Removing and replacing halyards from horizontal mast.

davidpbo

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The probably 27 yr old halyards on our 10m mast could at least do with a wash. Might get replaced once out.

Has anyone moused, removed and replaced halyards with the mast horizontal? I think I have: Main, gib, spinnaker and spinnaker pole lift.

Are they more likely the get tangled with the mast horizontal as they go back in? I think not. Only two cables to mast head and aerial, pretty sure those are in conduit.

What size rope would you mouse with?
 
Could be a bit tricky to install new halyards in a horizontal mast with nothing already there, but with existing lines in place it should be easy.

I wouldn't pull in separate mousing lines, simply attach the new halyards directly to the old and pull them through. The constant diameter makes it even less likely that something will get stuck. I would attach them end-to-end using several stitches of thin whipping twine or strong sail thread, then smooth the joint with a sparing amount of PVC tape.

If the new lines are attached to the old lines they will follow the same route and it should be impossible for them to get tangled.

I did exactly this with Ariam's mast on trestles a few years ago, no problem at all.

Pete
 
I do this at the end of each season with a mast of a similar length and use 4mm mousing lines which I simply tape to each halyard - never had any problem!
 
The probably 27 yr old halyards on our 10m mast could at least do with a wash. Might get replaced once out.

Has anyone moused, removed and replaced halyards with the mast horizontal? I think I have: Main, gib, spinnaker and spinnaker pole lift.
Are they more likely the get tangled with the mast horizontal as they go back in? I think not. Only two cables to mast head and aerial, pretty sure those are in conduit.

What size rope would you mouse with?

Moused a Trapper 10mtr mast for main & jib. The cables live in seperate bits of the extrusion either side of the luff groove.
Just set each one up tight as you do it, so no chance of tangles. Also used an electrician's nylon threader for fresh cable, as no masthead light on this one + new VHF cable.
Used some stuff called tuna line, woven polyprop. Bit under 2mm diameter.
 
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No problem if you use mousing lines; if the present halyards are not tangled, neither will be the mousing lines because they will follow the same path. Check the new halyards against the old so that you are 100% sure about the lengths.
Once your mast is down, take the opportunity to service the sheaves at the masthead; if there is any sign of excessive play, wear at the sides or grooving, now is the time to replace them.
While you are at it, check anything that is fixed to the mast, like spreader bases, tangs, cranes, aerial, lights, exit boxes, etc.
 
Take care when using thin mousing lines, that the line doesn't get caught between the sheave and the sheave box. If this happens when the mast is up it's obviously much more of a problem, but it can be time consuming even when the mast is down, generally involving bits of bent wire in attempts to extricate the mousing line, when it gets jammed in the gap.
Having had this problem several times over the years I now use 4mm blue polyprop. It's very cheap and easy to get hold of, and is too big the get jammed in the gap.
I have lenghts made-up and labeled for the main, genoa and spinnaker halyards which I use every year.
I also found it useful to stitch loops in the ends of the halyard to give a strong and easy way to attach the mousing lines.
 
I use cheap 3 strand rope, about 6mm, from the pound shop for mousing, after issues with the thin stuff getting chafed or trapped.
I sew it end to end and tape over.
 
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