Refueler
Well-Known Member
Easy enough ... remove locking pins ... block at fwd end ... lines to pull fwd or aft ... rope clutch ..
Replace Genoa Cars with Barber Haul entirely? How does that work?
- Thread starter DangerousPirate
- Start date
Easy enough ... remove locking pins ... block at fwd end ... lines to pull fwd or aft ... rope clutch ..
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Towable cars provide up/down adjustment. The return bungee cord typically only lasts a few seasons, so some maintenance. You may need lower friction cars (bearings or plastic liners) than the simple cars you have, requiring car replacement ($$).
A barber hauler provides inwards adjustment.
3D leads provide up down, inwards, and outwards adjustment.
In other words, these are not at all the same things.
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And I don't think towable cars are actually any simpler, once the tackle and clutch/cam cleat is considered. Just a new way of looking at it.
Lucky Duck
Well-Known Member
Indeed if you have something like a JPK, Sunfast or a multihull, but the OP appears to have a 1970s boat which has an overlapping Genoa with the jib track on or near the toe rail so for example the ability to ‘inhaul’ is going to be very limited on account of the side stays.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Yes, the best answer is boat-specific. My suggestion is to test hauling in all directions, look at anchor options and obstructions, and then choose. I've done this a little differently on each of the four boats I have owned. I posted many times because I think trimming sails perfectly is not just a racer thing; more importantly, it is fun.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Its a typical design 'fault' of the era ..... I've noted an odd boat try to solve this by having dual sheet leads ... one outside - one inside stays ... but it can become a mess if not handled carefully.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Yup, kind of a pain but workable. In this case the multihull cap shrouds prevent hauling a ~ 125% genoa close enough for windward work. An outside track makes it into a reaching powerhouse.
That is what worked for my PDQ, since the angles were wrong for 3D leads. There is also a down haul available for the outside track (same as spinnaker twing) when reaching deep but it rigs with a small snatch block and is not rigged at this time (looks like post 8, but only for the outside sheet). Soft shackles make it easy to remove the unused sheet if desired.
Different solutions for every boat.
DangerousPirate
Well-Known Member
I was thinking about this not very long ago actually.
And regarding "towable cars" - I have mentioned it. It's either that option or barber haul. And BH are just cheaper and quicker to install.
William_H
Well-Known Member
It probably has all been said. However to reiterate with a typical small monohull with roller reefing of the jib it is essential to adjust the sheeting point forward as you reef.
This is often done with jib car track and locking jib car. (or not at all_) Not very easy in a blow. So almost essentially you need a towable jib car. So you can move it forward remotely from cockpit. Good but if jib sheet is under load you can not easily slide the car.
Or as said use a barber hauler system to pull the jib sheet down to the front of the track when reefing. Simple fix.
Now sheeting in board or out board can be useful especially if it means you don't need a whisker pole. So another barber hauler can pull the sheet out and forward when off the wind. You can more easily hold a course down wind with jib wing a wing (goose winged) But this is not so useful on my little boat as distance out board from track for the deck sheave is not enough so while I can rig one I seldom use it.
OP may be able to get some inboard pull with well reefed jib by pulling from near centre line but again on my little boat not practical on the smaller hank on jibs.
I actually continue to use the sliding jib car with plunger stopper but seldom change jibs on an outing (race) To me it is all about efficient up wind sailing. ol'will
This is often done with jib car track and locking jib car. (or not at all_) Not very easy in a blow. So almost essentially you need a towable jib car. So you can move it forward remotely from cockpit. Good but if jib sheet is under load you can not easily slide the car.
Or as said use a barber hauler system to pull the jib sheet down to the front of the track when reefing. Simple fix.
Now sheeting in board or out board can be useful especially if it means you don't need a whisker pole. So another barber hauler can pull the sheet out and forward when off the wind. You can more easily hold a course down wind with jib wing a wing (goose winged) But this is not so useful on my little boat as distance out board from track for the deck sheave is not enough so while I can rig one I seldom use it.
OP may be able to get some inboard pull with well reefed jib by pulling from near centre line but again on my little boat not practical on the smaller hank on jibs.
I actually continue to use the sliding jib car with plunger stopper but seldom change jibs on an outing (race) To me it is all about efficient up wind sailing. ol'will
flaming
Well-Known Member
Rule of thumb, if you have a genoa - one with significant overlap to the mast - then LRFs and inhaulers are not what you're after. If however you have a non-overlapping jib and are not inhauling then you're probably leaving performance on the table in the light.
If is possible to use a LFR with a "downhaul" as a sort of substitute for a towable car on a boat with a genoa, and it can work well. However there are 2 downsides. Firstly, if the clew of your sail is quite high cut, then the LFR will need to be quite high too, and that gives it a lot of scope to fly around when powered by a flogging sheet. I have seen a cabin window shattered by an LFR. Secondly, if you do need this longer lead, be aware that you'll lose some sheeting angle as there's nothing to stop it from falling away to leward. Unless you start also inhauling, but that's tricky if the LFR is some distance off the deck.
However, where the genoa is low cut, these issues are much more under control.
My own setup, on a performance boat with non overlapping sails, is a double ended inhauler - so that both port and starboard adjust at the same time. In conjunction with a short track. If I was starting from scratch I would have an athwartships track, and down and in haulers. As indeed the replacement model does....
Refueler
Well-Known Member
The matter really comes down to sitting and drawing a simple angle pattern ... geometry solution.
Each boat will have a slight different angle req't ... and as you change sail size (furling or hanked) - that also affects angles.
I said it before and I shall repeat - too often I see boats flying a too big genny - thinking they will gain from it ... but in fact - so often change from a 'sweeper' to a shorter foot foresail and boat is much better ...
Each boat will have a slight different angle req't ... and as you change sail size (furling or hanked) - that also affects angles.
I said it before and I shall repeat - too often I see boats flying a too big genny - thinking they will gain from it ... but in fact - so often change from a 'sweeper' to a shorter foot foresail and boat is much better ...