Removing Wire From Exhaust Hose

C

capricorn

Well-Known Member
Joined
26 Jul 2004
Messages
298
Visit site
My wet exhaust hose is leaking a bit where it connects to the waterlock. I suspect that I'm going to have to replace the whole hose.

Apparently wet exhaust hose has a continuous length of wire as part of it's make up that gives it it's stiffness. I'm told that it's necessary to remove the wire for 18" or so at each end to give enough flexibility to attache it to the fittings. I had a look at some hose in the chandler's yesterday and removing this wire doesn't appear to be trivial. Any tips for how to do this ?

I may bottle it and just lag the leaking section with hose repair tape of similar but I'm loath to bodge it.
 
I've never heard of sutch a thing, and I've don a few. Just cot the rubber back nice and square hith a hacksaw, then cut the wire with a pair of snips. If the hose has to be crushed to fit the spigot then it's the wrong size hose.
 
Did the job last year without removing wire, in order to keep structural caracteristics of the pipe; a little tiring but no major pb; good thing is to get exact length of pipe, so to follow the old one curves.
Cheers,
Gianenrico
 
Just grab the wire in a pair of mole grips and pull. It takes a bit of brute force, but certainly not the strength of Hercules.

When you come to reattach, don't, whatever you do, use jubilee clips, they're a complete waste of time with thick wall tubing, get the Mikalor clamps, but be careful, some swindleries sell them with stainless band & mild steel bolt. You can get them in all stainless.
 
Why?
I have never had to remove the wire from exhaust hose.

I think doing that would damage the hose and reduce it's life.

I have also never seen any referance to doing this previously.

The clips used should certainly be heavy duty but when double clipped I have never had any problems with jubilee clips on pipes from 45mm to 60mm.

Iain
 
I've never done it and would be reluctant to start! Befroe you rip the wire out, you've got a stiff hose made up of an inner and an out bonded together wit hthe wire set into the rubber. As you rip it out, you'll destroy the bond between the inner and outer hoses AND you'll end up with a void between them which, to my mind, you will NEVER be able to clamp as effectively as the original. The outer will have to collapse uniformly before it even TOUCHES the inner - never mind compress it on to the spigot!!!!! My waterlock is plastic anyway so I wouldn't be able to exert much clamping force on the hose before the spigot collapsed anyway!
 
Snap!

Same here. never heard of pulling the wire out, Jubilee clips work fine with mine, which is the regular Vetus stuff.

All I would say is - measure for length, twice, carefully, as it costs an arm and a leg, and you don't want to waste it.
 
dont recommend removing the wire, its there for a purpose.

if your struggling to get the hose on the spigot, stick the hose in a cup of very hot water.
 
Quite correct. 4" (100mm) should be ample and is the recommended way to ensure a really tight fit at the exhaust elbow and outlet using standard Jubilee hose clips without risking the thread stripping.

Told about this 'trick' many, many years ago by a marine engineer.
 
Lots of advice that you may as well have an entirely rubber hose as destroy its integrity at connection points.

The wire is needed to keep the hose in place on occasions when the temperature rises due to a problem with the cooling water. The consequences of the problem getting far worse due to the collapse of a baked brittle hose you may judge best being most familiar with your particular installation.

The hose is very stiff and difficult to work with however plumbers pipe assembly lubricant used to assemble water and drain pipes is readily available at plumbers merchants and a good deal better lubricant than washing up liquid, soap,hand cleaner,flux or even oil whilst not damaging the hose either. It doesn't help with the stiffness however. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
The whole idea that the hose may collapse after removing 4" of the wire is silly, the same 4"goes over the exaust pipe which naturally prevents it from collapsing it can then be made to fit snugly, result, no leaks, which is where the thread started!!
 
Yes agree with removing a few inches worth of wire. That's what we were advised to do. Mole grips and brute force.

Dont remove it you don't have to though and don't remove more than necessary.

It won't collapse because the bit you've removed the wire from is on pushed onto the fitting!
 
ehmmm summerwind, thankyou for your totally unhelpful input, you are obviously lucky enougth to own a huge boat.

as for mine, my 1gm10 hose fits easily into a cup, and looking at the original posters profile i suspect his engine is a similar size.
 
Thanks for the replies, I had no idea that I was asking such a contentious question !

The current hose clearly has had the wire removed for a length at both ends as it's clearly much more flexible at the ends.I suspect that the very reason I've got a leaking hose in the first place is that it's been weakened at these points where the stresses on it are greatest.

I don't think that I'll be able to get the required bend at the waterlock and outlet without pulling some of the wire but I'll have a go without doing so.

Yes, you're right in your assumption that I (sadly) don't have 6" exhaust hose, I think it's 1.25" or 1.5" I haven't measured it yet. You're also right that it costs an arm and a leg, £22 a meter from Mailspeed, anyone recomend a chaper source ?
 
A few of points to note when you are trying to insert the wired tube.

The best stuff to lubricate the inner of the tube with is the plumbers stuff for lubricating the rubber joints on underground soil pipes. The use of 'squeezy' there is not recommended, it is corrosive. You can get it in very small tubes from Wickes.

Use hot water to soften the rubber and lubricate the outside of the male tube.

When inserting any spiral pipe on to a tube always twist the pipe in the direction which opens up the spiral. This will give you the additional fraction of a mm extra internal diameter to allow it to be fitted.

Iain
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top