the future who may be contemplating this rather too common job on the 1GM10.
A common fault on yanmar 1GM10 engines is a dripping from the tell-tale hole on the water-pump. Left alone this will cause corrosion around the pump and will almost certainly corrode the oil pipes which are directly below the pump.
New seals for the pump will fix the problem and are a lot cheaper than buying new oil pipes. Though these can be manufactured from rubber hose by a hydraulic specialist, mine cost £9.00 for the two pipes. yanmar will remove £70+ from your wallet for genuine parts.
Left leaking for long enough, water might breach the oil seal. Sea water will not only destroy the pump bearings but could theoretically enter the engine. If your pump is dripping, fix it now.
I have recently repaired one of my pumps and photographed the method I used; this can be carried out by any competent diy’er. Tools required,
10mm spanner to remove pump.
7mm spanner to remove impeller cover.
Long nose pliers or proper tool to remove bearing retaining clip
11mm, 3/4in sockets and hammer to drift new seals.
Bearing grease
Sharp blade to remove gasket
Cleaning materials (wire or brass brushes)
wet and dry med & fine to clean and polish shaft
Spray paint
128170-42120 Water pump seal (This is the one which has failed)
128170-42110 Water pump oil seal (You WILL damage this to get at the leaking one)
128170-42090 Water pump cover gasket (gasket seal if you must!)
The first thing we must do is remove the retaining clip, careful with this I had to find it by a plant pot on my patio as it got away.
Now remove the impeller cover by removing the 3 retaining bolts. This allows you to remove and inspect the impeller and then gently drift the shaft and bearings out of the pump.
Here is the shaft and bearing races. When I removed this I found a small amount of melted rubber on the shaft which had come of the water seal and was the reason for the leak. I scraped off the rubber with a scalpel and used a little wet and dry to ensure the shaft was clean. The first time I posted this, someone kindly informed me there was too much scoring on the shaft and in no way could it or would it make a seal. That was 4 years ago and it is still sealed, maybe not text book, but real world.
I can’t give chapter and verse on removing the old seals, it isn’t easy. Lots of tapping with screwdrivers and tugging with pliers is required. Do try not to damage the pump, it is bronze and there for not as strong as your screwdriver.
Fitting the new water seal with an 11mm socket as a drift.
Gently (gently means gently) drift the new seal home.
The water seal home and sealed.
The oil seal home and fitted.
The bearings were cleaned and re-greased. I used the ¾ socket to tap them home.
All openings and unpainted areas masked off for spraying
Finished and ready to go to the boat
>>>>> I tried to find alternate parts (seals) from auto parts specialists and a well known marine hydraulic engineers in Warrington. After a day driving around I gave up and resorted to genuine parts.
I went to a place called Alec Martin Marine on the Wirral. Not only was he the only place holding stock, he was also the cheapest. A proper old fashioned marine engineers. For most marine stuff, give them a call, he knows his stuff! They will mail order.
**usual disclaimers apply**
A common fault on yanmar 1GM10 engines is a dripping from the tell-tale hole on the water-pump. Left alone this will cause corrosion around the pump and will almost certainly corrode the oil pipes which are directly below the pump.
New seals for the pump will fix the problem and are a lot cheaper than buying new oil pipes. Though these can be manufactured from rubber hose by a hydraulic specialist, mine cost £9.00 for the two pipes. yanmar will remove £70+ from your wallet for genuine parts.
Left leaking for long enough, water might breach the oil seal. Sea water will not only destroy the pump bearings but could theoretically enter the engine. If your pump is dripping, fix it now.
I have recently repaired one of my pumps and photographed the method I used; this can be carried out by any competent diy’er. Tools required,
10mm spanner to remove pump.
7mm spanner to remove impeller cover.
Long nose pliers or proper tool to remove bearing retaining clip
11mm, 3/4in sockets and hammer to drift new seals.
Bearing grease
Sharp blade to remove gasket
Cleaning materials (wire or brass brushes)
wet and dry med & fine to clean and polish shaft
Spray paint
128170-42120 Water pump seal (This is the one which has failed)
128170-42110 Water pump oil seal (You WILL damage this to get at the leaking one)
128170-42090 Water pump cover gasket (gasket seal if you must!)
The first thing we must do is remove the retaining clip, careful with this I had to find it by a plant pot on my patio as it got away.
Now remove the impeller cover by removing the 3 retaining bolts. This allows you to remove and inspect the impeller and then gently drift the shaft and bearings out of the pump.
Here is the shaft and bearing races. When I removed this I found a small amount of melted rubber on the shaft which had come of the water seal and was the reason for the leak. I scraped off the rubber with a scalpel and used a little wet and dry to ensure the shaft was clean. The first time I posted this, someone kindly informed me there was too much scoring on the shaft and in no way could it or would it make a seal. That was 4 years ago and it is still sealed, maybe not text book, but real world.
I can’t give chapter and verse on removing the old seals, it isn’t easy. Lots of tapping with screwdrivers and tugging with pliers is required. Do try not to damage the pump, it is bronze and there for not as strong as your screwdriver.
Fitting the new water seal with an 11mm socket as a drift.
Gently (gently means gently) drift the new seal home.
The water seal home and sealed.
The oil seal home and fitted.
The bearings were cleaned and re-greased. I used the ¾ socket to tap them home.
All openings and unpainted areas masked off for spraying
Finished and ready to go to the boat
>>>>> I tried to find alternate parts (seals) from auto parts specialists and a well known marine hydraulic engineers in Warrington. After a day driving around I gave up and resorted to genuine parts.
I went to a place called Alec Martin Marine on the Wirral. Not only was he the only place holding stock, he was also the cheapest. A proper old fashioned marine engineers. For most marine stuff, give them a call, he knows his stuff! They will mail order.
**usual disclaimers apply**
