Refit question - Headlining

[Swanrad2]

OK- we have a Centaur, the headlining is off and the glue is gone (except for some yellow staining in the depressions in the moulding). We have decided to go with ply panels, covered with padded leatherette and velcro'd to the deck head.

The vertical surfaces are going to be clad n wood in one of two ways:

1. Thin battens of hardwood 45mm wide and 10mm thick screwed into battens (expensive and time consuming) or
2. Plywood template with 50mm teak veneer (is the iron on glue variety OK?) with small gaps between to be 'filled' with a black Sikaflex type substance that I using for a repair on the keel.

The reasons we are doing this is because if any part of this job is going to look a bit rough it will be the join between the panels. Having verticals with slatted battens should allow us to tuck the panels behind the woodwork more easily.

Any questions as to whether option 2 will look good and be hard wearing? It will certainly be cheaper and easier.

 

[chewi]

Yes to the plywood panels with headlining glued on, and folded around the edges , but make them thin so they bow where you want them to.

Araldite a 10mm wood batten to the ceiling so you can screw them in place, velcro will keep falling off. esp. with curved panels.
The battens don't have to be on the centreline. If you make 2 or 3 panels across the beam. than you dont lose headroom.

Add a 10mm thick frame to the top edges of the bulkheads, then you can tuck the ceiling panels behind that, you don't need to face the whole bulkhead to achieve that.

If you really have to face the bulkhead anyway, do it in some sheet material (eg thin decorative ply, formica or headlining) ,
You'll get a consistency with that that you won't with your wood trim, which will be heavy, expensive and risky to achieve.

 

[Swanrad2]

I did think of a wooden batten running along the outside edges with rebates to accept the ply panels. Thanks.

Any thoughts on the teak veneer/iron on teak veneer with beads of black sealant between strips to give the impression of hardwood panelling. Although time consuming, this can be done at home.

 

[chewi]

I did think of a wooden batten running along the outside edges with rebates to accept the ply panels. Thanks.

Any thoughts on the teak veneer/iron on teak veneer with beads of black sealant between strips to give the impression of hardwood panelling. Although time consuming, this can be done at home.

That strikes me as risky and very messy. It will be be difficult to keep all the strips parallel and equal spacing, and the sealant could ruin it afterwards.
Thin laminate flloring might be easier if you must do it that way.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Centaur with wood cladding interior.

Here is some pics of a Centaur which was up for sale some years ago which had been lined with ply, ~asking price was £20,000

 

[theguerns]

View attachment 36452On our Colvic Watson 32 we were fed up with the head linings looking ****. So I removed them all and cut new ply panels to fit. Then I covered them with 5mm cork. When replacing the panels I covered the joints with strips of teak. We have now found that the boat is alot warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. We applied 3 coats of Ronseal quick drying satin varnish to the cork which makes them all easy to clean. The cost was alot less than if we had used the vinyl.

 

[Twister_Ken]

If you want to do a proper job, check this out (total refurb of a Fisher motorsailer). Wade through it all if you have time and want to gasp in appreciation, otherwise the bit on panelling the interior is in Phase 3, I think.

http://www.fisher30.lackeysailing.com/project.html

A picture of w-i-p.

 

[Swanrad2]

Wow - just reading about the Fisher refit leaves me knackered! Puts our piddling project in context.