Replace shaft seals on 110S saildrive

[sthurley]

Hello, this is probably an old question, however I need to replace the shaft seals on the prop shaft of a 110S saildrive leg - lower unit. I have an old PBO article that shows this being done, giving the impression that the bearing carrier (part that also houses the seals) should just slide off the shaft. I have attached images of the parts removed from my gear box and I would like some reassurance that the carrier should slide off because looking at what I have gives the impression that the gear cog etc needs to come off before the bearing carrier etc can be released?

 

[Martin_J]

It should just pull off.. The only thing that can be holding it on are the two seals (one keeping oil in and the other keeping sea water out).

Perhaps with a bit of a spin as you pull.. Be very careful as it comes off that you don't drop either part (especially the heavy shaft).

 

[Martin_J]

I seem to remember that to take out the sea water seal you need to remove the bearing ring... That can be pushed out with (I think) a 36mm socket but be very careful as it comes out because it is shimmed from behind..

The shim washers are very very flimsy indeed... the thickness of tracing paper.

 

[sthurley]

Hello Martin

It does not want to budge - I have even resorted to hitting the flange with a plastic mallet on the surface under the gear cog. On the inside of the flange on the gear cog side the is a large nut screwed into the flange as though it clamps the bearing in place have you any experience of having to remove it. For the amount of hammering I have done there is no way that two ruber seals is all that is holding it on?

 

[sthurley]

Got it sorted - found a workshop manual on line which shows my set-up - My saildrive is from 1980 and I think younger versions are slightly different. In mine there is a locking screw to take out and then the big nut needs unscrewed - this is the bearing housing. Once unscrewed a few light taps on the shaft released it. It looks like the internal shaft seal has been put in crooked - don't know when that would have been done. There are no shims so literally just need to replace the seals and screw back together - phew!

 

[colhel]

Do you have a link to the article please?

 

[colhel]

Got it sorted - found a workshop manual on line which shows my set-up - My saildrive is from 1980 and I think younger versions are slightly different. In mine there is a locking screw to take out and then the big nut needs unscrewed - this is the bearing housing. Once unscrewed a few light taps on the shaft released it. It looks like the internal shaft seal has been put in crooked - don't know when that would have been done. There are no shims so literally just need to replace the seals and screw back together - phew!

It might be worth checking the shaft for wear, this is why I think ours needs changing.

 

[Martin_J]

Apologies.. From the photos it looks very similar to the 120s shown here Shims shown as part #14.

Looking back through the threads, VicS previously linked to the MarinepartsEurope diagram for your 110s.

Not sure how he found the picture. Previous thread.

 

[VicS]

.

VicS previously linked to the MarinepartsEurope diagram for your 110s.

Not sure how he found the picture.

From one of engine parts sections I'd think.

 

[Martin_J]

That figures.. I only looked in the Drives and Transmissions section

 

[Martin_J]

VicS.. You're right.. Do I sound surprised

The 110s appears in the Engine section whereas the 120s appears in the Drives section!

From what I see there are two 110s lower units...

One with a nut as per the OP and one with a thrust ring and pin

 

[sthurley]

just for completeness and to answer Col's request, the workshop manual is here: http://boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/110s.html#/0 , it is not printable as far as I can tell. I have attached a few more photos showing how the shaft looks when out of the bearing carrier - note the nut, it holds the bearing in place (there is a locking screw which can only be removed with grips, the nut itself had been abused previously so had to use a cold chisel and hammer to loosen), the PBO article I refered to was from 2003, it shows this section being taken apart but the bearing is tapered. You can understand the importance of the shims to ensure the bearing is properly seated once the carrier is bolted back to the leg. At least down the line when I need to do this again I can refer back to this thread with the photos!! Oh by the way, to extract the carrier from the leg initially I used a slide hammer which I made myself - simply 8mm threaded bar (screws into the prop shaft), aluminium turned down to fit into a steel tube creates the hammer - this has a 10mm hole drilled up the centre and finally a metal plate bolted on the other end of the 8mm bar to give something to strike against - 3 thumps and the hole thing popped out. As for the sump drain bolt - it was hectic, had to use an impact driver in the end.

Thanks for all the help

Stephen

 

[Cantata]

Thinking about doing this job on my 120S this winter - not leaking but 15 years old now so one day it will.
Did you just buy two new seals or is it wise to replace anything else e.g the O-rings shown in the exploded parts view?

 

[sthurley]

Hello cantata, replace 2no. Shaft seals (1 to keep oil in, 1 to keep sea out) and both o rings. Go to key part for the items, you can buy the sample the seal kit. When putting the flange back in you should put a smear of sealant on the rings, use loft it flange sealant 5922, you can get this in half odds rather than key part for half the price. I bought the complete seal kit which was only £7 more just in case down the line I need to change other seals in the leg.

 

[sthurley]

That was loctite sealant and shaft seal kit, the iPad was making words up - should have previewed response!

 

[Cantata]

Thanks.
And I thought you'd been at the shandies again...
Amd we've got a branch of half odds locally for the Loctite...