removal of the hub from the sail drive

[sailingrbg]

I have after what I consider a great achievement been able to remove my two blade folding prop from my sail drive( first time). After removing the two allen screws on the propellor and knocking out both the large securing pins I am now having trouble removing the Sail Drive hub can some of the more learned gentleman please advise if this should pull straight off ?
i) is the purpose of the hub to transfer the rotaion from the gear box shaft onto the propeller?,

ii)is there any moving parts within the hub?

iii)I assume that forward or reverse gear does not need to be engaged to remove the hub?)

I have managed to get the hub to move slightly and have applied some penetrating oil but it does not want to budge even with a little heat from a hot air gun, perhaps I need a "puller"?

can anyone advise where to purchase one and roughly how much it would cost?

Any advise on how to get the hub off.

Also i assume that when it is removed should underwater grease be applied to the internal part of the hub any suggestions

Additionally can anyone advise where I could get a handbook on the volvo sail drive S110

Sorry for so many question but still in the learning process. Any help greatlfully recieved

 

[savageseadog]

You didn't mention undoing the big nut in the middle did you ?

 

[2Tizwoz]

The operators manual for the MD7B is available on the Volvo Penta website It shows a good breakdown picture of the propeller and where to grease it. For free /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[cookjwm]

Look carefully in side the opening you can see in the centre of the hub -exposed after removing the blades. There is (if its same as mine!) an allen screw which locks everything in place and a 22mm(I think) nut . May even be another locking device as well -memory failing. Once all undone should come off ok

 

[dod]

Remember to take the split pin out before trying to undo the nut. Once nut is off the prop should just pull straight off the splined shaft. Perhaps using 'the gentle persuader' will be necessary if it has not been off for a long time. (Tap gently mind)

 

[bigwow]

There is no split pin, as advised in earlier post, just a large nut secured with either a grub screw or a tab washer. Was the anode, behind the prop, completely eroded away? If so the centre bush, the splined bit, will have corroded, you will see it when the nut is off. If this is the case you will need a heavy duty hub puller to get the prop boss off the shaft.

 

[Dipper]

I have a 120 saildrive so I'm not sure if it is the same as yours. I also had trouble one year removing the hub as it had stuck on the shaft. Assuming you have removed the nut and/or grub screws as necessary, it should just pull off.

My hub consists of the outer visible section and an inner section with the splined hole. These are bonded together with a thick rubber bush to absorb any sudden shocks to the propeller.

A friend made me a very simple puller consisting of a large bolt (with a pointy end) with a thick rectangular plate which has a thread tapped into the middle so that it can screw onto the bolt. The plate is long and wide enough to fit closely between the gaps normally occupied by the propeller blades. The pointy bit of the bolt is held up to the end of the shaft with the plate resting on the gaps in the hub. The propeller blade pins are then replaced outside of the plate and the bolt screwed in. As the bolt screws in, the plate pushes against the pins and forces the hub off the shaft. In my case, the outer hub came quite a way back before the tension via the rubber pulled the inner piece off the shaft which was slightly disconcerting!

If you want, you can PM me your email address and I will send a picture of the puller.

 

[dod]

Yes there is one on the drives I have worked on but no matter I think he will get the idea of what to do if he doesn't spend too much time looking for bits he doesn't have.

 

[PeterGibbs]

To add to this post: if the anode is more than half decayed, time indeed to chuck it and replace. But the two screws holding the anular anode are S/S and can become locked into place. This is the testing bit, where you can do serious damage. These screws must be persuaded out. Under no circumstances uses percussive force or drilling out or you risk the bottom structure of the S leg - heavy expense.

PWG

 

[Stork_III]

On my VP 120S leg, the hub is locked with a large circular boss with shaped nut casting, 15/16" socket required, locked in place with concentric set screw and tab washer.

Usually need to put tommy bar through blade gudgeon pin holes to get purchase for removal of boss. Once all off, if the hub doesn't slide off easily there is something amiss with inner splined hub.

I have a PDF exploded view of saildrive props with fixings clearly visible, PM me with Email address if required.

 

[sailingrbg]

Thanks to all who have posted,

I have remove the split pin and the locking nut ( which was quite difficult to remove from the hub as it is captured in the hub assemble but was able to angle this off), there is a stianless steel washer behind where the locking nut was but will be unable to take this off until the hub is removed,

Generally is there another allen screw within the end of the drive rod ? will have a look at this at the weekend but did not notice it.

Assuming there is no additional allen screw am i correct in assuming that at this stage the hub should just pull off.

If i every get to the next stage of putting it all back together
is there a possiblity that the propellor could be put on too far towards the anode or is the shaft tappered so it will only go on so far?

Should the locking nut holding on the Hub / propellor be tightened with a tourque wrench or should it be possible to tighten everything up until it is firm?

What items should generally be replaced if any?
I notice that there is an indentation in the propeller locking pins where the securing allen screws have made contact I take it the pins can be reused all be it the indentaions will not match up again

Many Thanks again

 

[dod]

It should pull or be persuaded off now. The indendations on the securing pins are where the ends of the lock screws fit into. (important to position them so when reassembling).
You cannot push it on too far and when you tighten the lock nut (try and get a long socket it will make life easier) do so until you can insert the split pin in the hole at the end of the shaft and no more. Only replace items that will impair the correct operation of the prop and blades. Otherwise clean all and grease well.
That should about do it and allow you to get on with the other jobs you are sure to find. Good luck.