Remove the soldering

[darrenmark]

Hi, enjoyed the detailed explanation above on brazing. I have a question going in the reverse direction. How do you unsolder or unbraze a silver-soldered joint between stainless steel and brass without destroying optical components housed within?

 

[Giblets]

Errrmmmm - very carefully! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

(Sorry /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif , I don't know)

 

[Tugw]

Did i miss something? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[material_girl]

You can use a solder sucker for small electrcial components but somehow I don't think that's going to help you. What is it you are trying to desolder?

 

[[2068]]

I think the answer might be along the lines of "with a hacksaw" and "very carefully".

A solder sucker isn't going to de-solder a large circular joint.

The other option is "lots of heat" (e.g. blowtorch), but that's going to cook whatever is inside.

dv.

 

[ShipsWoofy]

Difficult to suggest as I am not entirely sure what components you are trying to unsolder. But as you suggest silver solder rather than brazing, I can only assume that you are talking small?

A solder pump is ok, but best for small amounts of solder on a circuit board that are surrounding the legs of components. For more confused soldering, such as coax pins and the like, the usual method is solder wick.

You can buy it on the roll at Maplins, usually with all the soldering irons and tips by the trade counters.

The idea is to wick away the solder. Wick is like coax screen, you first get the solder in the joint hot, then place on the wick.. put the iron on top of the wick and heat up the solder through the wick. You may need to add a little fresh solder to help the heat transfer.

When the solder underneath the wick begins to melt it will flow into the wick, keep moving the wick as it fills with solder. If you have real concerns about heat damage to components further along the line, you can use heat sinks to take heat away either side of the joint you are trying to remove.

Or you could remove the sensitive components prior to breaking the joint?

Some more detail might help us.



Click image for link

hope this helps

 

[pampas]

Silver solder and brazing require far more heat to melt than apply. So I do not think you will stop heat damage to other components.

 

[seaplane]

I did a quick search on silver-solder and discovered that, depending on its composition, silver-solder melts at anything between 580 and 870 C. So, as others have said, very carefully!

 

[thefatlady]

If it really is silver solder, forget about solder suckers and wicks. You'll need to get it red-hot to make it flow. You'll melt the sucker! Also forget about soldering irons - you'll need a blowlamp with sufficient capacity, depending on the size of the job.

Questions:
How was the assembly assembled?
If it was soldered last, I guess you could try de-soldering, with care. Silver solder flows beautifully. Get the solder to flow and ease the components apart.
If it was screwed, swaged, peened, etc, you will have to take it apart the same way. Since it's optical, is it cylindrical and can it be machined apart? Then it's a lathe job.

However, so far we know nothing about the job or you and your capability.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Good luck!

 

[misterg]

The 'optical components' will have been put in after the assembly was soldered/brazed, so take them out before trying to un-solder/braze.

Andy

 

[alexander6706]

I don't know the answer to your question but I want to make a guess. Are you want information about brazing so you can go my link Induction Brazing thanks