remote kill switch for motor good idea or not ?

steveinnice

steveinnice

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I intend to solo sail a fair bit and one idea I have is to fit a remote control unit on to the shut down solenoid on the motor and the autopilot. I'd keep the button unit in a waterproof bag on my lifejacket . The idea been that if I fall overboard ,even if I'm tied on, I will be able to disable the yacht and get back on a lot easier. good idea or not. ?
 
Funny, I've been thinking about something like this, and thought a proximity sensor might be a better idea, in case boom met cranium? Not gone into any research, but they certainly exist (think modern car keys)
 
KevinV said:
Funny, I've been thinking about something like this, and thought a proximity sensor might be a better idea, in case boom met cranium? Not gone into any research, but they certainly exist (think modern car keys)
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Yep you can get them as after market. I was going to try simple system first then add on proximity sensor if it worked. Jetskis circle till you get back on so why not yachts? Seems logical to me, an older novice sailor.
 
If your boat is of a size or speed where falling out is a realistic probability then I'd say it's essential. Or if it's a sailing yacht where you'd need to leave the helm to tend to something. Most Mobo's after a certain size would have to capsize to eject you from the helm chair and the motors then have a tilt switch to disable them.
 
Boathook said:
The thought of a motorboat going in circles at tickover speed doesn't sound safe.
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No, The motor would be off I just used the example of a jet ski to illustrate . I figure if I end up in the water on my own, a boat floating around would be far preferable to seeing one slowly disappearing over the horizon. My boat is a motorsailer and as I'm a novice a lot of the time it will be under power, that's why I posted it under this forum , you guys would have more knowledge of motors that sailors
 
I setup a start stop remote on my old rlm31 mainly for inland locks where I liked to keep it running till secured then had to go back down a ladder to turn it off, used cheaply fleabay keyfob remote with 4 buttons, port start / port stop / USB start / USB stop.
Did the preheat timer as well depending on engine temp, they were automotive Peugeot engines though.
Worked well and cost very little.
Could be smug as hell moored outside a pub as the engines fired up as you approached being an old 1970's boat.
 
Hmm... I did design and prototype such a system a few years ago (with encouragement from "Fisherman" of this parish). After a bit of searching I found there were already 2/3 systems on the market - although I don't think they quite hit the spot, there didn't seem to be much point in getting it to production!

But if anyone's interested, I could be persuaded to blow the cobwebs off the designs!
 
mikefleetwood said:
Hmm... I did design and prototype such a system a few years ago (with encouragement from "Fisherman" of this parish). After a bit of searching I found there were already 2/3 systems on the market - although I don't think they quite hit the spot, there didn't seem to be much point in getting it to production!

But if anyone's interested, I could be persuaded to blow the cobwebs off the designs!
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1639690947113.png1639691059510.png1639691159049.pngThis is what I'm going to use. Red button to stop normally / remote if I'm away from the helm or overboard! if it works I'll upgrade to a proximity sensor wired
to activate if I'm 20 mts away from the helm. total cost 30€
 
What is wrong with a "kill cord" ? Move too far away from the throttle lever and a mechanical switch is activated.

After saying that, Volvo Penta outdrive equipped petrol engined American boats have them in the UK, yet the same boat, with a more powerful diesel engine does not. What is the sense and justification of that ?
 
GrahamHR said:
What is wrong with a "kill cord" ? Move too far away from the throttle lever and a mechanical switch is activated.

After saying that, Volvo Penta outdrive equipped petrol engined American boats have them in the UK, yet the same boat, with a more powerful diesel engine does not. What is the sense and justification of that ?
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In my situation a kill cord will work on a tender but this is for a motorsailer the cord would have to be about 20 Mt long.
 
GrahamHR said:
What is wrong with a "kill cord" ? Move too far away from the throttle lever and a mechanical switch is activated.

