Removing Propellor

[Talbot]

I have changed from a simple drive to a sail drive. I will need to be able to remove the propellor in order to replace the anode on the saildrive.

Will I need a gear puller to do this?

Should this be a 3 or 2 leg puller (From the hub dimensions this will need to be an 8 inch puller)

Any recomendations for a reasonably priced version, (if I need one!)

 

[nigelmercier]

Depends if the splines were greased last time.

 

[Tranona]

You don't need a puller. Remove the cone and the prop is on a spline. It will just slide off. You won't be able to get a puller behind the hub anyway.

 

[Halo]

"simple" drive shaft has a taper and key and needs a puller or heat
sail drive has splines and should come off with a manual tug - it is typically simpler to remove than a simple drive

 

[Halo]

p.s. the latest Yanmar anodes come in bits so you are supposed to be able to change them without taking off the prop . Has anyone done this?

 

[Baggywrinkle]

If it's a volvo saildrive like mine where the anode can only be removed by removing the prop then

First bend all the locking tabs back behind the cone on the end of the prop with a flat bladed screwdriver. They no longer prevent the cone being turned.
Then put a wooden block between the prop blades and the hull to prevent the shaft from turning and undo the retaining nut in the end of the cone using a stout allan key and unscrew the cone (if I remember rightly with a screwdriver through the hole).

The prop should then slide off - it's not an interference fit like a bearing. As already mentioned it depends if the prop has corroded onto the drive splines which should not be the case if the anode is regularly serviced properly as the prop will come off once a year anyway.

Don't forget to loctite the screws holding the anode on, mine worked loose and cost €200 for the lift and hold to screw it back on.

When putting it back on, dont forget to bend the tabs on the locking ring back.

I'm sure someone more qualified will tell you exactly how it should be done, but for me it was a 10 min job with a lift and hold.

Here's a pic of mine which may be similar to yours.....

 

[nigelmercier]

When putting it back on, dont forget to bend the tabs on the locking ring back...

And if you don't have tabs, make sure you use Loctite on the cone bolt.

Someone will be along in a minute and say you should buy a new one, because they have epoxy putty on them. All the VP ones I have bought recently have had Loctite.

 

[Fishtigua]

On the big old fishing boats, removing a prop in the water was a bit brutal. A dab of gelignite and a cap blew the bloody thing off the shaft!

Try that in your local marina.

 

[Neeves]

If its a folding prop its the same principal but slightly more complex, just more pieces, 20+. Folding the tabs back, necessary, but if its the same as on our 3 bladed Volvo folding, the tabs (its a stainless steel tabbed, lock washer) work harden and easily snap. But there are multiple tabs, maybe you can use an unbent one when you put it back, but they cost peanuts (well a lot for what they are but in the grand scheme of things not much). Maybe buy a new one. The new Volvo saildrives have a split anode, between prop bush and saildrive, ours is still the old style that needs the whole lot off. Its not difficult, regrease the splines when you put it back together - and it will come off easily next time. Again if its a folding prop you will need a monster socket to get the holding nuts off, there's a small one on the outside of the shaft, then the tab washer, then the monster nut. and the 2 nuts are set inside the prop, which is why you need the socket, I think ours is 32mm.

Jonathan