Removing 14 year old sapele veneer?

nigelmercier

nigelmercier

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nigelmercier said:
I'm going to move the VHF to where the stereo is, and put in a blanking plate to balance it on the left, up to the edge of the switch panel. However, below and to the left of the switch panel there will be some gaps, so I may attempt to re-veneer the entire left side...
Click to expand...
See above thread for picture.

Further to this, I've bought enough sapele veneer to do the whole panel if necessary. I will need to patch the panel, and ideally remove the existing veneer. I'm assuming I can pop out the veneered centre of the door, I managed it in my cabin by falling against it :)

Any thoughts on the best way to do this? I have a 50mm wide belt sander, would this do it?
 
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Not sure I would like to tackle that job. The veneered panel is set in the frame and the surface is below the level of the frame, so just sanding would not work as you will need to take off the thickness of your new veneer evenly over the whole panel. Equally not sure that you could take the panel out without damaging the frame. If you could then planing off the old and reveneering, putting in a graving piece from behind to fill your unwanted hole might work.
 
I think I have understood it.

You say you can remove the panel completely (with luck), bung up the oversize holes and then veneer over the lot?


With the repaired panel on the bench I would just sand it flat and leave the existing veneer in place - ish - as long as the whole lot is brought down level and the veneer is not lifting you should be ok. One of the few times you can use a belt sander with veneer is when you don't care if you go through it

There is a very small area to veneer but it is irregular and difficult to pull down using cramps and cauls (shaped packing pieces). If you have access to fancy woodworking gear you are in clover. Failing that I have done similar work using PVA glue and ironing the veneer on. All you need for that is a little care, a damp rag, and a steady nerve to liberate the domestic flat iron.
 
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If you are lucky you may be able to remove the old veneer by applying some heat. It's at least worth trying, but the odds are against it. Whatever you do don't try the belt sander; you'll end up with an undulating surface which will look horrible when you re-veneer it.
If you must remove the veneer and have access to a router then a series of passes with the router, leaving "lands" to maintain the correct depth can do it. Once you've got the bulk of the veneer off use some spacers to raise the router, reset the depth of cut and remove the "lands". Finish off with sandpaper. Hard to explain and what I've written may make no sense!

It might be easier to make a new panel.
 
Unless the old veneer is poorly attached, just sand smooth with a palm sander and say 320 grit and re-veneer. The veneers are so thin that I'd doubt you would notice the difference. You can always use an epoxy filled with micro-balloons to fill any irregularities.
 
Mavanier said:
Have you seen the Esper refit videos? They removed a LOT of veneer...
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Got a link?

doug748 said:
... Failing that I have done similar work using PVA glue and ironing the veneer on. All you need for that is a little care, a damp rag, and a steady nerve to liberate the domestic flat iron.
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I've got a collection of old irons that I can use :)

I would like to try this, but nervous that the PVA will cause the veneer to warp. I've seen some sheets of iron-on hot-melt glue for this job, any thoughts?
 
nigelmercier said:
....

I've got a collection of old irons that I can use :)

I would like to try this, but nervous that the PVA will cause the veneer to warp. I've seen some sheets of iron-on hot-melt glue for this job, any thoughts?
Click to expand...


Are they sheets of loose adhesive to be used with your chosen veneer? If so I have not seen them, it sounds a very good idea; and I would be temped to give them a go.

With he PVA method you must make sure both surfaces have glue but it should not be excessive. It will cockle the veneer to a certain extent but you need to persevere and most of the bubbles will go down, with heat and pressure. It is not a quick scoot over and job done, you have to keep at it. If you do end up with a bubble it is not a disaster, you can split it later with a scalpel and introduce a little extra glue, then iron it down. Use a quality PVA for woodworking, some of the cheap tubs are really for building work etc.

Good luck either way.
 
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