After saying that, Volvo Penta outdrive equipped petrol engined American boats have them in the UK, yet the same boat, with a more powerful diesel engine does not. What is the sense and justification of that ?
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The problem with a physical kill cord is docking or picking up a mooring, particularly on your own and with a lot of wind or tide. You need to be moving around the boat in a hurry and ideally with the engine running. If it goes wrong and you are drifting fast into, say, other boats then the time it takes to refit the kill cord to restart and engine or to re attach it to yourself could be all the time it takes to get into an awkward situation.
I really like the idea of the remote switches.
 
steveinnice said:
View attachment 127329View attachment 127333View attachment 127341This is what I'm going to use. Red button to stop normally / remote if I'm away from the helm or overboard! if it works I'll upgrade to a proximity sensor wired
to activate if I'm 20 mts away from the helm. total cost 30€
Click to expand...

Those do not look waterproof tbh. Also check them from the dinghy while holding them close to the water. You may well be surprised at the range reduction. I would much prefer something that stayed onboard with a proximity sensor. The absence of which would deactivate the engine. I also would be very cautious of cheap goods in as much you dont want the system to shut you down simply because it's cheap and unreliable/ unsuitable for it's designated marine purpose. (i.e. many of those fobs are pretty universal and are not very select when it comes to channel / band / security. My doorbell went off every time the neighbour opened his garage. Drove me nuts until I identified the issue.
 
BruceK said:
Those do not look waterproof tbh. Also check them from the dinghy while holding them close to the water. You may well be surprised at the range reduction. I would much prefer something that stayed onboard with a proximity sensor. The absence of which would deactivate the engine. I also would be very cautious of cheap goods in as much you dont want the system to shut you down simply because it's cheap and unreliable/ unsuitable for it's designated marine purpose. (i.e. many of those fobs are pretty universal and are not very select when it comes to channel / band / security. My doorbell went off every time the neighbour opened his garage. Drove me nuts until I identified the issue.
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The only thing that needs to be waterproof would be the fob. I would have it in a waterproof pouch on my lifejacket. the others (button, receiver and solenoid) don't need to be waterproof as wont be exposed at all. I have several of the buttons for other things on the boat. a proximity sensor system seems the way to go but its a work in progress atm. This idea is primarily for when I'm offshore and something happens that I end up overboard . I have a harness but it would be far easier to disable the boat, unclip myself and swim to the boarding ladder. than try to drag myself up the side. I take on board the range issue and I'll look at placement of the receiver. Might install it a few feet up the mast if range is compromised .
 
Two thoughts: A corded kill switch is perfect for jetski or other PWC or sportboat where all you have to do is drive it - but if you have to do anything else that takes you away from the immediate helm position (say deal with fishing gear, examine a chart or handle some other essential activity). RF systems can offer the same fail-safe ability, but with a longer defined range - without demanding the user presses a button to activate it.

I don't know if the system mentioned works that way (mine has both range-based fail-safe and panic button - but I couldn't even buy the parts for £30!)
 
mikefleetwood said:
Two thoughts: A corded kill switch is perfect for jetski or other PWC or sportboat where all you have to do is drive it - but if you have to do anything else that takes you away from the immediate helm position (say deal with fishing gear, examine a chart or handle some other essential activity). RF systems can offer the same fail-safe ability, but with a longer defined range - without demanding the user presses a button to activate it.

I don't know if the system mentioned works that way (mine has both range-based fail-safe and panic button - but I couldn't even buy the parts for £30!)
Click to expand...
Yep press the red button to shut down the motor. The relay would be in the circuit so it would be either it or the button to stop it. If I went to the range based system the parts would be dearer. As stated before a solo sailor far out at sea falling / knocked overboard is the scenario I envisioned. You don't need to be Edison to knock one up. Still if you put it in a yellow box and write "marine and safety" on it you'll get €300 for it. ????
 
?I wish!
steveinnice said:
Yep press the red button to shut down the motor. The relay would be in the circuit so it would be either it or the button to stop it. If I went to the range based system the parts would be dearer. As stated before a solo sailor far out at sea falling / knocked overboard is the scenario I envisioned. You don't need to be Edison to knock one up. Still if you put it in a yellow box and write "marine and safety" on it you'll get €300 for it. ????
Click to expand...
 
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