Removing stuck fuel filter

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eddystone

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Refuses to budge with a strap wrench because of where it is can’t get real purchase with ratchet
Any reason why I shouldn’t punch a long screwdriver through it apart from the mess?
 
eddystone said:
Refuses to budge with a strap wrench because of where it is can’t get real purchase with ratchet
Any reason why I shouldn’t punch a long screwdriver through it apart from the mess?
Click to expand...
Update forgot I had an extension bar so now I’ve room to turn ratchet but but all it’s doing is crushing the filter
 
eddystone said:
Refuses to budge with a strap wrench because of where it is can’t get real purchase with ratchet
Any reason why I shouldn’t punch a long screwdriver through it apart from the mess?
Click to expand...
It's actually recommended by some. Less mess...as follows:

If you have drained / sucked out the oil from the sump, the filter isn't full. Only the lower part (in horizontal position) is full.

So when you stab it, you shouldn't expect much mess. Then you rotate it 90 degrees and the contents can be poured out of the little hole you made. Finally once it's drained...hey-presto.
 
RJJ said:
It's actually recommended by some. Less mess...as follows:

If you have drained / sucked out the oil from the sump, the filter isn't full. Only the lower part (in horizontal position) is full.

So when you stab it, you shouldn't expect much mess. Then you rotate it 90 degrees and the contents can be poured out of the little hole you made. Finally once it's drained...hey-presto.
Click to expand...
Trouble is it’s a fuel filter....
 
So next question - leaving the bleed screw on the CAV closed but opening the one on the fine filter action on lift pump seems to have filled the glass bowl - do I actually need to open bleed screw on CAV or can I get all the air out from the bleed on secondary?
 
eddystone said:
So next question - leaving the bleed screw on the CAV closed but opening the one on the fine filter action on lift pump seems to have filled the glass bowl - do I actually need to open bleed screw on CAV or can I get all the air out from the bleed on secondary?
Click to expand...

You should be able to remove the air via the bleed screw on the fine filter.
 
That worked.
I’m curious as to at what stage you can be confident that all the air has been bled out. I’ve started it a few times and it stopped after a while. After further bleeding I’ve run it in gear for about 5 minutes up to about 1600 rpm and then out of gear up to 3000 rpm for a while and seems ok.
 
eddystone said:
So next question - leaving the bleed screw on the CAV closed but opening the one on the fine filter action on lift pump seems to have filled the glass bowl - do I actually need to open bleed screw on CAV or can I get all the air out from the bleed on secondary?
Click to expand...

Is your fuel filter a CAV type or have I misunderstood as there is a bolt on the top of a CAV that holds the filter, glass bowl and metal base together.

I fitted a drain tap in the metal base so I can drain the filter before removing it to make filter changer less messy
 
Yes it is what you describe; it does have a bleed screw but I found it better to just use the one on the secondary filter; bleeding went reasonably ok I usually have big problems getting the bowl on the CAV to fill with fuel but the lift pump on the Beta is a bit feeble. It started twice running for longer each time before stopping. More pumping and 3rd start seems ok but I’m going to run it longer on and off load to make sure there is no air trapped
 
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