reefing without using the cringle at the tack?

jaminb

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If I don’t get the tack tight the boom is dragging over the spray hood. If the spray hood was folded down the boom would be in the cockpit !
 

Spirit (of Glenans)

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You really need to find a way to heave to or stop the boat. And rig a line and block to secure the tack from the cockpit within tiller reach. From one bulls horn, through the reefing tack and back via the other horn or mast base. Don't ask how I know but being on deck on a small boat in reefing weather as it does an uncontrolled gybe is over exciting.

I used to set the helm slightly to leeward held with bungees, ease the jib, let the main flap but it wasn't foolproof.

Strangely a larger (long keel) yacht is much easier despite the larger sails, even without autopilot.
Heaving to is foolproof, no unintended gybes guaranteed.
 

lustyd

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Surprised it’s not a roller boom on that given the age and size. Worth checking at the gooseneck in case it was converted.
 

PhillM

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Surprised it’s not a roller boom on that given the age and size. Worth checking at the gooseneck in case it was converted.
No sign of roller reefing at the gooseneck. Looks like it may have been converted some time ago, if indeed it had it at all.
 

steveeasy

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well unless a boat is fully set up to reef from the cockpit best forget it. It’s hard enough for me at the mast.

Thinking about it last night I’d like to run the main sheet to the mast so I can let it off to get the reef set properly. Go one step further and run a line from the tiller and set it up so you can helm from the mast. Might be easier than trying to reef from the cockpit.

Steveeasy
 

Stemar

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The big difference between reefing from the cockpit and the mast, especially on a small boat is safety. Standing on the cabin, well above the waterline while the boat's leaping around is an over-rated experience. ISTM that you'd need both hands (clipped on goes without saying, or should) to handle the reefing lines and cringles, so there's no way you could manage a steering line, nor have the brain space for it.

Setting up to reef from the cockpit isn't that difficult on most boats. If the boom isn't the right type for running the lines through it, run them along the side of the boom. On my Snapdragon 24, I had an eye riveted to one side of the boom, to which I tied the reefing line. It then went up through the leech cringle and down to a cheek block on the other side, then forward to another block at the gooseneck, through a block at the luff cringle (reduces friction enormously) and down to a block at the foot of the mast, than aft to a clutch.
9726764.jpg

Repeat for reef two on the other side. You'll also want the topping lift, mainsheet and maybe a light main downhaul. I had the space, so my kicker came aft as well. It's a lot of kit, but, while clutches do make life a lot easier, on a small boat, they are expensive, so I reckon you could get away with cam cleats. OTOH, it's well worth the money to get decent, ball bearing, blocks to reduce friction as much as possible. I never needed a winch for reefing.
 
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AntarcticPilot

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It's worth bearing in mind that on some boats (my Moody 31 in particular!) any pressure in the mainsail will make it very difficult or even impossible to lower the main. This is despite the liberal use of lubricating spray. Almost any raising or lowering of the main has to be done head to wind. Raising is even worse than lowering, as the battens catch in the lower shrouds if not head to wind!
 

steveeasy

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The big difference between reefing from the cockpit and the mast, especially on a small boat is safety. Standing on the cabin, well above the waterline while the boat's leaping around is an over-rated experience. ISTM that you'd need both hands (clipped on goes without saying, or should) to handle the reefing lines and cringles, so there's no way you could manage a steering line, nor have the brain space for it.

Setting up to reef from the cockpit isn't that difficult on most boats. If the boom isn't the right type for running the lines through it, run them along the side of the boom. On my Snapdragon 24, I had an eye riveted to one side of the boom, to which I tied the reefing line. It then went up through the leech cringle and down to a cheek block on the other side, then forward to another block at the gooseneck, through a block at the luff cringle (reduces friction enormously) and down to a block at the foot of the mast, than aft to a clutch.
9726764.jpg

Repeat for reef two on the other side. You'll also want the topping lift, mainsheet and maybe a light main downhaul. I had the space, so my kicker came aft as well. It's a lot of kit, but, while clutches do make life a lot easier, on a small boat, they are expensive, so I reckon you could get away with cam cleats. OTOH, it's well worth the money to get decent, ball bearing, blocks to reduce friction as much as possible. I never needed a winch for reefing.

I suspect you’d need a winch to tighten the luff of the main though or not. It’s a very wise idea if your becoming not quite so brave getting thrown arround. I find myself on my knees clutching a large cleat most of the time.

Not sure a composite twister coachroof would accommodate a winch. Mind you a nice electric winch would be great for putting the main up. Got me thinking now.

Steveeasy
 
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Poignard

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I suspect you’d need a winch to tighten the leech of the main though or not. It’s a very wise idea if your becoming not quite so brave getting thrown arround. I find myself on my knees clutching a large cleat most of the time.

Not sure a composite twister coachroof would accommodate a winch. Mind you a nice electric winch would be great for putting the main up. Got me thinking now.

Steveeasy
A winch on the plywood coachroof of a 50+ years old Twister would most likely result in a large hole in said coachroof, and a winch attached to a piece of plywood dangling half-way up the mast.
 

Daedelus

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Spirit (of Glenans) is right - myself and crew ripped a sail like that, but we had all lines in, just not tight enough.
 

Stemar

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A winch on the plywood coachroof of a 50+ years old Twister would most likely result in a large hole in said coachroof, and a winch attached to a piece of plywood dangling half-way up the mast.
There's nothing to stop you reinforcing the ply. Doubling the thickness for a foot all round should be more than enough. A Snapdragon24's a bit smaller, but I adapted the mast mounting to attach the winch to the coachroof with six bolts and penny washers, and it was fine.
 

Poignard

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There's nothing to stop you reinforcing the ply. Doubling the thickness for a foot all round should be more than enough. A Snapdragon24's a bit smaller, but I adapted the mast mounting to attach the winch to the coachroof with six bolts and penny washers, and it was fine.
I wasn't, of course, being serious in my post #34. Sorry, I should have added a smiley.

If the coachroof was that weak you'd probably fall through it if you stood on it!

You are, of course, quite right about how easy it would be to reinforce the coachroof with a piece of ply.
 

Stemar

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I wasn't, of course, being serious in my post #34. Sorry, I should have added a smiley.

If the coachroof was that weak you'd probably fall through it if you stood on it!

You are, of course, quite right about how easy it would be to reinforce the coachroof with a piece of ply.
All the same, I've seen a few plywood boats where the winch halfway up the mast would be a likely outcome. :eek:

The best fix for most of them would involve a gallon of paraffin and a box of matches...
 

steveeasy

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I was quite keen on the idea a few years ago. At that time I had no hesitation standing on the coachroof being flung around.

If I’m honest I did the RTIR unofficially this year but left a double reef in all the way round when it should have come out.

New hips are booked for this summer and I find it difficult moving on deck. What luxury putting a reef in from the cockpit. Add to that a nice shiny winch in chrome and it’s a no brainier.

Steveeasy
 
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