vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
The tack and clew are pulled down exactly as required in the correct order. With a single line they are reversed.
Reef, single line
- Thread starter PabloPicasso
- Start date
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
The number of blocks is exactly the same. Mine are ball blocks in which friction is almost zero.
flaming
Well-Known Member
What? That's completely against my experience of a lot of sailing with the single line reefing system described above.
Our procedure went - sheet ease, kicker ease, halyard ease to mark, pull/wind on reef pennant, kicker on, sheet on.
When you pulled the pennant the tack was tensioned first, until the halyard was stopping the block on the luff from descending any further, and only then did the bulk of the clew end get tensioned.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
So what are those wheels inside the boom?
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
I'm with Vyv on this one... and it's the way Selden set up my Moody S38 from new..
With the sliding car within the boom, the clew gets tensioned in perfect unison with the tack..
In a previous boat with a single line, the tack would always get pulled down to the gooseneck first and then the line was often at risk of chafing (the sail) as the reefing line was further pulled to tension the clew end.
The clew was always then more difficult to tension because the line was passing through the tack end of the reef...
With the sliding car within the boom, the clew gets tensioned in perfect unison with the tack..
In a previous boat with a single line, the tack would always get pulled down to the gooseneck first and then the line was often at risk of chafing (the sail) as the reefing line was further pulled to tension the clew end.
The clew was always then more difficult to tension because the line was passing through the tack end of the reef...
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
Cods wallop
One just controls the halyard tension as the sail falls & the clew comes in at whatever speed one wants.
One mistake with any single line car, or otherwise, is to just let the halyard fall in one lump as it can lead to a twist & jam in itself or the sail.
The drop needs to be controlled.
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
Like like the Selden way gives even more priority (by way of mechanical advantage) to the clew end...
https://support.seldenmast.com/files/595-706-E.pdf
https://support.seldenmast.com/files/595-706-E.pdf
flaming
Well-Known Member
Again, this is completely counter to my experience with that system.
The key thing with it was to mark the halyard, so that you could just ease to that point, and then the block on the luff would be in the right place for a nice clean run.
flaming
Well-Known Member
Don't agree with that. We used to just bang off the halyard to the mark, then get on with pulling in the reefing line. Don't recall any issues.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
The reef line always passes to the tack end of the sail through a block on the tack (rather than through the cringle which is wrong)on single line, Car or no car.
You must have a different system if the same line system that pulls the clew does not pull the luff down as well
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
I did have halyards marked... but it was still a bit of a wiggly path for the reefing line to pass up and through the reef eye by the mast, then back into the boom, before exiting at the aft end of the boom.
Also, as Vyv says.. This works for reefs 1 and 2... The third reef needs a separate line for each end of the reef..
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
I always leave a turn round the winch with the clutch open & winch the sail down. It tends to fall on its own but slower If I want a bit more on the clew I shut the clutch for a second. This picks the clew up. I do not have a mark on the halyard as I cannot see it in the dark. I have a reflective band on the mast I can see that at night better ) also I am looking up at the sail anyway ( It just suits me & I can see progress better)& drop the batten to just above the mark, shut the clutch & harden everything up so it stretches the sail with the batten level with the mark
flaming
Well-Known Member
We had 3 reefs on the single line. resulted in an absurdly long reef 3 though.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
Yes my 3rd reef is a 2 line system as I only need it every few years & it is bullet proof & can be doubled up on any other reef if I get a problem Seems pointless having to put a 3rd reef line away every time I adjust the sail
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
If it works for you that is the way to go
Bit like vyv-cox's system really
But not for me
flaming
Well-Known Member
In general I'm not a fan of systems, especially sail handling systems, that need careful babysitting in order to avoid snags etc. Time spent working out how to de-snag them by design is normally time well spent. Especially reefing systems as when you need them you are already into conditions where performing "out of the ordinary" tasks such as reaching up to untangle a reefing line for example, are putting you at a heightened risk. Better to "design out" such risks if at all possible.
This is something we do a lot of racing, finding ways of eliminating the snags we encounter. Most of them are performance related but the same principal applies.
Chiara’s slave
Well-Known Member
We’ve tried both ways, having the same simple setup. Controlling the drop just takes longer and is harder work for us. But I guess, as you say, it may vary from boat to boat and crew to crew. I can’t see the need for a more complex system though.
bitbaltic
Well-Known Member
Yes ours is set up like that and works absolutely fine. There is a whipping on each reef line (and three on the main halyard) which, when aft of the clutch, represents maximum tension. All colour coded. Makes it easy to see when the reef is in and roughly how it is set.
